made_guy

so you do have some value

where abouts are you?

no writing on them at all - it's all in the thread up the top but pics are on this page of other people's fitted. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&st=240 the thread title (one linked to in first post) says RB20/25 so I'm guessing it fits the RB20

never had it picked up or got any cash so it's back up for sale.

never picked it up or got the cash. so it's back up for sale.

i'll take the heat wrap if it's still for sale bro

i've got both for $60 if you want. where do they need to go to tho?

sold

sold

Item: clear cam gear cover from PSI Parts Age: young Condition: pretty perfect - just has some wear around where the bracket you bolt the CAS into touches it. you can't see it when it's on cos it's between the bracket and the CAS of course! Price: 90 To Fit: (What car) RB25 Location: Brisbane/Gold Coast (i'm always in between both) Contact: me on 0404837187 or dane.huitfeldt@nrw.qld.gov.au Comments: bought it from the group buy with PSI parts http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ar-t155162.html put it on, thought it looked lame (my engine bay is UGGGly so it looked really out of place), so took it off and put the original back on. prefer pickup (or delivery if it's convenient).

Item: clear cam gear cover from PSI Parts Age: young Condition: pretty perfect - just has some wear around where the bracket you bolt the CAS into touches it. you can't see it when it's on cos it's covered by the CAS. Price: 90 To Fit: (What car) RB25 Location: Brisbane/Gold Coast (i'm always in between both) Contact: me on 0404837187 or dane.huitfeldt@nrw.qld.gov.au Comments: bought it from the group buy with PSI parts http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ar-t155162.html put it on, thought it looked lame (my engine bay is UGGGly so it looked really out of place), so took it off and put the original back on. prefer pickup (or delivery if it's convenient).

go to bunnings and buy a little length of 'bracket' (it's just a piece of steel with a heap of holes in it). cut it bend it attach it i just used a screw from my old airbox to attach it and had to drill out the existing holes in the bracket cos they were a little small. took 10 minutes. cost $2 or something.

this is a sweet deal. wish i had the cash at the moment!

ahh now i get it. they're hard to come by, i had to buy one recently - there's one floating around on here for about $70? i have the outside gear (the teeth part) you can have if you want to just replace that bit.

you won't get that sort of power without an ecu or emu. standard turbo and your existing mods would be very lucky if it made it to 200rwkw.

i haven't heard any bad stories about catcos...?

finally some serious discussion on the qld board

your boost is too high for the stock turbo.

Well i'd allow 4-6 hours depending on experience. Plus remember you will want to give another maybe 24hours for any gasket maker you use for the new water pump to cure before running water through it. Mine took a lot longer because a) i had nooooo experience b) i did cam and crank seals, water pump and replaced ex cam gear at the same time c) i didn't have all the necessary tools to start with d) i snapped a thread and broke a few tools in the process Would i do it again.....? welll yeah! now i know what i'm doing!!! sort of.

oh cool, thanks

no worries - ah i see what you mean about the plugs. yeah i don't think it will make a difference - hasn't for me. if you've got a gtst like it says in your sig, you can change to a 'adjustable' inlet cam gear if that's what you're suggesting - there's oil that feeds the original one for the variable cam timing thing the factory one does. i think the only way to change to an adjustable is to block the oil feeds first....you probably don't want to do that. what sort of belt did you get fitted by the way? the reason the spring can affect it is it might not apply the correct pressure to tension the belt while you're cranking the engine while the tensioner is not tightened.

hey dude, where did you get the clear lines from? are they silicone or some other plastic? cheers

definitely go with a straight pipe that matches the diameter of your exhaust rather than gut the cat if you don't require one....

Sorry mate, only just saw your post. I'll start with your question about turning the crank a couple of times - Yes you should turn it twice and you should notice as you do it that the tensioner will move slightly as your turning it. Make sure the tensioner bolt is loose enough to allow the tenionser to move freely under the force of the belt. After the 2nd turn to tdc you should see that the tensioner has moved as far towards the idler as it will on it's own - this is where you should tighten it. If it's making a noise after that i'd ask - How old is the belt? Have you changed the idler? Have you changed the tensioner and/or tensioner spring (this is one most people don't do). As for your plugs....well it's up to you - it won't alter any belt noises that's for sure. Just change em if they're old and worn, otherwise don't bother unless you really have your heart set on a new set.

i think the 6's are better for that power range - they're good up to high 200kw setups from what i understand - ask kudos