jdmser

I went with the Centric Posi-quite ceramic pads. Feels like they were made for it. Not grabby at all but scrubs off speed quickly

The adapter I used was from Street Faction for the Z32. Total cost was under $500 us

I couldn't find pictures of a completed ctsv brake swap on a r32 before I did mine. I used the 4 piston calipers with evo 8 rotors.

I'm in the states so I can't go to Nissan and just pick one up. If anybody could help me out I would appreciate it greatly. I don't want to go back together without replacing it.

The lube that's included with the Claymagic kit is actually Automagic's 49 Body Shine which is a quick detailer.

I'm also going to a air to water setup. A forward facing plenum would actually be more piping. The car will be used for drag racing and maybe a little cruising so power is the main goal. Also, if you look at the back of the factory plenum there is a significant amount of runner built into it, that is lost when you go to a bolt on plenum.

I haven't ever seen anybody post flow bench results proving the forward facing plenums make more power. Until someone does I don't see a reason to give up any intake runner length.

May have hit a small snag. I started getting things put together and when I went to put the timing belt on it was pretty tight. I'm thinking that the 3mm head gasket took up too much of the slack in the timing belt.

Decided to go a different way than the Reimax gears. Picked up a set of cam gears while I was at it. Should start putting things together this weekend.

I'd like to know if there will be an option for the guys that already have one of the pumps to get a spline drive gear set?

Roy, I'm assuming the 260/8.8 were the Tomei procams and if so did you degree them to Tomei spec? I was running these when my engine was last together and heard that while the poncams can be dropped in that all of the procams need to be degreed. Are at least that's what I understood after translating a couple of Tomei Japans pages.

This was the email that was forwarded to me. What I had been told was that the housing and backing plate materials were changing. Housings being finished off this week and assembly will start again next week. I have about 40 back orders to fill but will advise as we are getting through them. Not long now. Regards Andrew McIntosh Sales Manager Nitto Performance Engineering

Anyone know why Nitto is redesigning it's oil pump? I've talk to the vendor I'm getting mine from and searched around but, I can't find an anwser.

Finally something to update. The block is back home. I'm going to pick up a set of the Reimax oil pump gears and then start on final assembly. Want to add on to the oil pan sump as well.

Had this spacer made up so the throttle body clears the valve cover. Was going to go with a phenolic material but, the thickness made doing it in aluminum easier. Also picked up some other goodies recently. solution to the pathfinder transmission shifter placement

Appreciate it. None of the US sites have much info on any of the awd setups since they were never sold over here. I've been searching bluebird sites since that's where the fwd guys source most of their engines from with no luck. I'll give the pulsar sites a go and see what I can come up with. Thanks again.

I'm in the planning stages of a new project and I'm having a hard time finding answers. The platform is going to be my tired but trusty little B14 200sx. I've decided to give her a new emerald blue paint job with carbon zg flares, hood, and trunk. For running gear, here's where it get's a little weird, I going to swap in a gtir rear end and avenir auto awd trans. I'm going to do a mild build on the engine with new pistons, rings and bearing to handle a 100 wet shot. I know the auto transmissions are weak but, I can't seem to find out how weak and if there are rebuild kits out to beef them up.

My welder tigged mine and said it welds more like cast steel than cast iron. He said he didn't even need to heat it up that much and let it cool down on it's own.

I'm planning on doing this to a fiberglass cowl for my S14. I like the Origin hood but the cowl looks to short for my intake and $729 for a frp hood is ridiculous.

I'm near St. Louis MO. Completely surround by 4 digit horse power making Mustangs and Camaros, it is the Midwest after all. I'm hoping that the Hardblok will give the cylinders a little more strength than a regular RB24. I had a chance to look at the block the other day and there's about 2" of water jacket left. I'll definitely be running a Precision Turbo. My builder was backed by them for a while so he has a few sitting around. He wants me to run his old 76mm Q trim. I think I need a better computer, oil pump, damper, and cam gears before I do.

Justin, Thanks for the input. I'm the first to admit I do things the hard way. I'm also horrible at the internet because I forget people can't see my thoughts. The trans will be temporary. Once I get the car running right and everything broken in I'll start looking at TH400 options. I also will be ditching the stock exhaust manifold for a HKS cast unit I've been sitting on. The head has already been ported and polished but, I'm waiting on valves. My builder wants to see what the heads got in it first and then we'll have a custom set made. As for compression I'll be sending the head off to have the combustion chamber cnc'd. If I enlarge it enough to match the bore while adding 10cc to each chamber it will drop the compression right in line. The Zex kit is set up to come on at 3k rpm and shuts off at 15 psi. If the solenoid ever gives me problems it will be replaced with a NOS unit, the nozzle as well. If I run across a deal maybe sooner. I'm also going to a external oil pump. After looking at the pump on the old Ford 4 cylinder my builder runs next to my N1 pump there's not doubt in my mind why RB pumps fail. Once all that is done and the intake is the only restriction left we will start looking at custom sheet metal options. As for the IRS, I've been thinking of buying a few sub frames and playing with the angle of the control arm mounts in an attempt to resemble the JUN drag member on their 8 sec S14. None of it is going to be easy but, I'm not sure I know how to do easy. Again, thanks for the input. Tom

X, can you elaborate on what isn't going to work?

I got this back yesterday. The builder has a special rig to bore out intakes. Only thing is I'm going to have to get a phenolic spacer milled in a wedge for the tb to clear the valve covers.

That's the cam setup I will be switching to after I have the head CNC'd to add 10cc and +1 valves. Either those or the 270/10.25 pro cams.

If heat expansion was an issue wouldn't the timing gear be prone to failure when the engine reached operating temperature?