89CAL

You wont get a V-Band for the turbo mount to the manifold. V-band outlet yes but not inlet I'm happy with my 6-Boost but cant give much more advice than that

There a couple of different lengths. Best to measure all and buy some new ones or you should be able to buy a kit for these from Autobarn (I believe they sell these) or ebay should sell a kit if you can wait a little

Maybe Nissan? You know, the company that built the car/gearbox

The switch for the brake pedal just has a plastic nut holding it on from memory? That will be your issue. I had the part that reacts on the switch fall off mine once so was an easy fix but sounds like yours might be the switch itself

My R33 Nismo mounts are fine. They are still rubber after all

Have you pulled the boss kit off? There is a plug in the HICAS hub for the horn. It may just not have been pulled through the boss kit

I was looking at Penrite pro gear GL4 75W90 but its hard to find here. Going to order some in the new year and give it a go

What car? What have you done anything to it recently? Limited info You can bridge two of the wires in the diagnostic plug and it will flash a fault code I believe

Front Fuse Box in engine bay You can find it in the same wiring manual that the above comes out of. The 'R-9' in the blue box between the relay and harness indicates the item number, then find it in the component locator

Did you turn the boost down as suggested?

It is to the left of the steering wheel. Theres a little grille looking thing on the dash.

Ahhh WD40 on the belts. Soapy water works much better because it dries and doesnt leave residue....... As above with the clutch fan, davies craig hubs tend to be on 100% all of the time however. Stock ones usually do the opposite when they wear out

Gonna need alot more information? Intermittent injector pulse could describe normal operation really.....

The sensor in the dash is unplugged or faulty (usually gets left unplugged when removing the dash trim) Pull the dash panel off and see if the hose and plug are installed

Pull the pedal box out. They often break one of the spot welds. Do a search, theres been a few good threads on it from memory Easy fix, just weld it back up (weld it up a bit more than stock to futureproof it obviously)

Get some 4mm and 3mm boost line and some nipples to suit. They are all one or the other. The thread in the manifold should be 1/8 NPT/BSPT i believe

Stock ECU? Buy proper ECU

Boost gauge, Fuel pressure regulator, carbon canister and blow off valve should be the 4. Larger port is brake booster

The plugs are different from memory. The locating tangs are in different spots so you cant connect the wrong coils

Which oil are you using? Im thinking of changing

Did you ever mention what Fluid you are using? I'm finding it really hard to believe you are having this much issue with the pump itself, as per my post on the previous page, I ran mine DRY for about 30mins and it still works absolutely perfect to this day about 5 years on. I would do as suggested and remove the power steering belt, drive the car and see what happens. It is possible that hearing the noise is causing your brain to think there is a power steering issue. At least this will prove it is the power steering system. Does the noise change at all when you steer? Perhaps there is a bypass valve in the steering rack that has an issue? (I'm not 100% on how the racks handle the oil when there is no steering movement). Also, there is a solenoid for the power steering effort in the rack that controls the assistance based on speed (controlled by HICAS ECU). I have had this fault before and the steering is heavy all the time (ECU Failed)

I still have dramas with mine, Thinking about changing oils and going away from redline lightweight, But the box feels so much nicer with redline oil in it. I'm fairly certain I bent the tube straight a while ago and still didn't fix the issue, thats when I went to the breather setup, but I'm getting problems like yours. Was starting to think I had put the one way baffle plate in the wrong way when I rebuilt the box but think I would have bigger issues if that was the case. Be interested to see where everyone else is at with this issue, I first thought someone mentioned a batch of lightweight shockproof that was doing this but it was not an issue with later batches but I've had a few bottles through mine by now

RED: From 20A ACC fuse --> ACC Relay 2 --> Junction Block --> Keyswitch BLACK/RED: Front 10A IGN fuse/signal for IGN relay --> Keyswitch and tee's off to ECU also WHITE/BLACK: 10A Fuse --> Tee's to signal both ACC Relays and goes to Keyswitch WHITE/RED: ECU --> Keyswitch BLACK/WHITE: Starter Motor, Inhibitor switch (Auto Only) This is what my wiring diagram says anyway, looks fair enough

Talk to Chequered Tuning about it, they seem to be good from what I see and you never know, they might pull up your tune and be able to see what is wrong without even having the car there. Otherwise, as above. Get someone to watch what it is doing when it happens. If you have a hand controller and someone who has half an idea you may even be able to pin point it off there. They may have put a large amount of safety in some cells when they tuned it, and its not in a cell you normally hit day to day driving but when there's a different load (i.e. Burnouts) then it just touches these cells I'm just guessing. If you have a hand controller log injector duty and timing then see if it spikes or drops when the fault happens. You can log airflow as well but I think something like injector duty or ignition timing will give you more of an idea

Wow. Are you sure it doesnt still have a turbo timer somewhere? Sounds like what mine does, times normally unless the park brake is down (it just turns off then) so i would pull some dash panels and have a look at the ignition barrel wiring