HRthirtyone

yea sorry, by that i meant when i bought the second hand crank i wanted to make sure it hadnt been ground down or anything, so yea the bearings used are all grade 0 which is the stock ones back in... motor is out now, going to see what the problem is

i have covered basically everything, except, the reason for the rebuild was i spun a main bearing. without touching the topend i put a new crank and bearings in, so i didnt touch the head, or change the offending con-rod, maybe it was buggered?

bwhahahahah oh man i was getting fired up as well, ready to man handle some bitch with my bonds singlet on back hander styles

yes i will pull it out again..... was hoping it could be something simple, but all well im getting good at it now, got the last one out in 2hours. hopefully nothing is damaged.

didnt check the oil pressure when it started, because i started it outside the car, and it was running rough, i just checked all the injector plugs and coil pack plugs, then it came good, idled on all six for about 30 sec. then stalled. Oh, plenty of assembly lube, and it has a new starter motor that is all good

yea i tried that hey!

also, forgot to mention, i had it running for a minute or two, then it stalled and now its siezed. but it was very tight before also. VALVE timing also checked.

i am quite confident that the bearings are the correct size, crank was measured to see if it was out of round etc, and the plasti-guage was used. there was bugger all end float, but it wasnt measured.........

Just got the rb20 a new crank, main and big end bearings. The crank was measured at an engine shop, and the correct grade bearings were then installed going by the crank size. Just put the engine back in, and the motor is so tight it cannot be turned by hand or the starter motor. What do i do now? should i tow it?

$40 is cheap, but the nissan stockist near me never has any parts and i have to wait weeks sometimes for simple things, so just wondering on interchangability to avoid the wait!

dude im guessing your talking about the exhaust manifold studs. These always break. Here in Adelaide there is a dude called captain thread who is a mobile thread specialist who comes over and gets em out. You need to do the same thing. While your at it, replace all 12 of the old studs with the new, should only be around $2-3 ea. what ever you do, dont have a crack at it with an easy out stud remover and snap that off in the broken stud broken studs ALWAYS cause manifold leaks on these engines, and affect spool up time and performance in general.

next time just clean the cooler core out with some petrol.

howdy, i need a crank gear for my rb20. does anyone know if the rb crank gears are interchangeable? i may be able to pick one up cheap if they are the same as an rb30??? cheers

can include the bonnet pins....

yea id say your on the money.. the things that have failed on my engines have been cracked ring lands on piston no.1 with no signs of detonation on the piston tops (also signs of a failing oil pump?!), another was oil scraper rings, and my latest was I spun a bearing 2 weeks after buying an engine from a wrecker and getting it tuned.

i have a r32 gtst bonnet that someone has cut to make it look like a gtr bonnet. the underside is bogged. if you fix it up and respray it, bobs your uncle. only asking $80 or near offer. In the southern suburbs of Adelaide. heres a pic for now

ok, sorry, i should have worded it like "in my experience....." because the way i wrote it sounds like you'll blow your engine if you run over 220kw daily on stock motor. This has been my personal experience, but may not be someone elses. WHAT I was trying to get at was, if you want reliablility in an engine putting out more than double the factory power @ the wheels, then please consider strengthening the bottom end. i personally havent done this, because when i blow one, i just go get another from the wreckers, check the vital signs, and get it tuned. It sure is a hell of a lot cheaper than a complete build up, especially if you spend $3-4k on the engine and blow it anyway. It is very easy to change the engine your self if you have a decent crane and a spare weekend!

ok, go for a power fc, cheap and suitable for an all day everyday car. i have had three tuned rb20s now and rebuilt two, and when you get to the 220rwkw mark, they dont last very long. You may start to spin bearings, and crack pistons, ringlands etc depending on tune. Definitely spend the money on the bottom end first if you have all the goodies. 220-240kw is the maximum i would expect from a daily rb20, if not a bit too much. Dont run more than 17ish psi on a daily either, especially in warm weather and traffic, its asking for trouble you'll learn once you start breaking them

ditto, they can be sneaky

location?

ok, the oil pump is at the front of the engine behind the harmonic balancer isnt it? sorry, havent replaced an oil pump on an rb before.... ive pulled my old one apart but didnt take much notice of it, was more concerned about other things!

ok, so i cracked a piston in my old rb20. Just went out and purchased one from a front cut, seemed in really good nick, put it into my r32, slapped my 550cc inj, and my hks2530 on, and went and got the microtech tuned. everything seemed fine, the motor ran really smooth. - did notice oil pressure a tad lower than usual, but still good. after getting it tuned i drove it to work and back a few times, not really thrashing at all. the other night, went for a hard run up through the hills, and noticed a REALLY loud lifter noise. had to pull over and check it out. on idle it was sitting around the 15psi and even less mark on the oil pressure gauge. the next morning i checked oil level properly, it was nearly full, and the lifter on no 3-4 intake side sounds like it is broken, its not your usual lifter "tick" its more like a "rattle"... anyone got any ideas on the possible causes ??

ok, started it up this morning, i changed the oil filter for the hell of it, and topped it up with oil. The stock guage went up showing pressure, just below the 4. No lifter noise, and sounded perfect. I rekon ill get a proper pressure gauge before i take it anywhere.

na a 3" front and dump one piece.... helped make 220rwkw on my old rb20

i got a dump from just jap for $220 delivered and a stainless cat with flanges for $200, the both bolted up to the stock positions and have been there with no probs ever since.