HRthirtyone

pm sent,

as title states, $250 with tires, perfect condition. Have no use for them anymore. Located in Adelaide, South all tires have decent LEGAL tread

download the rb20 manual, it will save you asking a hell of a lot of questions......

hey dude i have the same problem and im only 6'2"... i have a momo steering wheel that is heaps small but it doesnt help that much on a long drive. A rather large mate i have used to own a 32 and he said he put gtr seats in and you sit lower in them, so keep your eye out...

I think some people may be a bit confused - what you dont want is to stop your engine when your exhaust temps are high because it will stop the oil pumping and the oil will burn in your turbo and in turn turn into a sort of sludge and cause problems. Some people have said that its not like you exactly boost your car the whole way to the drive and then quickly turn it off! I would tend to agree... As your getting close to home just drive off boost and let the high airflow vs low rpm cool things down while your still in motion. Then you wont need to idle for long, as exhaust temps off boost are a lot lower, and the water temps are only cooled down with airflow! all the other fluid temps should come down as well with this approach. i have always done this, and when pulling turbos off after a few years, and frequent oil changes, i have never seen the negative effects of not using a turbo timer. there just a gimmick for street cars, and an excuse for another canary.

clutch and camber arms sold, will take offers on other gear

also got an rb20 engine with spun bottom end bearing for sale

well that really is to cheap, since its only a month old, but i just said yes to an offer of $200 posted, and im guessing its almost $40 to post, so id do $160 pick up or $200 posted

camber arms sold, pending payment

have been told the clutch will fit series 1 r33 aswell.

sorry bud, i have absolutely no idea, they are silver with black springs and no brand markings. i can take a pic if you want but i really just need to get rid of all my excess parts. The guy who i bought my car from gave them to me as spares.

prices negotiable!

thats too cheap!!

added more gear. also have rear coilovers for 32gtr, suit rebuild $150

FOR SALE: exedy heavy duty clutch for rb20det. purchased of these forums new. perfect for anything up to around 200kw @ wheels, put in car for 2weeks only done around 200kms, and took it out. I need something to handle more than 220kws at the wheels. asking $250 also have r32 rear adjustable camber arms $150 rb20 valley cover $80 and an rb20 ignitor $100 located in Adelaide, South

Bought an RB20 silvertop from local wrecker, still have receipt (only 2 months ago) -Does not include turbo,coilpacks, alternator, etc. -Came out of a front cut with less than 80,000kms on it -Put the engine in and over revved it, spun a bearing. -Engine comes with new crank, needs block tunnel bored, also new conrod in no.4 cyl. and new main and big end bearings. Compression tested within 3-4psi across all 6 cylinders, ran like a dream, very smooth and quiet. i have lost $$$ on this engine because there was no warranty even after only 2 weeks. asking $750 Located in Adelaide, south. will get pics up later, dont have a camera on me now.

on my new engine, i am runnning a new thicker radiator with standard shroud and engine fan, also front mount and the performance in 30+ degrees is still good. water temps are down, which in turn keeps everything under the bonnet that bit cooler. I would recommend covering the basics i.e. good cooling system and intercooler before setting up some sort of spray system on a daily car. Having said that, you should still keep the boost low on a real hot day on your daily just as a common sense thing.

could be rings or turbos, but if turbos were recently rebuilt, its prolly rings. do a compression test to see if you cracked a piston or something. it may still feel like its got all the power there and runs fine, but still have something really wrong with it. all depends on how much oil your loosing into the pipes. also dont the older rb26 oil pumps tend to give up with lots of high rpm?

if that guy has it in an r31 then i think i know who it is, i sold him some stuff for his rb30 conversion.. too bad i can find that thread. Cheers anyway

just wondering what exactly doesnt fit.. i have a spare rb20 head and i was thinking about chucking it on an rb30 bottom end, but i could find anything about the combo. everyone seems to be putting the non vct rb25de heads on them.

it is most likely rusted on, you may have to destroy it to get it off. They are cheap to buy new from nissans genuine parts.

ROY i ran HKS 264 with 9mm lift in my old rb20 with std. springs, no valve bouncing on the dyno@! had solid lifters tho. Ran with no problems, stupidly lumpy idle tho, and loud too, not recommended for when your pulled over in a RBT or if u got elderly neighbours with no prozac

maybe something has happened to the fuel delivery system with the higher pressure from the new pump. Its either that or its a SENSOR, so -as above, could be the oxygen sensor (in dump pipe), -check airflow metre, clean it with non residual contact cleaner/brake cleaner -may need to have your injectors flowed/tested etc, only costs around $100 -check the fuel lines, trace them back under the car, for leakage.

yup back to square 1! lucky theyre only $87 (trade price) it always helps not to do things in a complete rush (out rebuilt & back in in a day) all well, know for next time i guess.

yup exactly right, big end caps were on the wrong way around. duhhhhhhh the cylinder no's are meant to line up on opposite side of oil hole in the conrod..