89CAL

Have another look at the drawing he's done Rear blocked, front 1.2mm, VCT feed 2mm N1 pump

There is a wanted to buy spot in the classifieds section

Is there any issues in the sensor/sw check? Look at paulr33's guide for more info but i think they will be highlighted black if there is an issue

FYI: You can get a flasher relay from super cheap or autobarn that is non load dependant and will work with any lights. I have all LED and one of these flashers. Just needed to make an adapter harness from the original plug as the flasher relay base isnt the same

Max psi? 10000000000 Air FLOW meters measure flow not pressure. They can read 'x' amount of flow. Need to know what turbos are being used This is why AFM's are usually talked about in terms of how much power they will handle as air flow is pretty much directly proportional to power. The more air you get in the engine, the more power you can achieve etc etc

A/C compressors are much of a muchness. They do the same job, I certainly wouldnt go out of my way to source a Nissan compressor when an equivelant replacement can be had for 1/3rd of the price Thanks for posting that, hopefully I wont need it but will be a good reference if I ever do

I have a 400cca dry cell motorbike battery, nearly half the size of the standard size battery and does the job fine

Was that shop in brisbane quoting for a replacement comp that was genuine or just one of the well known brands? I think mine might die soon so keen to see what options i have comp wise. Ive quoted oem ones at the same price from Japan. Bit rediculous lol

My pistons are better than yours

Exhaust mani or turbo gasket? Its just a wild guess though. Can you see any exhaust escaping around the manifold or turbo (will see some black marks)?

Is the hole big enough to fit the allen key in there as well to hold the tensioner?

This isn't the for sale section

I would say whatever you can afford. Arp2000's may be a bit overkill but it never hurts to over engineer

Are the pipes clean and oil/grease free (silicone joiners as well)? Wipe them all with wax and grease remover so they can grip well. I havent had any problems with t-bolt clamps and i think one of my pipes doesnt have a bead. Running 23psi

From your detailed description, its hard to say

There is a solenoid in the rack controlled by the HICAS ECU. Ive had power steering issues when me HICAS ECU played up. Replaced it and steering went back to how it should be. I have a Lock bar and I just pulled the bulb out and have had no issues besides the one i mentioned above. But this could have happened with or without HICAS, its a 20 year old car, i expect these things You dont want to lose the power steering assist from the HICAS ECU by just removing it. Its way to heavy at low speeds (parking etc) There is a mod i think you can do where you remove the ECU and put 12v on one of the wires (which i assume goes to the rack solenoid) but you will just have full power steer assist this way

I would check the timing and adjust the CAS after putting it all back together rather than just marking it It's just a good practice, even 1 degree out on the CAS can be an issue.

Have you checked voltage anywhere? I would start at the ECCS relay or the power pins at the ECU plug and work your way back if there is no power there. Seen as you are getting no dash lights it seems pretty major, yet odd that when it works, it works fine Is it an R33? I can have a look at some wiring diagrams and give you a starting point if so

When you say the current draw is 150ma for a few minutes, does that mean the current draw disappears? It is probably just some sort of storage function of the head unit if that is the case and I wouldn't worry too much about it. I've never been a huge fan of the Sony car audio products, and I don't think they are the best out there. So i suppose if you really want to fix the problem you will probably need a new head unit. That is unless their is something else tee-ed into the audio circuit. Really the head unit controls all the power going to speakers etc, so if there is a current draw there it can only really be the head unit (unless, as I said there is another system on the circuit)

I thought I had a more helpful photo, but the one I have is of the series 2 front with the series 1 bumper that shows the gaps you get there The REO bar is different between S1 and S2, keep that in mind. The S2 bumper wont fit on the S1 Reo bar. I can't remember if I even tried to fit my front bumper with the S1 lights still installed but I would just look for a S1 bar or buy a FRP copy from one of the local (Australian) suppliers Pic attatched in case it helps a little:

I like how they talk about cost cutting and then just when development starts slowing down a little they decide to change everything Refuelling should make things better

Pull it apart and have a look. I cant see it from where im sitting so how am i supposed to tell you whats wrong with it. we have given some suggestions but thats about all we can do If its v-band it wont take long to pull it off the car. Couple of bolts and a vice/press and it will come apart. Or just look at the seat and see if anything has damaged it etc

I have seen them go tight in the seal which makes them really hard to pull out. When you get it out, if the seal is still ok, put some rubber grease or similar on the seal and it should make it alot easier to adjust and remove/install

Take it off and have a look. They arent terribly complicated Sounds like there is either a problem with the valve being jammed/sticky or the seat being no good Hard to diagnose over the internet. Remove from car --> disassemble--> inspect. Put up pics if you are unsure

Hitting it with a hammer is not a good idea Try removing the timing cover with the CAS still attached. Might make it easier