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89CAL

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Everything posted by 89CAL

  1. That was my suspicion. But i know some people use laundry powder to flush sometimes so thought they may have been soapy bubbles That sucks anyway but at least you know the problem now.
  2. Pull the thermostat out and flush it. Stick the hose in there and let it flow for 15mins or so have the ignition on (not started obviously) and have the heater on to make sure you get anything out of the heater core also. Even better, pull one of the heater lines off and flush through the core that way
  3. I used nulon 10w40 mineral oil. Im no expert but my engine hasn't exploded yet so must be ok
  4. Bubbles? Like air bubbles or soap bubbles? You did flush it with water after using whatever flushing agent you used? And put coolant in afterwards? And bled it correctly?
  5. Sounds like you need to retrace your steps.
  6. Even low km parts can fail. Just be sure that you fix the root problem (if there was one outside of the turbo itself)
  7. Have you checked end-float and side play on the turbo shafts?
  8. No Engine Oil = Bad Assume worst case scenario in these situations. Better safe then sorry and all that
  9. This is the factory gauge? Install an aftermarket one or get a test gauge to check it. Factory sensors can play up and are quite expensive to buy brand new
  10. This will be a version of the formula 1 hybrid technology. Turbo is still a turbo but uses an electric motor to assist. And it sounds like effectively a generator/motor harvesting electricity and deploying it when required If you havent already, check out formula 1's V6 hybrid engines
  11. Got a spare ECU? Sounds like everything is working ok so perhaps an ECU fault. Checking against a known working ECU is a quick and easy way to rule this out Seen as the ignition key should be the trigger for the relay (to earth the ECCS coil side), it should activate it Also check your fuses. I know my R33 has 2 engine control fuses and one of them (if installed) makes the car stay on even with the key out so maybe something silly like this?
  12. If its closer, why not use the positive terminals in the relay box in the engine bay?
  13. What happens at full throttle? Can you look with the car off (as less vibration etc so less chance your foot is moving small amounts)? What is your battery voltage like?
  14. Pull one out and look? That would have taken 5 mins rather than the 2 days this has taken so far
  15. On R33 they are T10 wedge
  16. Volvo basically drives itself. I call lazy cops
  17. Yeah it looks like the idea was to 'suck' candle wax into the thread which somehow makes it looser It all sounds like BS to me.
  18. Yes it is the BOV return line. It will go to the intake pipe (pre-turbo) and the other end should go to the BOV on the J-pipe (pre-throttle body)
  19. Absorbent rag and lots of time. You will have to spend the time doing it long flat screw driver to poke the rag in tight spots If you have a compressor and air gun you can use that to help. Get some degreaser or brake clean and spray where the oil is then blow it out with the air gun. Note that this way will be quite messy unless you cover the area while blowing it out
  20. ACL bearings probably arent much more than standard (maybe even less) so can't hurt to run different bearings. OEM should be fine but
  21. Get the harness and knock sensors....... who knows what the engine is doing without them.
  22. Why don't you have knock sensors? Im not sure if that will be a problem or not to be honest.
  23. Tried resetting ECU? I say this because its free and easy to do
  24. I have mine like this. If I had to do it all again, I would probably do a separate drain port into the sump but I can't really be bothered now. Probably doesn't do much but its there
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