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Its just there for positioning. Makes it much easier to locate. Spin the CAS with your hand, not much load right? You just need to pay attention to where the locator broke off then try and line the CAS up to it. Use a timing light to confirm

No............ just no They are to different I just cant see it looking good

Bride rails from the same place you got the seats from?

Ive never been one of the big Vettel haters, but find that I like him more now

^ sounds about how I'd do it. Should be fine

The Power FC's (especially the older ones) tend to pick up 'false' knock. As an example I had an old power FC on my car when I had the gt2835KAI (think it wasa v2.20) which I replaced with a brand new one. Same tune on both, with the old one I used to see 20+ knock on startup and randomly get spikes of knock at really random times. With the new one, only ever got about 6 knock on startup and never really had any knock issues Im not suggesting that its nothing to worry about and your Power FC is lying to you, but its worth mentioning The tuner needs to put a standalone knock sensor on it and have a proper listen for knock. Log the point where it knocks if you can or at least remember where it is then get the tuner to go for a drive with you and listen for actual knock. There may be no problem at all, or it may need a retune This is the only way to prove it for sure

2620 only does 340 degrees c. No good for turbo. Its honestly not needed on exhaust components

As some sort of thread locker on the exhaust side? Have never heard or it being used before.

Kimi only 0.2sec off Rosbergs time. Not that you can read too much into FP1, but its encouraging to think we might have more than a 2 horse race at some point this season. Poor Dan. Might be a case of right place, wrong time

Are you suggesting the use of loctite thread locker? It will just melt on exhaust components

They probably run 2 studs and 4 bolts as standard to make fitting the dump easier. Stud acts as a guide. In this situation a stud is no better or worse so I assume its just for locating. Like I said I ran CAT high tensile bolts in mine with some loctite silver grade anti-sieze, no issues at all and when I pulled it off it was only tight when first loosening the bolt. Finger tight the rest of the way. For some reason remember it being easier with all bolts and no studs but thats going back a bit

2 studs on the bottom of the dump, the other 4 are bolts 14414-17F00 - Studs x 2, approx $5 each 14434-V0301 - Bolts x 4, approx $5 each If you really want genuine. That is how they are supposed to be. And it does (for some strange reason) say the studs are for the compressor housing, but they definetly bolt onto the turbine housing. Japlish maybe not the best

Compressor studs are on the compressor side of the turbo, as in not the exhaust. Probably for the elbow off the compressor outlet. The dump pipe uses 2 studs and 4 bolts if its anything like the r33's. You dont NEED to use studs and bolts. Use whatever is easiest to undo. Measure what size you need and go down to CAT and ask for the size(s) you need in high tensile bolt. This is what I used to run. Put a little bit of good quality anti sieze on them as well and they will be wasy to get out next time and wont sieze in the holes If you are talking about exhaust manifold to turbo then these are all studs and usually wont come out of the manifold

Seriously. Just run the stock one, or buy an aftermarket plumback one and plumb it up. If you really want to change the noise (this is the only reason I changed mine, because I don't like the stock BOV noise, not I wanted a hektik sound) then you can still change it with a plumback, and get none of the drawbacks of an atmo. It's not worth the trouble of defects and getting harrased all the time.

Did I miss thr info about mods on your first post or did you add that :S Anyway, I would check what the others have suggested. If you have recently tightened the throttle cable then thats where I would start. Maybe loosen the cable completely so it is not putting tension on the TB and then check your idle then. Rev the engine a little and then check again.

Vac will be higher when revs are a little higher. Throttle body closed and engine turning faster means more vacuum created. Your problem is the idle. Put the vac issue at the back of your mind What ECU, what other relevant mods? Need more info to help

Basically. Think about it this way (im going to exagerate alot here). If the oil coming out of the trans is 200 degres, and the oil going into the trans is 50 degrees, which would you rather know about?

Better idea to run it in the lines to the cooler so you get an idea of how hot the trans is.

Oil is oil. Temp gauge will be fine What do you mean can you use the factory wires? Gauge comes with a harness, connect to switched power, earth etc

Thread revival. Anyone still play online? Heists are cool but I spend more time in lobbys waiting for a full team or getting kicked out of jobs because someone leaves etc. Bit frustrating. Would be good to have a couple of people to do heists with that we know would be there and see the thing out

RB30. You can even try Holden and see if they will sell you one. Someone did have the part nunber listed in a thread some time ago but cant help you with what thread it was That thread may still be salvagable if you want to find the right dye for it. I pulled my stud off an RB30 at the wreckers and ended up having to use vise-grips and damaged the thread a bit. Cleaned up alright though. Running in the car at the moment

I read something about Renault saving all their tokens so they can work on next years engine or something along those lines. It's a pretty vague recollection I know, but it was something along the lines of pooling all their tokens for next years engine (maybe using tokens they will get next year along with this years) It's great to see Kimi in a competitve car again, with any luck it will all come together and will see some nice driving. I'm a bit worried by Seb's pace but. He seems to have wrapped his head around the Ferrari very quickly

AJ annoys me when there is a team radio about to play and he just keeps talking and always seems to stop just after its over A funny thing to compared to the Sky commentators - when the cross to a garage shot etc the Sky team says 'there's ________, who's been _______' Meanwhile, channel 10 in the same position is pretty much just silent. Not a major thing but I just found it funny Matt White is a useless commentator. Cant they swap him with Neil Crompton?

Its only the Aus GP people. Its the same every year. The races that 10 do show will be with the sky team commentating Apparently the foxtel broadcast is great. Adding the pack next week prob. Been some pretty average commentating on ONE of the little bit of coverage ive managed to see. Thet were getting confused that someones time hadnt been registered, finally realised it was because it was an out lap. Saying Nasr's name wrong. Webber is def saving it

Have to get a font, it costs some stupid amount of money to buy the particular font. It says which one it is in the Fast thread somewhere I think, but I wouldn't bother. Top one is basically body style, bottom one is transmission