made_guy

+1 for scammer. old mate was online 2 days after he posted this. either that or he sold the lot, or doesn't like the smell of people offering to buy his stuff

found out it's actually the MAP sensor and have had one person tell me its fine to plug straight into that, another saying it won't be suitable for an aftermarket gauge.... i'll just splice into the wires and see how i go for a while and look at changing it to this http://www.nengun.com/apexi/avc-r (499-X002) $79 + deliv.

f*ck! sorry about the late reply - i forgot about it.... anyway here's what the manual says: 1. go to the vehicles tool kit and retrieve the sunroof crank handle (this looks like an allen key - not sure what size though) 2. remove the outer switch cover with a screwdriver (this is the plastic bit with the switches and light) 3. Place the Crank handle in the port hole and turn clockwise to close the sunroof. Should the sunroof be in the tilt position, turn the crank handle anti-clockwise first 4. replace the switch cover and contact your dealer to have the unit repaired (or just to have a heap of drugs delivered so you don't care anymore about your sunfroof)

LEGEND!! thanks man!

thanks man - part 2 of your answer was partly addressing one of the questions i was asking tho (i.e. about using the stock boost (MAP) sensor for my gauge). Given that it is generally accepted that the factory boost gauge is not accurate, I wanted to know if it was the MAP sensor or the mechanics of the factory gauge (motor/cog whatever) itself that created the inacuracy. so you're saying it probably won't work, but mad082 is saying he is using it and that it does work. i don't think output would be a limiting factor, just the upper limit of the MAP sensor, i've heard conflicting reports - that it can only go to 1bar/that it can only go to 2 bar? If i was plumbing it with a tee-piece directly to the gauge or even to an aftermarket MAP sensor, i wouldn't need need to worry about the factory MAP sensor.

old thread i know, but i think mechanical v electronic but refer to the internals of the gauge itself, not whether or not it gets 'plumbed' directly to the gauge. Reason i say that is cos i have an Apexi ELI Boost gauge that only has electrical wires going into the gauge, but it is listed/sold as a mechanical gauge.... it runs off the factory MAP sensor.

THANKYOU! haha i thought if it was that simple i'd find some other post/s about it, but i hadn't seen a definitive answer. did you just splice into the wires or swap the wires? i'm thinking it's probably safest to splice in case the map sensor currently also feeds the ecu etc.

if i was to plug in my apexi boost gauge to this map sensor would it affect it's accuracy? seeing as i'm using the apexi gauge to replace the innacurate factory one. or is it the mechanics of the factory gauge and not the map sensor that is innacurate?

good to see from dusk til dawn is at 0%!! that movie rocks!!!!

hey the wires on my apexi EL boost gauge seem to correspond with the cable leading from the map sensor....can i just plug it into that? or is it recommended to use a tee piece to a 'apexi' boost pressure sensor (which i don't have as i bought the gauge seconf hand)?? if i can just plug my gauge into the map sensor, will that give me accurate readings? or does anyone know where i can get an aftermarket boost pressure sensor?

anyone think these will fit the rear? R33 18 x 9.5 +26 offset i had 18 x 10 +35 and they stuck out probably about 10-15mm

how about a bump? 4th wheel is waiting at depulu for me to pick up after being fully reconditioned, will have pics for it shortly.

dude what's your location? annnd, did you spray the drifteks while the tyres were on??

hmm ok, so i got home and had a look under the bonnet and see that the line coming from the plenum is going to a little box with the same sort of plug as indicated in the manual (link above) this box: can i just plug my gauge into this? or is this leading to the ecu or something?

haha dude you need a jack and some stands!! the hardest bolt for me to get off was the one closest to the exhaust header - lucky i found a 'pivot' 1/4 drive socket handle in my dad's boot!! i took some pictures during my ordeal but haven't got around to offering them up to the existing people who've done dump pipe tutorials.

Does anyone know if you can buy the pressure sensor (and the little fliter thing) needed for an Apexi EL (series I) boost gauge? its the pressure sensor on page 4 of this manual http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/8.pdf I'm guessing it's interchangeable with ELII gauges too. Also if anyone that has installed one could give me a heads up on installation issues it would be much appreciated (though it looks pretty straight forward - provided you have a pressure sensor...) By the way, i bought this gauge yesterday 2nd hand but haven't been home to have a look in my engine bay - was just trying to figure out how much time it would take me by looking around for 'guides/instructions' and noticed the reference to this pressure sensor... :S

oooooh fair enough - no wonder i was like "wtf man". sorry 'bout that. hey its not the street commodore magazine (think that was it) article is it? the one they retracted cos they used a 'useless' testing method that was actually a grease test and the manufacturers threatened some legal action??

what's a dual funnel?? got any pics?? i'm in brisbane this sunday

what are the pictures of?

damnit!!! i can't see some pictures on this thread when i'm at work!! that's the second time in 2 days this affliction has thwarted me! for example i can't see my avatar or shanef's but i can see dano's!?

and then they blame us for sleeping around when its 'they' who have forced us to do it! i think i just go in expecting things to just slide off/out, the minute they give me grief i stop caring about the welfare of other parts/panels and i'll do anything to get something off!! i'm always in a hurry too which just adds to the frustration.... ah well enough whoring this perfectly good thread with details of my shortcomings as a human being

yeah i'm a terrible boyfriend. but god it annoys me when she asks why i "need" new wheels, or why i "need" a big intercooler!!? stupid STUPID questions!! i do 'some' work on my car myself too, but i'm not sure if i actually take extra care. i one of those people who yells (i even kicked a big dent in my old car...) at his car for being such a c*nt when bolts are in hard to reach places or are super tight etc. As an indication, my car currently has some blood and some smudges on it from when i fitted my dump pipe last week, as well as a couple of little scratches from my belt when i was leaning over the front quarter panel....dammit just thinking about those scratches makes me wanna kick the sh*t outta my car!!!!

haha, dude you're not giving me anything to discuss... that other thread has a heap of discussion in it by people more knowledgable than me. i'm not dissing rp - i put it in MY CAR to start with!! buuut - Royal Purple uses a different chemistry than most oils. They are one of only a handful of marketers using Molybdenum Disulfide (Moly) in their oil. Moly is a solid material, which is specifically banned by Cummins®, due to excessive valve train wear. Royal purple use moly. http://www.enhancedsyntheticoil.com/Royal_...e_vs_AMSOIL.htm rp is a GOOD oil, its a group IV oil, redline is a group V. i've come to my own conclusion that i would rather pay the extra for redline. i'm not really telling anyone else what they should run in their car. like i said previously, the differences most of us will notice are probably negligible when comparing quality oils such as these in daily driving situations. after doing a bit more reading - i'll probably stick with rp for my second sub-5k oil change before going to redline (was going to try mobil 1 this time around but it appears that mobil1 is actually not considered a true group IV oil by many....

^^ true that! plus, this is actually the most 'gentle' way to treat a box and will increase the life of any gearbox new or otherwise.

haha yeah that was me, but if i could afford a lambo, i'd (want to) be able to afford to have an authorised workshop to do any work to it just because I doubt many mechanics (lube mobile, 'performance', import specialist etc) have actually worked on them. but its all a matter of perception i guess - i was thinking "yeah it might be worth paying almost double the price of a normal a mechanic cos he 'may' look out for specific issues that are common with my car" or something like that. but then when you consider how common skylines are nowadays and the availability and even interchangeability of some nissan parts - i'd rather use the money i save on mechanic prices to take my girly out to dinner and have her complain, moan and bitch about how i'm such a bad boyfriend for spending time and money on my car...."baby i swear that is an ice cream stain near the tailpipe....!"