HRthirtyone

WHAT IS WITH PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM CALLING THEM ROCKET COVERS!!!!! its like a disease......... slowly spreading............ wish i had a rocket in my skyrocket for every misnamed rocket cover

so next you get a new plug for number 3. if there is no change, look to the ignitor.

theres plenty of places around that anodise. Be careful though, i have used a few anodisers at work for aluminium, and some have trouble with it, i.e. cloudy finish etc. aluminium is a "dirty" raw metal because of the thin layer of aluminium oxide that is in contact with the atmosphere, some places if you were to powder coat for example, would use a cromating process or some sort of air cleaning process first before surface coating in order to obtain best results. So id ring around for prices and also ask about their aluminium processes etc. You should also make sure you do not have any other metal in contact with the intercooler, i.e. steel bolts/ mounting brackets attached. This would also "botch" your finish.

dude get a decent aftermarket guage on there. I WOULD be worried, but thats because i have had a low reading like that, and everything else was fine, no oil consumption, good power etc. but cost me $$$ your much better off if you rebuild the motor before it does any damage in the bottom end

i run an LT-12s and i still get 380-400kms out of a tank in my r32 so it must not be that poor in light load situations........

what size guages do they take?

full of shit unfortunately

3psi?

with regards to running it it, it should be fine for only 1000km untuned.... you only have to bed the rings in etc but your cold start and running will probably be shyte. Should just run it in on the dyno

i have a just jap cooling pro radiator, and my engine runs between 74-78 degrees, peaking out at 80 - 82 on a hill climb with 10mins of hard driving on boost..... ----could be a head gasket. Could be radiator needs to be taken off and new end tanks and flush etc., ac fan has nothing to do with it.

yea apparently you dont need 3" until your flowing close to 1000hp.

take the turbo off, but may aswell leave the manifolds on, they make good handles when lifting it off, however the intake manifold adds heaps of weight. and yea there are a couple of 10mm bolts "hidden" on the outside, as opposed to the "inside" where the head studs are

i have run 3" and 2.5" and 2".... just like r31nismoid says, keep it the same as the throttle body. definitely go 2.5. 3 is too laggy, and you may find 2 is too restrictive for that size compressor

i like to take everything off and work fast but not rushed. Its a hell of a lot quicker taking the manifold off while the turbo is off. Stop procrastinating, you could have had it done already!

i run wasted spark setup.... rb20 microtech lt12s plug n play. Not to hard to set the timing, just put a plug lead from the coil pak to the spark plug and use the timing light the normal way. Or if you want to use the nissan timing loop on the ignition loom you just have the sensor for the timing light opened not closed around the wire and it should not double the timing.

do a tig welding course then borrow a tig and make it yourself then get it ceramic coated. if you do want to buy one, get one where the "pipes" from each cylinder to the merging point (where they all meet) are the same length.

come on guys, i will be loosing minimum 10grand on this, its a bargain really

r33 wheels sold, will take $16,000 with the white ones

the proof is in the pudding it seems, not in the wooden spoon and mixing bowl

u still got these?

opps

GROUP BUY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

FOR SALE 1992 R32 GTS-T ENGINE: New Low Km engine (RB20det) still under 3 month warranty, with receipt! ENG. MANAGEMENT: Microtech LT12s with hand controller FUEL SUPPLY: 33gtr vspec pump, sard 555cc injectors BOOST CONTROL: Blitz sbc the one with dual solenoid(the good one! COOLING: Hybrid cooler and piping kit, also BRAND NEW cooling pro radiator with receipts! TURBO: HKS 2530 rebuilt with 2835 internals CLUTCH: Brand new Xtreme Xtra Heavy Duty 6 puk clutch kit, with receipt! cost $$$$ DIFF: New diff, with receipt from wrecker (had 2 way in it) SUSPENSION: TEIN HR Rebuilt coilovers, done not even 500kms Adjustable front and rear castor WHEELS & TYRES: 18" AVS MODEL 6 18x 8, 18x 9 +35 with Brand new Firenza 235/40 fronts,(receipts)Wanli 235/40 rear PAINT: Custom paint full respray earlier this year. $3300+ worth of receipts for paint job ALONE!! OTHER: has vertex front bar, has hybrid intercooler setup, new battery, autometer oil pressure, boost guages, momo course steering wheel, full 3"exhaust with 5zigen muffler, darkest legal tint possible. Can throw in old engine + heaps of spares if need be. I.e. standard r33 and r32 wheels. $16,000

as title states, would like to know!

apparently the little casting in the shape of a ball inside the bell housing of the gearbox, that the clutch fork pivots on can break aswell. i have had the clutch pedal bracket/box snap into pieces on me.. couldnt use the clutch at all. took it out and welded it back up. If it happens again, i will tig weld the seams top to bottom. but its been a year with an xtra heavy duty button xtreme clutch and its all good. also got to watch the ram that is attached to the clutch master cylinder isnt bent or is leaking. mine has started to leak over the last week. Wish i knew where to get one