HRthirtyone

nice man, what kind of TIG welder are you using and what alloy filler material?

thats looks like is a pissy little dent not even worth posting about! na seriously though, keep an eye on your oil pressure but it should be A ok.

ive heard ppl say theyve had bombsquad style mirrors poked down near the firewall to check if its the standard turbo... theyre not dummies, they do it for a job, can u imagine how many imports theyve seen come and go, and come and go again>!?

make sure your new spigot bush fits on the input shaft of the gearbox. Make sure the gearbox is not in gear. Make sure clutch is aligned properly. Also helps sometimes if your engine mounts are loosened off. Make sure your engine crane is holding the engine at the right angle, with the right amount of reach. Dropping the tailshaft out is easy?! I have assed around for hours trying to get an RB on, and sometimes they go right in... sometimes you will only get it so far, then you have to use gearbox bolts to pull the rest of it up... Hope it helps in some way. ps take that friggen monster snail off! why u need that on before its in??!!!

seat sold, not separating parts off the engine

seat is from gtt and comes with standard rails. now $50 each, must be gone within 2 weeks. If anyone is seriously interested, please call becuase i dont get on here often.

as title says, located in Adelaide, South. call 0422260437 - callum. engine has no.1 cyl main and big end spun. but head is in good nick and has low kms on it $50 R34 seat is in MINT condition... $50 comes with standard rails, out of a GTT

r34 seat added

not separating wheels. Yes i Have a spare cas. $20 Also spare ignitor $20

For Sale RB20 valley cover (Black bit that sits between rockercovers with "Nissan twincam bla bla" written on it) $20ea, got 2 rb20 standard airbox, $30 R34 drivers seat mint condition, $100 Rb20 Head (engine) - 80,000kms, good nick Lots of misc. leftover r32 bits. Sold the car, parts need to go. Located in Adelaide.

bump

i got a mate whos third year apprentice, gets $15 per hour....

man i have said this before and ill say it again. i run lt12s with 230kw street car daily driven. it constantly gets 11.5 -12litres per 100kms, i have had the setup for 2years. why be so narrow minded? powerfc would be better if you got defected/wanted to go back to stock to sell...

are you wanting to put a turbo onto an NA car, and run a low boost/high compression setup? lol

sorry. hate to read. ME LIKE PICTURES

yea i agree with doing a course in mech. engineering... or be a mechanic at the right shop.... some fitting and turning would be operation of machinery for work, machining parts, and writing the programs for the machining.... not directly related to what you want to do, but you would gain great fabrication knowledge etc. tuning is then just a course at microtech or similar/plus being LUCKY enough to be employed at the right place.

so you need rack end and steering rod to suit also....?

with the microtech i run the soft cut at just over 7 which cuts 3 injectors, then the rev cut at 7.5 which cuts all... when you hit boost in 1st gear, its like zzzzzz bu-bu-bu-BANG with a cloud of black smoke out the back!!! wouldnt a ignition cut only be dangerous if the fuel that is still being supplied ignited on some white hot carbon in the cylinder???? and blew half your spark plug out the ass of your new disco???

yea dude, the blue ones, that are meant to be 3x stronger etc. if you dont have cash to fix it straight away, park it up , and take the head off..... Dont even bother with a compression test, you should have bent valves. it wont hurt to take it apart and suss the damage.

why does everyone think you cant "fine tune" a microtech???? thats what the new generation stuff with matrix mode is for!!!!!!!!! my economy is same as stock!! with lt12s, 555cc inj. gtr pump. etc

yea the belt should have 10mm play in/out between tensioner and gear as i recall, if it makes any noise its too tight! i have fitted a few gates belts, my new one is silent!!!

just wondering, i have a lockbar and noticed the other night that with the car jacked up, and rear wheel off, i can grip the rear disc and "turn" it 1mm in/out, as in i can see the tie rod move in and out of the lock bar 1mm. seems a bit too much slop to me?!! how would i fix this? get a new lockbar? or tie rods? Both?

stuff taking up space! need to loose it

if you have ever made the mistake of buying cheap parts with cheap rose joints that f##k out after 5-10,000kms and get really sloppy and noisy, you would value quality, and not buy cheap crap. Having said that i do not know the quality of Just Jap Suspension parts. they are more than likely locally made with some parts being cheap taiwan/chinese stuff.

dude, if you dont drop the oil out, when you drop the tailshaft you will get GEAR OIL everywhere, and that stuff smells BAD. drain it. or you will drain half of it on the ground anyway. cheers,