Chang

I've got some gold ones I removed from my old R32. Model specific? I've seen them in a R32 brochure but not too sure if was just an option or not.

Pm'd Open to offers on other parts guys

They look exactly like the factory sedan Aero option ones but shortened to fit coupe. Reference pic

Bump

** Price drop ** Still Available: - R33 / R34 Cusco front strut bar / brace $120 $100 - R34 RB25det intake manifold (top section) $80 - R34 RB25det intake manifold (lower section) $80 - R34 Rear high stop light $40 - R34 Skyline / Stagea side blinkers $40 - R33 GTR Blow off valves $150 $120

** R34 pedal box SOLD ** Price drop - R33 GTR BOV's $150

** R34 XENON headlight SOLD ** Still Available: - R33 / R34 Cusco front strut bar / brace $120 - R34 Pedal box $100 - R34 RB25det intake manifold (top section) $80 - R34 RB25det intake manifold (lower section) $80 - R34 Rear high stop light $40 - R34 Skyline / Stagea side blinkers $40 - R33 GTR Blow off valves $180

R33 / R34 Cusco front strut bar / brace $120 -Will fit all R33 and R34 models (series I / II and GTR) -Mint, apart from small paint nic at end plates Maybe more parts to come, so keep a look out in this thread

** Throttle body / AAC valve sold ** All other parts available. Please don't PM or tell me to PM you (as per people above) if you have no intent of buying. Your just waisting mine and your time. Also selling these now as thinking about putting car up for sale R34 Pedal box $100 -Clutch + brake pedal -Both refurbished and painted -Nismo pedal attachments included Cheers

Hi Adam, Sorry should have mentioned it. Yes it will fit on an RB20.

Yes mate, it is a straight six. But your engine is a RB25de Neo.

PM's sent and replied. Also found this hiding in the corner. R34 Xenon Headlight RHS $200 -Both brackets broken -Small hole on housing, does not affect light operation -Park light section needs to be pushed back in as it jiggles (circled red) -Includes power unit -All bulbs included

No pics of my engine bay sorry. But yes they do exist. But here's a few with the 20de http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-162563071.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-196185379.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-194810956.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-194810956.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-196512322.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-196567801.htm

Haha, I know. But it is a base car and the engine is only temporary until my new transplant goes in.

bump, open to offers guys

Hey mate, You got the same problem as me. I assume you have a RB20de R34 gt like me? I know what you mean about the sluggish low down power. A air filter change could be a start but it didn't help me. I've also done a service, but yet to do the plugs. And still no joy. However, i'm 99% sure the problem is caused with cat convertors stuffed. I'll be getting a new hi-flow one along with a new O2 sensor which should give me a bit better fuel economy as well. I'll let you know how it goes.

bump

Hey everyone, Just got some parts to clear out. PM me if interested. R34 RB25det intake manifold (top section) $80 -Good for turning into front facing plenum R34 RB25det intake manifold (lower section) $80 -Good flanges for welding aftermarket plenum on R34 RB25det throttle body / AAC valve $80 R34 Rear high stop light $40 -Standard rear high stop light, to fit 1998-2002 R34 -Perfect working order R34 Skyline / Stagea side blinkers $40 -Standard blinker / indicator lights -Fits 1998-2002 R34 and Stagea -Perfect working order -Blubs included R33 GTR Blow off valves $180 -Factory BOV's off R33 GTR -Can split for $100 each NOTE: All prices are (AU) dollars. Shipping will be additional $15 (AU). Open to reasonable offers. Am located in Auckland, New Zealand My trader feedback if necessary: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=37637&la=0 Cheers

It's sort of hard to depict the yellowness in photos. My headlights weren't as terrible as some out there but enough to see a yellow tinge. None of the left unfortunately, as I thought the right one was worse and show a better before and after.

Finished product: See your done four easy steps to restoring your headlights. Now before you tackle this, you should like me and take photos. It not only till you compare the before and after do you see the difference. Before: After: Before: After: Before: After: Now you’re done. See, under $10 and you saved a considerable amount for your other mods. Although your arms have lost feeling by now, it’s well worth it. Don’t you agree?

I'm pretty sure the GTR and GT-t headlights are the same XENON types. I've been to Nissan and they came up with the same code for my car. As far as i'm aware there are only 3 R34 headlights available -Xenon type -Non Xenon type -Non Xenon type II, (found on later series II R34's with the silver housing instead of black) Post some pics of different ones as i'll like to see them please. Oh and I always thought GTS-t meant, Gran Tourer sport turbo as opposed to Gran Turismo sport turbo. meh small diff.

bump

I've got a pedal box as well, fully refurbed http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...57#entry4330357

Hey again, Over the past couple of weeks, while surfing the net, I’ve seen numerous amounts of people asking about yellow headlights and how to restore them to factory fresh. I’ve even seen as far as people setting up group buys for $150+. Now this really annoys me, as it’s a very simple process to do. Then you get people saying it’s really bad when they turn on their lights, so quickly come to the assumption it’s inside of the headlight. I guarantee 99% of the time it’s just on the outer surface. This guide offers you guys a simple, cheap (talking about less than $10 here) yet equally effective solution. I’m talking no buffers, no special chemicals, no tricks. Now, for those who don’t know, here’s a low down on why headlights turn yellow. It’s plastic! Simple. Like any plastic, as it ages the clarity disappears. This really only happens on R33 and R34 Skyline’s due to the plastic housing headlight, unlike the R32 which is made of glass. Hence, this tut applies to all R33 and R34 Skylines. Right: Tools needed: -Wet Sandpaper / Automotive sandpaper. You can pick this up at your local hardware store or auto paint supplier. You’ll need 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit. Just one of each will be more than sufficient. -Car wax. (Just any reputable brand should do, or any you have lying around your house) -Masking tape -2x Pieces of cloth, preferably something not rough. -Strong buffing arm Step 1: Sandpaper / Preparation Start by ripping considerable pieces of same paper (of each grit) and let them soak in a bucket of water for a good 20 minutes. Whilst the sandpaper is softening now’s a good time to mask of the car. Now this is a very important part as you want to mask off nay part you don’t wish to sand. You can never be too careful or use too much masking tape. HINT: Instead of masking your bonnet, have it open all the time, that way you can save time and don’t F*ck it up. Step 2: Initial sanding Start with the highest grit 1000 and start sanding the headlight. You should sand the headlight for a good 3-4 minutes on each grit. Now do you see the yellow particles you’re sanding off, yep that’s a good sign not just an illusion. NOTE: When sanding you should only be sanding in one direction, i.e. left – right or up – down. This prevent swirls and deeper scratches. Also while sanding always keep the sandpaper constantly wet to prevent clogging. When finished, give it a wipe with some tissues. It should look like this a very dull finish. Now your probably thinking at this stage “What the F have I done, it’s ruined. I’m going to kill that Chang guy” No no, don’t worry it’s all part of the process. Just keep reading. Step 3: More sanding Now after using 1000 grit slowly progress down, 1200, 1500, 2000 till it looks like (After final 2000 grit) Step 4: Polishing Now I’m sure like me, majority of you don’t have any special chemicals or buffers. Too expensive, too difficult, too lazy, too can’t be f’d Anyway, get your polish that you’ve got and polish it like you would a car. But really get into in. I mean rub it hard. Use a lot of elbow grease. Till it looks like this NOTE: You should be polishing in a circular motion, as opposed to the sanding technique. Use the second cloth to wipe away the wax as per normal. You should be waxing until you can’t feel your hand or about to pass out.

Hey again, Over the past couple of weeks, while surfing the net, I’ve seen numerous amounts of people asking about yellow headlights and how to restore them to factory fresh. I’ve even seen as far as people setting up group buys for $150+. Now this really annoys me, as it’s a very simple process to do. Then you get people saying it’s really bad when they turn on their lights, so quickly come to the assumption it’s inside of the headlight. I guarantee 99% of the time it’s just on the outer surface. This guide offers you guys a simple, cheap (talking about less than $10 here) yet equally effective solution. I’m talking no buffers, no special chemicals, no tricks. Now, for those who don’t know, here’s a low down on why headlights turn yellow. It’s plastic! Simple. Like any plastic, as it ages the clarity disappears. This really only happens on R33 and R34 Skyline’s due to the plastic housing headlight, unlike the R32 which is made of glass. Hence, this tut applies to all R33 and R34 Skylines. Right: Tools needed: -Wet Sandpaper / Automotive sandpaper. You can pick this up at your local hardware store or auto paint supplier. You’ll need 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit. Just one of each will be more than sufficient. -Car wax. (Just any reputable brand should do, or any you have lying around your house) -Masking tape -2x Pieces of cloth, preferably something not rough. -Strong buffing arm Step 1: Sandpaper / Preparation Start by ripping considerable pieces of same paper (of each grit) and let them soak in a bucket of water for a good 20 minutes. Whilst the sandpaper is softening now’s a good time to mask of the car. Now this is a very important part as you want to mask off nay part you don’t wish to sand. You can never be too careful or use too much masking tape. HINT: Instead of masking your bonnet, have it open all the time, that way you can save time and don’t F*ck it up. Step 2: Initial sanding Start with the highest grit 1000 and start sanding the headlight. You should sand the headlight for a good 3-4 minutes on each grit. Now do you see the yellow particles you’re sanding off, yep that’s a good sign not just an illusion. NOTE: When sanding you should only be sanding in one direction, i.e. left – right or up – down. This prevent swirls and deeper scratches. Also while sanding always keep the sandpaper constantly wet to prevent clogging. When finished, give it a wipe with some tissues. It should look like this a very dull finish. Now your probably thinking at this stage “What the F have I done, it’s ruined. I’m going to kill that Chang guy” No no, don’t worry it’s all part of the process. Just keep reading. Step 3: More sanding Now after using 1000 grit slowly progress down, 1200, 1500, 2000 till it looks like (After final 2000 grit) Step 4: Polishing Now I’m sure like me, majority of you don’t have any special chemicals or buffers. Too expensive, too difficult, too lazy, too can’t be f’d Anyway, get your polish that you’ve got and polish it like you would a car. But really get into in. I mean rub it hard. Use a lot of elbow grease. Till it looks like this NOTE: You should be polishing in a circular motion, as opposed to the sanding technique. Use the second cloth to wipe away the wax as per normal. You should be waxing until you can’t feel your hand or about to pass out.