Hydroxinol

I have a new K&N Wrench-Off Oil Filter (HP-2008) that I am currently selling on eBay. I bought the filter a while back to use in my next Oil Change but ended up selling the car before then. The box packaging has seen better days but the filter is in brand new condition and has never been used. This Filter is EQUIVALENT TO THE RYCO Z145A. I have put the Filter up for $10 + postage. eBAY Link: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220942712630 Regards, Steve.

1. Buy a cheap socket set (deep set) + Breaker bar + replacement wheel nut/wheel lock 2. Find a socket that is roughly the same diameter or a tiny bit smaller, 3. Smash socket over lock nut with hammer and undo with breaker bar. Obviously you will be unable to reuse the wheel lock but its pretty well useless to you without the key. Did this on all 4x of my wheels after losing the key (using same socket for all).

*Bump* Money has not exchanged hands yet so i'm still on the lookout for these lines.

Thanks. Please let me know how you go.

Im up in QLD. Would be happy to pay for postage if the cost is reasonable. How much would you like for the lines + postage? PM me with the answer if you would like.

Hello, I am after a couple of Aircon lines for my R32 GTS-T (see pic attached). Please contact me if you have all, or any one of these lines available as I am very interested in buying. Please note on the line with the red cap, I require the complete line from the top to the compressor below: aluminium tubing, rubber hose, end fittings, and all. Lines must also be in decent condition, will not buy otherwise. Thanks, Steve.

Hello Russ, I was wondering if you still had some of the AC Lines for sale? I am after any of the 2 lines in the image attached. Please PM me if you do as I am very interested. Regards, Steve.

Thanks for the offer Stuart but I have decided to go with Callum as he is closer. Regards, Steve.

I am after an Air Con Compressor for a R32 GTS-T as the bearings in mine are shot. Must be in decent condition. Will pay for freight to Sunshine Coast. PM me if you have one.

I am in need of a Harmonic Balancer Pulley for an R32 GTS-T (RB20DET). Needing ASAP, will pay for freight. Thanks.

Excellent! Thanks Jiffo. So basically I need to follow these steps in order to get access to the bolts for the water pump? And im guessing the water pump swap is just a simple: unbolt old pump, use gasket sealant on new pump + bolt in?

Hi guys, Coolant has begun leaking from the small hole underneath the Water Pump in my R32 GTS-T. From what I have read the leak is due to seals that have gone inside the Water Pump. Can anyone direct me to a 'How To' guide or write up on how to replace the water pump in a R32 or R33? I have searched but can only find brief remarks from guys that have done it. From what I understand it involves removing the CAS and Timing belt to get to it so I want to make sure I do this properly. Thanks, Steve.

I had the exact same problem with mine. I checked all the usual suspects and it turned out to be a faulty Oxygen Sensor. To test: Warm car up by leaving to idle in driveway. When idle starts to fluctuate unplug the wires going to the Oxygen Sensor (located on dump pipe behind turbo). Leave for a minute and see if your idle picks up. If it does your Oxygen Sensor needs replacing.

Sent a PM regarding Air Con Compressor + other bits a while back. Didnt get a reply.

My R32 recently started to make a whirring noise whenever the Air Con is turned on. The noise sounds similar to that of an old fridge, you know that "ratatatatatatat" noise. Almost like a pedestal fan when the plastic fins are clipping on something. The more I increase the fan speed, the louder the noise becomes. I tracked the noise down to the Air Con Compressor under the bonnet. With the Air Con off, the pulley spins freely and does not emit this whirring noise. With the Air Con on, the clutch on the compressor engages and I get this whirring noise. It is also worth noting that the actual Air Con works fine in the car even with this noise going on. I have taken the pulley off of the compressor and have inspected it. If I spin the pulley freely in my hands it turns for about 1.5 revolutions and emits a really faint grinding noise (have to hold my ear against it to hear this). Is it possible that when the stress of the clutch is put on the pulley that even this faint grinding noise could become amplified into the whirring noise that I have described? The other possibility which I am suspecting is that there may be bearing or something inside the actual compressor that is stuffed? If this is the case is it possible to get to it without having to remove the compressor? I currently have the clutch plate and pulley removed from the compressor. Any help would be appreciated.

Rofl I think he means Kilometres? What are you using to determine your oil pressure? The standard in-dash oil pressure indicator in the R32's is notorious for playing up. Before I installed an aftermarket gauge + sender, my in-dash oil pressure gauge was telling me that I had almost 0kg/cm3 while stationary at lights. If the car sounds + runs normal I think that it would be ok. Try installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge + sender for a more accurate reading.

Sounds like a good idea. I was going to replace my headlights as I am unable to adjust them but I might give this a shot when I get a spare weekend. Thanks for the tip

It is a good tip although unfortunately it did not help me in my case. I opened up my Passenger switch on multiple occassions and cleaned the contacts immaculately with fine sandpaper and contact cleaner. Each time I did this the switch would work fine for up to a week max before being dicky again. Must have been an issue with the switch housing not squeezing the switch and contacts together properly (be careful with those tabs). Eventually I cracked the shits and bought one off the forums here. Best thing I ever did

Thanks for that Nisskid. I understand how spacers allow the wheels to travel further, but am I still right to be concerned about extra rubbing as a result? See my attached picture (I apologise in advance for how crap it is). With the further travel of the wheel, wont it now rub on the castor rod + front sway bar (the pink bits on my pic)? As my wheels already do this when at lock I am wondering if spacers will even do anything for me. IE: having extra travel isnt go to do anything if the wheel is already stopped by other suspension bits. Sorry for stealing thread a little but hopefully we can all benefit from this

I have wondered about installing steering rack spacers on my car. The thing that I am not sure about is that if these spacers allow your wheels to travel further, wouldnt you run into problems with the wheels rubbing on the front sway bar and castor rods? My wheels are already rubbing the sway bar and castor rods at full lock. I have 17" wheels with 235's, car has been lowered slightly.

I would also be interested to hear the answers to your questions. I find the turning circle of my 32GTS-T to be pretty bad, not unbearable just worse than most normal cars on the road.

ROFL! That you Steve? Im looking forward to it Edit: hmm maybe not. Steve didn't have an R33

I actually had second thoughts when installing the Oil Pressure Gauge. I prepared another wire for the globe and was going to connect it to a 12v light switched wire. I thought I could simply tap into the dash light wire but found it was only getting 5V with the light switch on. In the end I got over it and wired the globe straight the 12v ignition wire. Gauge works fine, globe works fine. But lets see how long it lasts before it burns out

Thanks for the reply Pudz. Yea I have no problem with the gauge being lit up permanently, was more concerned about whether or not it had an effect on the gauge reading. I guess I will give it a shot and will see what happens.

How old is your Bosch 040 and filter? I had the same issue with my R32 at around the same rev's. Problem was fixed when I replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro.