tets

i have a pair of vskfs 17x9 +17 and they will look flush if your intrested

i tihnk you guys are right. system was pressurised, now how do i get all the water out? unplug cas and spark plugs and crank till it shoots it all out?

was having issues with the car not making any power, couldnt work out what was wrong with it on the dyno after 30 runs (280rwkw => 130rwkw). car revs fine and makes boost fine. just doesnt put any power out to the wheels. car has t67 25g, other bits n pieces and standard motor. anyway today i decided to take everything apart and replace exhaust gasket and plenum side gaskets. when i took off the plenum i could see green coolent inside one of the runners and when i took the runners apart there was coolent inside the paths that lead to the cylinder. in 2 of them they where dry but the rest was filled with coolent. comp test is fine, coolent is green not creamy or anything, oil looks fine aswell, no rust on sparkplugs they just black. also car isnt driven daily only used at track can anyone think of how coolent would of gotten inside or only way is from headgasket? copper colour is from copper gasket spray used onto of the normal gasket. any help would be great thanks

powerfc +hc r33 rb25 pickup in melb 1200 firm

those wont fit 33 gtst. need the round holes not the forks

need negative offset to fill guards not +17 bump

if you dont have the budget then youu dont really have money to change the turbo, do you have all over supporting mods? no point changing turbo if the power increase is so little that stock injectors are going to keep up. then if you change injectors you need afm and then u need ecu and the list goes on.

looking for rims in melb 17" rims rims must be in low offset -30 to -10 pm me pics and prices. thanks

if theres enough intrest i can get a batch made up for r32 headlights. currently we have s14 and s13 clear headlights which makes a massive imporvement. http://www.2-up.com.au

wtb: r33 passenger taillight any color melb only msg me with prices.

2x 235/45/17 KU36 ship to melbourne 3020

in need of a rear passenger guard for r33 melbourne pickup only. pm me thanks.

i got a s14 sitting around for 8k if u can spend a bit more. can proberly orgnise a rwc if your serious.

t88 + nos = fast car

Basically im about to install a plazmaman plenum onto my rb25. i brought the plenum second hand and had a bit of a read up before attempting this, theres a few things im unclear about and wanted to see if anyone can make things a bit clearer. basically from what ive read if you place the aac onto the plenum you also need to plum the aac air input before the throttle body. ive seen alot of pics of people running aftermarket plenums and on the majority of them there doesnt seem to be an aac air input welded into the cooler pipe before the throttle body. is there a way to block off the aac properly or get rid of it? is the aac required if you run for an example a q45 throttle body, was reading somewhere that theres idle adjustment screws on the throttle body for cold starts. also when i brought the plenum the aac position was blocked off with a blocking plate with a nipple on it it also came with some other "chunk of metal" 'with the ford symbol on it which i got no idea what it does. not to sure what the previous owner done with the aac but if anyone has any ideas it would be great.

yah. looks minor. if u want to keep on drifting then just do a quick fix. no need to stress.

hrm just put everything to gether theres not enough room to shorten it, going to shorten it and put on a smaller tial gate or turbosmart. old trust gates are just to massive. in size.

done a search on this but havent seen anyone post anything about this topic. basiclly i have a trust manifold with trust gate. im sure many of you would have a similar setup on a rb25. but while im dummy fitting it i noticed the wastegate sits stupidly low, the exhaust and wastegate is about the same height. i think this would be a huge problem but i might be wrong. has anyone modified the trust manifold to make the wastegate pipe shorter? it seems to be a pretty tight fit where its located at the moment. here is a pic

not everyone has a spare 4k for a bodykit.

either get proper suspension or go proper ghetto style with chop springs. dont waste your money with kingsprings.

wonder how im going to get my q45 throttle body onto my plazmaman plen. gonna be a nasty cut n shut job LOLL.

hey guys im not to sure what this part is called or even if you can replace it, tried to do a serach but couldnt find much. can this part be replaced, if it can how do you remove it and replace and whats the part number. also would it be cheaper just to buy a 2nd hand knuckle? pic below is from a r33 rear wheel. it is where the hicas steering arm attaches.

this may sound like a stupid question, but can they be removed completely? changing the lca at the moment and noticed that they are gone. bent in half almost. can they just be left out since there is a hicas lock bar so the steering arm isnt doing anything, or do i still need them as they work as traction arms? im refering to the arms attatched to the hicas in the pic below on the right.

1.dump/front 2.bleed valve 3.cooler does nistune support auto? 4.remap of somesort if not safc

thanks, gave u call hope to get the car to melb soon