89CAL

He's right. You will definetly need a bigger throttle body for that power

10psi/1000rpm is just a rough number to use as a guide. Of course its not a definative figure, I usually see around double that until I hit the relief which I think is just a touch over 100psi

Wheel speed sensor faulty? Problem with the ABS actuator or module? Its anyones guess, need to take it to a workshop that can plug a scan tool into your car. Would be the best thing to do

You need ECU power to run the CAS and use the feedback to output to the injectors so sounds like the ECU is always on

As with what GTSBoy is saying, I had intermittent power steering problems (power steering went very heavy, seemed to be only when the car was hot then started) Ive put a lock bar in and taken the hicas light out, but the light would have been on anway Turns out my problem was HICAS ECU. Since I changed the ECU out have not had a single issue

Dont use the FPR vac/boost source. Tee it off the boost gauge.

Is the join for your heater hoses leaking? I only say that cause mine has a very slight leak which I missed the first time I went looking for a leak. Assume R34's are the same Otherwise (and hopefully not for you) it may be a leaking welch plug in the block inside the bellhousing. When I built my engine I was really lucky I pressure tested the cooling system before it was ready to go back in the car. The plug was leaking and I had to change it.

Change the roll hoops (camara mount) back to indicate which car is which

Ask if you can pull the sunroof out and have a look. Its only 4 or 6 nuts from memory and easy to pull the glass section out. Should soon be able to see if its no good FWIW I pretty much never use my sunroof. So if you could just space it up so it seals and disconnect the fuse, I dont think youll miss it I know its a bit crap but I use mine in winter about 3 times, when the heater is a bit warm but having the windows down is way too cold. Use the sunroof to pull some air out of the car

I think after 3 years, he probably worked it out or gave up long ago

Remember Red Bull last year? Horrible pre season with numerous break downs/issues. Then come Melbourne and they got a car home in second (ignoring the post race issues) Helmets; well I think changing too often is no good but every so often for special races I like it. I remember when Mclaren drivers used to run the special helmets in Monaco (for a sponsor, forget who) with diamonds in them etc. Vettel was taking it a bit far but I think its funny that they made the ruling against helmet changes 'to help fans distinguish the drivers' yet the poll shows the fans are not concerned.

I didnt think r32 or r33 had one

If you want to flush then ATF might work pretty well. I ran it to see how it would go after seeing late model commodores run it in their manual boxes. It worked OK but because it thins out nicely when it warms up, it flushed the gearbox pretty well. Its just a suggestion anyway. Im having the same problem with the redline but have a new batch ready to go in. If it does the same then ill play with the breather

I think Just jap call it an air mix actuator or something. They used to have an OEM parts section and it was in there

There is a short lead out of the ECU case then a plug to a cable with a USB on the end. The cable comes with the ECU. If you didnt install the board in the ECU case and/or car then whoever did may have it

It could be the stitching in your seats

Sports channels are only $25 a month. The rest is just your base subscription. Although I see your point if you are joining purely for F1 Id like a dedicated channel but looks like its just going to be on fox sports 1, 2 or 3. At least we will see practice, qually and race live anyway. Somethimes I tried streaming practice but was almost always useless

Nissan, Kudos Motosport. I think even just jap list them on their site

Do they mean nothing on the hand controller works? Speed goes to the cluster before the ECU. Cant remember but the temp should do the same as well as oil pressure. Tacho im not sure about

I looked at the manual just now. Read that, the answer to all your questions are there amazingly...... Turbocharged Vehicles: Install the bung downstream from the turbo before the catalytic converter. The high exhaust pressure before the turbo interferes with the lambda measurement and the high exhaust temperatures encountered there can damage the sensor. Innovate LC-1 Manual

What do the instructions that came with the kit say? My AEM kit gave specific instructions for where to mount it, something like at least 1m away from the turbine outlet and at least a 10 degree above the vertical. I think it does work in the stock location, but it isn't the best spot to put it. I can see how it might be an issue, with the extra heat that would be right at the exit. AFR's will be the same the length of the exhaust pipe, its the delay in having the sensor at the back compared to at the front, obviously it does take a little bit of time for the exhaust gas to get to the end of the exhaust pipe I would look at the instructions and see what it says. If you mount it in a different location then you can run it through the gearshifter hole, this is where I ran mine (its mounted about half a metre pre-cat from memory) It would really be helpful to see some sort of wiring diagram that innovate give with the sensor. I could look it up and see, but I can't really be bothered right now. I'm hoping you have at least had a look at what it says before making this thread.......?

Should be an ethernet port for internet features like on demand shows. New box coming out soon apparently has wireless

I have 2 coax lines for the dish, Think it has something to do with the dual tuners built into the box? There are provisions for 4 coax lines in the back. I'm waiting for the new box to come out at the moment anyway. Should have wireless. Otherwise its easier to do what I do, just buy a range extender, disable the wifi from it and use it as a network hub for your TV, foxtel box etc

Id say ad free but not sure I already have foxtel so just need to add sports channels. No problem with falling asleep, can record it on an iq box. Thats my plan

Locally.... I wouldnt take my car to Kmart tyre and auto for even a tyre change. Finding a good mechanic you can trust is hard (especially in smaller citys) so sometimes its best just to learn yourself With the standard inlet manifold on its a bit more of a pain, but its still only a few hose clamps and a few bolts harder. Get a cheap tool kit from supercheap (think I got a 79 piece kit in a hard case for less than $100 to keep at home) and it has all I need. Start with little jobs. Once youve played in the engine bay a bit youll get really good at it Just dont rush. Take your time and its less likely you will make mistakes