made_guy

isn't that a universal harness? did you ever get this tuned?

john you bastard! has no one else noticed paul HASN'T replied at all!?!? from the looks of it, paul has taken your cruel advice john!! do you feel happy now...well, do you!?!?!!? and if everyone "knows" stickers don't add any extra power, why THE FCUK DO YOU THINK V8s, F1 and EVERY OTHER RACE CAR HAS THEM!?! case closed

swap you for my clutch?

you're an idiot. people pay for services because they don't have the skills, time, energy, experience or inclination to do it themselves. you pay someone to do their job, you expect them to do it. most people don't have the time to research the same things that a professional is being paid to have already researched, trained in and hopefully already done a few times. i've done my own fmic, full exhaust, front bar and 100km service - because i had the time, inclination - to save money- and the naive expectation that it would be fun...!! . If i could afford to pay someone to do it though, i probably would have. you say you're with the shop, but you point out that a simple phone call from the shop could've changed the course of this dispute. you say a customer needs to know what is going to be done to their car - yeah, that's what they expect to be told by the mechanic you douche... i'm trying to be neutral with my comments - i've never had work done by amec, but their presence on this board with good feedback for the most part points to their generally good reputation. but like i and others have pointed out, people expect good service, so they're not going to rave about it when they get it. customer expectations need to be exceeded for that to happen - and something bad happening in the first place is actually the best opportunity a business has to do that.

yeah have to say, if i'm getting my car worked on and they say it's 'done' but is not as expected (e.g. bar not sitting correctly) and I haven't been warned before coming to pay/pickup i'd be pretty annoyed too. it's like ordering a big mac and getting the pieces of meat raw and told you'll have to get that part cooked elsewhere. if you knew that before buying, you wouldn't bother. also, any contractor knows that as a general rule, if you mis-quote an amount of work, you foot the difference. customers aren't going to come back or give any favourable feedback to someone who underquotes then underdelivers come time for payment. seriously, even when customers are assholes, it's in a businesses best interest to do absolutely everything in their power to satisfy them. customers who are initially unsatisfied with a service/product are actually more likely to be a source of repeat business and word of mouth advertising than a customer who just get's what they asked for/expected. think about if when this customer came to pick up their car, and AMEC says, "look i didn't realise the front bar would need trimming, and because of that, didn't factor it in, we'll get this place we deal with and trust to trim the bar for you at a discounted/no cost". The customer, is like "well, f*ck that sucks, but i guess if you didn't know and you charged me only the hours you quoted - at least they're trustworthy" and then they're more than likely a customer for life. sh*t, if i were you guys, i'd try to work something out. AMEC has a good name as far as i know, it doesn't take much to add doubt to the name in many potential customers minds, and it also doesn't take much to reinforce trust...

yeah dude, unplugging the tps is suggested in the workshop manual - that's how it gets it's 'base' timing.

SOLD SOLD Item: OS Giken TS2BD Twin Plate clutch incl. flywheel 480hp rated Location: Brisbane or Gold Coast Website: http://www.justjap.com/OSGikenCatalogue.pdf Item Condition: Used Reason for Selling: not necessary for my rb25's power - going Jim Berry single instead. Plus to fit it, need to get a release bearing for for about $120 or something - details are in the link above. Price and Payment Conditions: $650 +postage (it's heavy by the way) Extra Info: comes with flywheel, 2 friction plates, 2 pressure plates and cover of course. friction plates have 4mm of material left on each plate (new is 4.6mm) spring damper clutch plates - kinder to your gearbox allowing the clutch to "take" the shock out of the drivetrain push type clutch with 9,800N/m (1000kgf/m) fits r32 r33 maybe others rated at up to 480hp / 350kw SOLD SOLD

how much was the 27mm swaybar? i only see the 24mm one on the SK groupbuy thread?? pm me if you want

sorry, wasn't sure if you were monitoring both posts, so covering all bases - thanks for the reply though

Hey is anyone going to V Festival this sunday on the coast? I've been holding a spare ticket for my mate and you guessed it - he's cancelled, so if anyone is planning to go and wants it for $10 off ($129 total), let me know.

what's the reason for selling - what bar did you change to?

hmm, how come you're selling? is this from the sk groupbuy?

as far as i know it will actually work with almost all jap cars - unless you've got the specific plug and play loom for an r34, it's "wire in" for the main unit

they're the same

good info here - i too am trying to decide between coil overs and the sk groupbuy (but not the coilover option $++) with a preference for track ability at the expense of a little street comfort.

...to line everything up for top dead centre: *the mark on the left (looking at engine from radiator side) cam gear will be pointing northwest *the mark on the right cam gear will be pointing north east. *the mark on the crank shaft gear will be souteast your timing belt's marks will then all match up with those. then to do the timing: *get engine up to temp *unplug the TPS (throttle position sensor) *loosen 3 bolts holding the CAS onto the engine enough to move it slightly *hook up your timing light to the loop at the back of the engine or the no. 1 coil/plug (as well as the battery) *point the timing light at the harmonic balancer and press your button *the light should be matched to the 4th line (yes, that's 15 degrees - first line is 0, second is 5 and so on) *adjust CAS until the timing light flash lines up with 15 degrees *tighten cas, plug in TPS and away you go.

search. this is a common topic.

^^ um, i'm not sure how you figure that. i started the thread as a couple of tyre places i went to didn't want to fit non-legal rubber to a rim while it's not on the car, so i was asking for any knowledge of places that would - for example if they didn't mind fitting non-legal rubber if it was for drfit/track. but your input has been super-valuable thus far

dude there will definitely be a mark on the crank gear. it's a little 'indent'... when it's TDC the mark should be in the lower right side of the gear -looking at the engine/car from the front.

sounds like you're probably better off just getting some new rda rotors from the group buy (assuming your rotors are still original - they're probably in need of replacement) and get some better brake pads and even some braided hoses. If you really want to spend more money that that though, the G4's have been extensively discussed (pretty favourable from what i remember). OR, there's a groupbuy going to upgrade to GTR sized rotors up front using an adapter for the caliper bracket which will mean cooler rotors (due to overall size) which should give you a reasonable improvement.

ah sweet - good to know! i was just going off their pictures which were obviously for a different model car. these have got much better feedback than the other cheaper coilovers - i'd get them if i had the spare cash.

ummm, i think that's what i meant when i said "think i'll just take the other rim off the front - put the two stockers on the front"...

oh and size... i'll have to get back to you, i don't even know off hand i bought my rims with the stretched rubber already on them and I'm not really partial to it - get way to much understeer at times (which is probably largely due to my completely stock (i.e. f*cken sloppy) suspension.

hmm, well, i'm getting the crack in the rim repaired, so that should be an issue - but like i said, that's gonna cost around $130 i'm guessing, and at the moment (not for another 2 weeks at least), i don't have spare cash for tyres. yeah i should have rotated the tyres at some stage - didn't realise i had that much camber on the front though and i can only rotate the fronts as i've got 8.5"s on the front and 9.5"s on the rear. I think i'll just take the other rim off the front - put the two stockers on the front - go to the tyre shop (when i get my cracked rim fixed) and ask them to rotate the two as they are spares or for the track or something - that way they won't be fitting them to the car and they can write whatever they want on the invoice. THEN.... i'll go buy some cheap 2nd hand tyres or something like the cheapskate that i am

yeah they'll fit a r33 non turbo - they're the same. but are you sure they're HR series? I thought HRs had adjustable tops?