made_guy

for the gaskets - definitely just go with nissan - they're crushed steel style gasket so you shouldn't re-use an old one my old one looked fine but i had already bought one from nissan [$35 or something!] can't remember if i put any gasket maker on it as well....probably not needed. i also got my O2 off with a regular open ended spanner and some wd40 - pretty easy - i think it's been said before of difficult to remove bolts etc - "get to the chym girly man!"

great price considering the price on here... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t85467.html

bloody great price - pity i've just done mine! g'luck with sale

just wear on you synchro's man. try double clutching as mentioned. i don't know enough to explain it, but it feels like releasing the clutch and then pushing it in again gives things a chance to align more nicely than doing the whole change in one motion. e.g. clutch > de-select 4th > neutral (clutch position same as when de-selecting 4th) > select 5th > release clutch [things haven't had a chance to re-align from a neutral point] v clutch > de-select 4th > release clutch > true neutral > clutch (fresh clutch engagement ) > select 5th > release clutch [things have hit neutral without the clutch affecting it - the best starting point to select any gear. it's just a more box-friendly and often a more solid engagement] remember 5th is also possibly the least 'sure holding' gear in your gearset and in worn boxes can just slip out of gear. think of it as if you're rock climbing and 5th is the last hand hold and you have to stretch and grab it with just the tips of your fingers... errm.. [note to self, shut the f*ck up with all these weird analogies you come up with!?!?]

performancelub.com oh and buy a couple of changes worth - save's you plenty on shipping bringing the cost down further.

haha ok ok mang! pm'ing now!

so the settings on the first page are just for a road kit right? what about the track settings? also, which parts are suitable to compliment existing coilovers?

hey thanks for that! the pic is perfect! i'll definitely give this a go and probably replace the plugs first - then if the problem persists, the money i've saved not buying new coilpacks can go towards an emanage or something. cheers!!

sweet - what part of the coilpack exactly do you cover up? photos anyone??

hmmm so two choices....oh well. i suppose i need to do both (plugs and coilpacks and get some management - thinking emanage ultimate at this stage) so i guess i just need to choose one to start with! $$$$ hey isn't there a thread about making the standard coilpacks tougher? might try that or get the jjr ones! thanks guys

having just installed a jj front mount and upping boost to 10psi i've noticed that when flooring it i don't get great response and up around the 4500-5500 rev range i get a series of little pops. I used to get some louder pops when changing gears ever since i put my exhaust on, but these are much quieter and there's more of them. still get regular backfires when changing gears with a bit of throttle and i think they're a bit louder too. mods are simple: fmic ces split dump+front nismo cat-back ...gutted cat (i only did it to see what it was like til i get a catco i swear!!) ebay manual boost controller running 10psi apexi pod - no cold air box yet just completed my 100k service too and i'm pretty sure the timing is all good cos it runs beautifully smooth other than this issue. fuel filter is only 2000km old also, but i haven't checked/changed the plugs yet nor have i inspected the coil packs. so i actually just want to know what the pops are - i'm guessing misfiring? what does 'pinging' sound like? I'm guessing the remedy could be anything from plus->coilpacks->fuel pressure->management right? I haven't changed

what's the offset? i think you'd have trouble with the fronts on a 33

oh almost forgot - saw a silver 33 4 door on markeri st - if you're on this forum, pm me and tell me what mods you're running!

these are urethane right?

that's great news. although the bit about it touching the cross-over pipe is a bit of a concern.... spose i'll just have to try it and see

Hey i'm just looking at putting a strut bar on my R33 and was wondering if anyone has experience with the $99 ones from justjap? Is there much difference/benefit to get a more expensive one?

tested the 'skyline owners wave' today going for a mock cruise through surfers (so my tatted mate can yell sleazey/wog/islander comments at people).... spotted a couple of lines today in surfers - super hot 34GTR asian dude driving it - i let him in on the roundabout and he waved back another white 33GTST but the tool didn't wave (he looked like one of those angry guys who's never been with a girl - you know the type) oh and another white 33GTST with pink bits () on the interior and a blondey driving - think she gave a smile after seeing i was waving - too bad i had just got the third or 4th worst haircut ever today...

driver's side power window regulator condition??

+1 on how much...? been meaning to get this fixed on my car too - i can see if leaking from the p/s components above the rubber sleave on the drivers side.

Hey i'm wanting to put a chin spoiler on my R33 but i'm not aware of any off the shelf ones available such as those for the s2 and gtr bars - does anyone know if anything off the shelf will bolt up or will i need to just fab something myself? also - where can you get those little aero 'fin' things top go on the side of your front bar??

Hey, i'm after a regulator for an R33 drivers side electric window - this is the scissor/cog bit. if you don't want to separate the motor, i suppose i can pay for that too, but i really only need a regulator - oh and in perfect condition, no bends/flexes or repaired items thanks - that "clunk, knock, slip, bang" noise of the regulator flexing then popping out is enough to give me shivers, i don't want to hear it again cheers dane

hey man how did the window's go? as in were they smooth going up and down etc? i'm after the drivers side regulator - don't really need the motor but if you'd prefer to sell together, let me know price. cheers

i think that's pretty slack of a mechanic to just palm off the noise saying "it can wait til next service".... and if a mechanic doesn't know to turn the crank 360 degrees twice before tightening the tensioner...sheesh. i had a weird ticking noise last week when i did my own service.... i had forgotten to tight the bolt holding the lower ac belt pulley on.... tightened that and the distributor belt got loose! tightened that and it's been all good. Also i used a greddy belt and replaced the idler and tensioner and sometimes i hear a slight "hum-hum hum-hum" which 'appears' to be the idler, which people say is normal on a fresh install and just needs a bit of running in to settle down the noise.

donesky though i've just removed the foglights+indicators from my bar rather than cutting into them. next job is the pod cover to get rid of that nasty hot'air lag. oh and now i want a new plenum - that 'front pipe' across the front of the engine with these fmic kits gets way hotter than i expected. also noticed that it's really not hard to get away without cutting fan blades to install these with only a tiny bit of bonnet contact if any at all!

but looks like he meant 32 v 33 there