HRthirtyone

pm sent - ill take em

pistons may be sold!

hehe know how to cook and clean? if yes, pm me details.

na 34 is different to 32 & 33 sorry bud

anodising is so thin it is measured in microns. The longer they leave the item in, the thicker the anodising. Anodising is one of the most hard wearing and durable surface coatings you can possibly do. The intercooler would probably want 5-20 microns, BUT with some anodising on aluminium you get a very Cloudy/ Patchy finish, and can look quite bad. If you choose to paint it, i would recommend using a thin first coat of etch primer. You can use any automotive paint/laquer on it, heat wont be a problem.....

i say take the plunge, live and learn buddy!

well.. in turbo cars if you have 240kw at the wheels, it is also a knob away with the boost controller to lower it down to say 190kw with a lower boost level. so yea thats pretty much perfect. you dont want to be driving around on 16psi everyday to work @ 240kw, it starts to rain then before you know it your fishtailing 3rd gear with only half throttle on cheap ass Wanli's or NAnkangs......... so id say for street driving 240-260kw @ wheels max for street DAILY DRIVEN, as long as you have a streetable clutch and diff and GOOD tires/brakes.

ok so your computer is factory programmed for 2.5 litre engine, supplying it with enough fuel for 2.5litre engine, until under WOT, boost aand high rpm, the 2.6 bottom end will be moving a lot more air. with the standard fuel... get it on a dyno. it should NEVER melt plugs!!!

thats a complete engine with less than 85k on the clock for $400! it doesnt need new rings, just bearings and tunnel bore....

bump for cheap RB20det

its a shame about your bentley dude.... i remember picking one of my cars up from the docks out at outer harbour and seeing this thing, was in REALLY good nick couldnt believe my eyes when i saw it..... was like WTF???? a BENTLEY????????

"HKS from the Turbo back (5500)" lol @ 1200hp for street car with stock auto trans

you cant go wrong sticking to manifacturers specs when its a daily driven street car. For turbo piston engines, fully synthetic is better, because of the lower additives, and higher "cooking" point, which is needed when passing through the turbo.

just put a new gearbox in , the old one let go. Have receipt! price drop to $15,500~!!!!!!

R34 seat, mint condition, $150 ono Rb20det Head. excellent condition approx ~85,000kms $200 (was compression tested before taken apart.) Rb20det block, needs tunnel bore, comes with perfect crank $200 ono RB20det coilpacks in perfect working order $40 ea. have 6 and loom with a couple broken plugs. stil usable. all parts in Adelaide.

location?

geez didnt know they stopped these aswell........ i looked into it about 8 months ago with a mate who works at trial in Japan, and they were about $1000aud just to buy. Surely there'd still be some around.

yea man that air would be flowing well in excess of 90 ft per sec. mr.boost dun give a rats ass if he wears rubber or steel

do some searching on an APEXi Power FC, you will find there is an "AP engineering" model available for the RB20det at an extra cost. also try searching/ask around about a microtech LT12 model with plug and play adaptor they are probably the most common two people are running, i think mainly because most tuners are familiar with them.

pm sent, shotgun rear pods.

what model gtr they out of?

as the title states, i have a complete engine for sale, i need it gone. compression tested all good before it spun a bearing. it has well under 80,000kms on it. will provide new crank, just need a con rod and new big end and main bearings to rebuild it and get it running. Located in Adelaide. $400

paint it matt black ahahaaaaaaaaaaaaa hhhhhhh........ aha........... ha.... hmmm...............

in the HR31 skylines, they have a single core radiator. in the australian delivered they have double core radiator the same size. all the imports like r32s silvias etc have pissy little radiators. My point being they were not intended for Australian conditions. They have to be in tip top shape to handle 40+ days, i.e. good working pump, no leaks, working thermostat. That said, it should be common practise for any car of age. i went to the Just Jap Cooling Pro radiator, and noticed a 4-8 degree drop on an average drive, today was 40 degrees and the temp was sitting on 80degrees the whole 30min drive home from work. that rox the sox of any other car ive owned, turbo & non turbo

get hold of an r32 workshop manual. i downloaded one in pdf form not too long ago....... cant remember the link, but i just searched from google. its about 23meg from memory,