89CAL

This is why mine are black but each to their own I guess This is the Boost Junkies site, they sell lime green silicone hoses, not sure if they have what your after but anyway

I bought a kit from just jap but it was missing some of the heater hoses. Had to get them from the UK. Boost junkies i think they were called. Did lots of different colours from memory though

Try an auto electrical wholesaler etc like ashdown ingram etc. Would be your best bet Otherwise genuine nissan would be easiest

Id never heard of brisk spark plugs till about a week ago but they look interesting, especially these ones http://www.briskusa.com/brisk_multi_spark_plug Seemed appropriate for this thread, not sure if anyones used them or if they are just a gimmick, but if they are as good as they look then i might try them one day

I think i had to piggyback spanners to crack one of mine. Were rather tight funnily enough

Def rear main seal? Seems odd if it fixed itself on the drive home

sounds like its gone. HICAS Lock bars are only about $100 or so. Easy enough to do at home. Just need a big spanner to undo the steering arms from the HICAS motor so they can be fitted to the lock bar. Make sure you get a wheel alignment afterwards as your rear toe will be out

My thoughts as well. It needs some sort of vent (usually PCV does this) vent to atmo otherwise

HICAS is detrimental to drifting, it doesnt work like normal 4 wheel steer. My advice is pull the bulb out and put a lock bar in.

There should be only 1 wire from memory off the wheel for the horn. Nothing in the boss kit plugs into HICAS, it locates in a hub that turns (steering angle sensor) which in turn has wires off it. A photo straight on of the hub with the steering wheel off will help and a photo of the boss kit straight on where it sits up against the hub Are there any noticable problems? Heavy power steering etc? May just be that the rear steer isnt working? Honestly you dont miss it when its gone, i was determined to keep mine all working, then one day decided screw it and havent looked back. Car feels fine

The engine ecu does nothing with the HICAS, it has its own ECU Pull the boss kit off and make sure it is installed properly. There is a tank that goes into the boss kit that needs to move perfectly with the wheel. Even a little bit of play there will cause an error. Which steering sensor are you talking about? Im guessing in the sensor/sw check page and looking at the "STR" lighting up when you turn? Its a pressure switch that gives the ECU a feedback when there is pressure in the power steering rack to make sure the engine doesnt drop revs due to the extra load

Yeah there is a bung in there. Will be a sump off job. Or at least i wouldnt do it with the sump on

Could you turn the engine over by hand at all? With spark plugs out even?

Ive priced it through Amayama and it wasnt that bad. Havent actually gone through with the order though

If the dipstick and sump are both out of the 2.8d then fill it as per quote above. The sump is designed to hold 'x' amount of oil and the dipstick will show the correct level You may have issues with high g forces during cornering with the volume of oil seen as patrols arent designed to corner fast, thats why the best option is to go with th 25 sump or baffle it really well

It rests against a stud from memory

I could open the cap but a bunch of air hissed out. Just two lines on the canister wrong This is turning into alot of effort for what the problem is

plugs into the HICAS sensor I thought? Been a while since Ive had mine off

My fuel tank pressurised when I had the lines plumbed up to the carbon canister wrong a while ago. Just as an FYI I'd agree with above, if you arent going to use them, block them

Your horn doesnt work after youve changed steering wheels? Sounds like something wasnt plugged in properly when the wheel was put on. The s2 wheels have air bags (all of them AFAIK, maybe the GTS' dont?) So are you sure you havent hooked something up wrong?

It could be the front seal in the gearbox (i think its actually a gasket around the thrust bearing carrier) but unlikely. My first thought is rear main seal

My spool head drain tees in with the turbo drain. Havent had any issues yet. Checked my catch can the other day and its bone dry. I run a line from the catch can to the intake pipe and a PCV though so different setup.

Freeing up space is a poor excuse IMO. I have everything in my bay (A/C etc) along with aftermarket shit like catch can, bigger turbo, external gate and the carbon canister still easily fits. Granted i have FFP but the return flow cooler kits take up no more room I also run 3" cooler piping and a 4" intake which is bigger then most so im sure you can find the room

Its easier then stopping the car from dropping while its still fueling. The gearbox is electronically controlled, not hard to interlock the gearbox in neutral while the fuel gun is still in the fuel flap

They are 3/4 BSPT on R33 and R34 i think. assume the same on 32