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If you are truly worried they can do a flush. As Ben said, the A/C compressor has a trinary switch that turns it off above a certain pressure and below a certain pressure. As soon as the hose started leaking the compressor would have cut out and never started again. Air con systems need to be clean, but I dont expect too much would have got into the system (bar the melted pipe which has been replaced anyway)

Buy a turbosmart dual stage boost controller, wire the dual stage up to the stock solenoid wiring (through a relay if necessary) and then adjust your low and high. Will give you whatever you set your low boost at till the ECU triggers the stock wiring which will switch it to high boost I'm with the other guys, not really sure why you wouldnt just run the high boost setting all the time, but I suppose you may find the 'kick' from a sudden boost increase appealing. Anyway, its not a hard thing to do

Those 2 plugs (first diagram, circled near the relay box) are where my problem was with the reverse lights. They were gunked up with crap. Gave them a clean and came good

Only real risk is not tightening them back up to spec etc or contaminating the bearing. If there is no reason to suspect a problem, its not something you need to do. But I see why you would want to check just to be sure, seen as a big end cap is only 2 bolts away. Being that its a single piece girdle main cap, its not so easy to just pull one of them. Honestly up to you

See in this photo, there is a Funny slot looking thing in the middle of the plug. On the wiring harness plug, there is a white retainer that holds the plug in. It slips in this slot. You have to pull the white lever looking thing out (it should pull out till it is about middle of the plug) then the plug should pull out of the ECU easily

Why not buy a discreet boost tee, some black boost line and hide the boost tee where you cant see it? If you think you only got caught because it stood out, then hide it somewhere better. I think the R32 GTSt actuators run about 10psi. Honestly though, without an aftermarket ECU I wouldnt bother running any more then 7psi. I ran 10psi in mine through the stock ECU and it hit R&R badly and just wasn't real nice. Even when I got boost to the right point where it would run till redline, it was still not great. Did the high boost mod to the standard boost solenoid and running around 7psi again it seemed so much nicer. My advice, take it or leave it. Save some money, buy an ECU with in-built boost control (Link/Vipec etc, even the PowerFC can do it with the optional boost kit) and get it tuned. You will be amazed how much better it runs, and if the tuner is good you will get better fuel economy and so on

it has a white retainer thing. It pivots in the middle, you have to pull it on the side of the plug so it should end up being a the back of the plug if that makes sense Then it will pull out

I'll see what I can do. I'd love to get my paint finished. Its a bit of a mix at the moment. Have old original paint on half the panels, The roof was resprayed and I'm not real happy with how they blended it, and I have pretty much brand new paint on the front end. It could use with a good detail and some paint protection I might ask around and see what I can work out.

O.K I have had issues in this area before with my reverse lights. They worked intermittently (funnily enough) and I bought a new reverse switch but discovered the problem before I put the new switch in. Reverse lights would flicker on and off etc I've circled the speed sensor plug (top of drawing circled in black) and the plug I had problems with (was just dirty, cleaned it up, checked connections were good) And in the next one it shows the same thing but in a wiring schematic, just so its easier to work out which wire is which. Its pretty easy looking at the plug to work out which wires are which. Just hold the plug and look at it in relation to which side of the plug on the drawing. If you need a hand I can help anyway. Ive marked around the plugs and put dots where the wires for the speed sensor are Just found this as well, shows the speed sensor drawing as well

I think you need an oscilliscope to test the speed sensor properly. Give me 10 mins and ill dig up some drawings

For sale section or buy from a turbosmart dealer. There are going to be no 'other' ways to make it plumb-back that are going to be easier then buying the right adapter and hooking it up. The adapter will cost stuff all (probably $30, if I could get a Greddy one for that price I'm sure turbosmart are close)

Sorry, was on mobile and could only see your name there, so figured R34. I can have a look at the wiring diagram tomorrow morning and give you some info if you want. Because its not happening all the time, and when it does work the speed reads right (correct?) I'm assuming its a dirty/loose connection somewhere along the line or perhaps the early stages of a rub through/short. If you have a multimeter, I'll give you some places to start. Probably re-do what the mechanic did but its best to know for yourself

Dirty connection somewhere is my bet. Keep in mind that the speedo signal goes to the speedo before the ECU so if it is cut pre speedo, neither will work I would check your connections from the gearbox loom and clean them if needed. I have an R33 wiring schematic but it might not be relevant to the r34

Fuel reg limits pressure by bleeding off fuel so this is return fuel to the tank. You want your filter on the inlet line so not the one off the fuel reg, filter on the line that goes into the rail

Mentioned quite a few time that you are running more power but havent given a figure. Will make a difference what people will recommend if your running 1000hp or 500hp I run Gates, im running 'alot' more power than a standard 25 but its only around 300rwkw No problem with my belt

Is the nismo thermostat meant to compensate for the lower RPM downfalls of the N1 water pump? Ive never thought about this till now Personally I would change away from the N1 water pump if it is mostly street driven but I understand if its an N1 GTR that might not be desirable

Spec is 650rpm I think, but I always find they idle much nicer at around 800-850rpm

Forget Canberra. I only want you to come to Mackay If you ever feel like a working holiday, I'd be more than happy to pay for you to come make my car look that amazing As always Phil, Amazing job.

What size thread? I can get you some standard torque specs But being what they are, it doesnt mean my std torque will be right for that suspension arm. Im assuming you have crowsfoot spanner sockets if you are going to torque them?

Sounds like it happend when the car is already in gear when letting clutch out (correct me if im wrong) so it wont be synchros When you say it grabs late, you mean in the pedal travel? Check the pedal box hasnt snapped a weld. Mine did this one day and it felt really odd to drive, found the problem then piled some weld on the pedal box and good as new now

Ahh yes of course. Air pressure in the cylinder. I remember now Ive pulled a head apart out of the car at a engine shop and it was enough of a pain in the ass. Personally I wouldnt do it, id use it as an excuse to freshen upsome gaskets and clean some things up, but thats just me. Some people just want to do the job that needs to be done which is understandable

Id recommend taking the head off to save dropping a valve then having to do it anyway This tool probably gets around this issue (dont know how it works really) but it only takes one step out of order or a quick bump etc and youll be valve fishing I dont think its a good idea to do it with the head on with an rb because of how recessed in the head everything is. Not like a traditional rocker style setup where everything sits up higher in the head

Unrelated to your lifter issue, but if it were me id think about doing something with the relief valve on the oil pump. That seems awful low for relief pressure. My tuner even suggested mine could go up a touch but its not an issue that warrants adjusting it at this stage Id agree that you might benefit from new lifters. Even second hand lifters out of a lowish km car

I dont want to Hijack the thread, but it seems on topic. If anyone has any intercoolers that they know are fantastic or awful, maybe post in here. Ive been thinking about upgrading to a new cooler for a while but ive been recommended expensive cores that cost $1200 or so and im not even sure mine needs replacing so not keen to drop that sort of cash

Look up FC Hako or Datalogit. You will need one of those to connect the power fc to a laptop. if the tuner you are using doesnt have one, id be a bit wary of taking a car with a Power FC to them