89CAL

Not sure if its the right plug you might have to look Link Looks like its a Denso plug, I think the JECS ones use the centre keyway. The above link looks like they suit either. Might help

Id say they would be included in the above mentioned kit The hoses that connect the hard pipe to the block etc and all the little hoses (for coolant bleed and turbo coolant line) that are under the intake manifold? They come in the kit

The blue relays? Didnt the car come with a cover on the fuse relay box? Should tell you what everything is on there.

Better late then never haha I need to get out and about more with the camera. Should go to a drift session one day and get some photos. Would be good

Discharging the static electricity caused by the turbo spinning. Was mentioned a few posts ago I dont run that earth lead anymore. No issues at all

Is that an Atmo Bov I see?

I thought ECU was electronic control unit? Think it can stand for both Anyway, proceed

I found when mucking around with a friends RB26 power GTS-t when he bought a D-Jetro for it that it wouldnt fire up. We managed to get it to fire by removing the CAS, turning it with the key on and then putting it back in and starting it (we were actually checking fuel and spark were working fine, obviously the extra fuel in the cylinders was enough to start it). After it fired it ran, and I messed around with the tune to get it to idle fairly nicely. But after this it wouldnt start again. Have since been told that the D-Jetro base tunes are woefully out of wack in some points which I didn't think would be the case. My old RB25 Power FC could be started, run and driven (gently) with the base tune no problem. If what I've said in the first post sounds about right and you have only been trying to start it to check it out then it may be a tune issue Some things to make sure are done first though - Have you changed injector settings (if running different injectors to stock only)? Is it running MAP sensors? Are they selected (think they are by default but cant remember)? Are the MAP sensors getting a vac/boost source from the correct spot? Start simple and work your way up. I'm guessing you have checked Sensor/SW check for any faulty sensors etc?

Yeah I've found mine is fine. People probably hold the tensioner tight as they do the bolt up, where as all you actually need to do is wind the engine over (backwards or forwards, cant remember) a few times then change direction, hold the tensioner at that point as you do it up. The small hex in the tensioner isnt for doing the belt tight, just for holding the tension. Mine hasn't snapped, slipped or made any noise so must be alright. I have the procedure here somewhere anyway. that was just off the top of my head

Masters Sell grab kits and individual parts out of them. I'd say they would have a copper washer kit and therefore individual copper washers for sale. Look for somewhere that sells the champion grab kits, see if they can help.

No March Thread to be seen? April it is Haven't touched my camera in ages, so I'm a bit rusty. Anyway, 5am wake up to go take some sunrise shots

Love to Comp cover

I run a Gates racing belt with no problems. Some people find they are noisey but they may be over tensioned Kudos offer Greddy as well i think which i havent heard anything bad about. Id probably go Nismo if i had to choose but the gates belt came in the kit i got so went with that

If its hardly bigger then why put it on?Search. Honestly. Its all there.

I get the strange feeling that the wheels are starting to fall off at Mercedes. Not for a minute suggesting they are going to stop winning etc, but things don't seem as straight forward as they did back in Australia

Sounds resonable I was recently thinking its probably time to get a good quality battery in the thing and it might be the problem if thats how the tech works. It was fine all weekend so i dont think its something as simple as fried internals etc Thanks Chris, always have some good answers (y)

Climate control and CD player should have nothing to do with immobilizer etc. I think your going to need to get a multimeter out and actually have a go at finding the problem. It could be anything from a disconnected battery lead to a dodgy ignition barrel You say the fuses arent blown, but is there actually power there? Is there power to the key switch? Is the battery ok? To many variables here to diagnose over the internet

Someone will be here for days writing out that parts list I thought someone like Kudos would do a kit, if not im sure they would put a list together. Andrew is awesome to deal with I could use fast to get all the numbers, but would probably miss one and I have plans this week

Ahha i knew there were more hoses but didnt quite realise there were that many more haha. I thought mine was bad even with 1/3 of them deleted.

The tune is poor at idle. There are settings in the Power FC to iron out some issues with the A/C on Go to where your rev limit is and there are settings there for A/C. From memory there will be F/C (fuel cut) with A/C on and off (half of its in Japanese so can't remember which is which) and also Idle with A/C on and off. Havent played with a Power FC for a little while but you can up your idle with the A/C on a bit and do the same with the fuel cut (which means it will disable fuel cut at whatever RPM you set). Playing with these may help your idle, and you can't really stuff anything up playing with these so I would play around with them first, you will just have to work out which is which. If you struggle to get any kind of change in idle or the figures are maxed out, then the IACV may be wound in or out too far. You can adjust this and then try messing with the idle again. Other than that you can use map tracer to see which cells the tune are jumping to when the AC is switched on and off. But without a wideband it is harder to work out what is happening. Honestly, if it was me, I'd take it back to the tuner and say I wasn't happy with the idle and get him to fix it (should be done free of charge)

Non of my JJR hoses are leaking

Was about 3 years ago off the top of my head. Had been thinking the car seems to struggle to start lately when its been left a few days so i had thought of that. But thought surely when theres no drain on the battery it should be fine. Its done it after driving 15 mins and parking for about 5-10. So dont really know. Cant rule it out anyway. Might grab the multi meter out next time

Think I may be up for a new alarm but thought maybe its just something silly Have a M60 alarm, have always had one in the car but had to replace the module a few years ago. Has worked fine ever since. All of a sudden the remote wouldnt unlock the car forst time, and now sometimes it wont unlock the car at all and i have to sit in the car putting the PIN in. After that the car runs fine, everything works as normal and usually the remote comes back to life next time i use it. So far i have replaced the battery which maybe helped a little bit, then replaced the remote with the other one that came in the kit which i thought had fixed it but it has still been playing up At this point im fairly certain ill be up for replacing the module again. But maybe its just something simple. If anyone has any ideas i would love to hear them, hopefully its just something silly

If you have time i would source a kit from the UK. Its the only place that seems to make the heater hoses for gtst (in silicone hose) think i ordered these from boost junkie or something along those lines The rest of my hoses are JJR im fairly certain. Its silicone hose, works fine

I thought it fits if you park next to a GTR. Any GTR is fine