ashr32

nope side vs top feed

hey guys, was going to put these in my rb20 but im getting a rb25 soon so these wont fit. The guy i bought these from said he got them cleaned and tested before selling them to me but i got them redone just to be sure. Sam Di Fazio from flowrite said they were perfect and ill flowing within 2-3%. he also confirmed that they were cleaned previously as the seals and caps had been replaced. the injectors cost me $280 and were from a r33 gtr with 35000 on the clock. the cleaning was $180 Quick sale price = $300 That's a bargain for 440cc perfect condition injectors. cheers, Ash

Hey guys, My rb20 is dying so no point holding onto my power FC. Its in perfect condition and the hand controller was purchased NEW from Nengun and has never been used aside from plugging it in the test the actual computer. Can see in car working with base map. Interstate buyers can be provided with a video clip if needed. PM or SMS me on 0422351590 Cheers Ash

Hey Mate, I'll give ya $170 pickup tonight if you are interested? give me a call 0422351590. my names Ash, where are you located?

hey mate, whats the cost for a set of handbrake shoes for a r32 gts-t cheers ash

Hi Guys, My alternator belt on my r32 gts-t is squealing its head off on cold start. when it starts i watch the volts gauge creep up from 12v and as soon as it hits 14v it stops and the squealing goes away. if i quickly put the lights or demister in the squeal comes back. ive tried to adjust the belt with the screw but cant really work it out. which way do i screw it to tighten it? do i have to loosen the mounting screw first? Please help its sounds aweful. Cheers

if its a r32 gts-t then dont worry there isnt one. it will run 10psi all day give or take a couple of psi bases on your current mods. Just remove it and plumb it back

If you have a r33 gts-t it will cause you to run at the low boost setting only. with the Solenoid connected it raises your boost after 4500rpm to 7psi from 4 or 5psi depending on your mods with a standard Solenoid.

Hey nisskid/SAU im looking at a set of rims for my gts-t Fronts are 17 x 8.5 +30 Rears are 17 x 9 +28, i already have tires 235/45/17 i have height adjustable coils but its lot very low at the moment. also stock guards how is it going to look? major issues? ive read the whole thread but couldnt find a combo that matched. Thanks guys?

forget that, go to the nissan website select spare parts and just email them. it doesnt require you to enter a vin number. but in answer to your question yes its on the Firewall. word of advice some of the nissan guys are good some are retards you have to be very specific with what you are asking for or have the part numbers ready. Good luck Ash

its next to the oil filter, ya cant miss it its a cylinder with a thread and a plug at the top. depending on what you plan to do there are a couple of things you need to think about. are you going to run an oil cooler and relocater later down the track? if so you have 2 spots for and oil temp and pressure on it. if not buy a brass T piece and have the stock sender at 1 end and the aftermarket on the other. then when you get an oil temp gauge you can remove the stock 1. this also means you can test the accuracy of the stock one against aftermarket. autobarn stock the T pieces and connectors for all RB's and itll cost ya like $20 good luck

Buyer hasnt got back to me so its still for sale Price Drop 1550 delivered

All PM's Replied *"BZKR33" yes i can bring it to your house to test and deposit is fine" sorry your inbox is fully* * first in best dressed dont miss out guys *

All PM's Replied * for interstate buys i can provide a video of it working in the car and show the hand controller with all the values on it*

Hey Guys, well im going to a rb25 so no longer need my PFC. comes with hand controller, its in perfect working order and i can put it on your car to show it works. still have the box and instructions for the hand controller as i purchased it new from nengun. Price: $1700ono im in no hurry to sell this so only serious offers please. will post anywhere FREE

thanks for the info 2LV8ETR that makes sense i guess, i have a catch can setup (non atmo) and ive never had any oil in it. its plugged in from the right side of the cam cover to the intake pipe which goes into the turbo. ive seen people connect it from the PVC to the left cam cover, is that a better configuration? to be honest guys i thought it was a intake manifold gasket leak but it looks pretty good. i just dont want to put it back together and find its the head the whole time. ive ruled out coils plugs ignited everything on the exhaust side coil loom injectors ecu all sensors seem normal (PFC hand controler) will be putting a new temp sensor in when i put the intake manifold back on any ideas guys? the car runs fine when cold but as soon as its warm it misses like a bitch. its been 4 months and i think ive forgotten how to drive. the only other thing is that its hard to start cold and when i pump the gas to get it going i get a pop/clunk from the intake, its not all the time and only with the stock ecu. pfc starts first time every time.

checked the intercooler and turbo all very clean and never had any oil issues before. i as i said i only just put new oil in and its only a few drops in each runner. i just dont want to put it together to find i gotta pull the head ya know?

Hey Guys, ive been trying to chase down a misfire at idle for the past month and i think ive tracked it down to an intake gasket leak. So i pulled the intake off (horrible job) there are so many things that need to be unscrewed that you can’t see including the dip stick. Anyway when i look at the lower intake there is fresh oil in each of the runners. its not much at all but my question is, is it an intake valve seal leak or something else? Also i didn’t remove all the coolant before i took it off so some coolant leaked out. Could some of it have gone in the intakes for the engine? How do i check? Its got new oil and id hate to have to change it again but with the oil in the intake will i have to pull the head anyway? im pretty lost now i just want it fixed so i need to know the best course of action. ive got a spare reco'ed head already but dont know much about whats been do to it. so do i just take it to a rebuilder and get it tested. much much would it be? what does it cost to get the head put on with a new head gasket? the intake and exhaust sides will be already off so that should save a bit i think? thanks guys

i have the exact same problem mate, if tried coils, igniter, plugs, exhaust manifold, pfc, injectors ect, im looking towards an intake manifold leak and am replacing all the gaskets this week ill let you know.

hey mate, i got flowrite to come out and do mine. top job and the guy loves a chat. $180 for 6 440cc. injectors. if got the number at home, PM me if ya need it

yeah thats what i thought. if its all the same parts it must just be push back a bit. ill test today and post later.

sirclip thats the name of it thanks, well im thinking there is to much play in that area but i can really do anything about that can i? its not like its a bolt and screw setup as its pressed

no what i mean is, there are 2 screw holes for the actuator to attach to the turbo. those holes are set so it just bolts on. this setup was working fine before it was stripped down and nothing has changed. there just seems to be some play from where the rod attaches to the flap. the rod is held on by a washer which has a split in it. (dont know the name) like i said its only about 1-2mm of play but thats enough it cause the high pitch sound. by the way its not the turbo, the wheel spins fine and isn't obstructed by anything

well ill have to check when my engine is back together but the 3 values are 35% 35% and 10psi for the wastgate to open. this gave me a solid 12.5psi in forth gear. its not an exact science ya just have to play around with it. temp plays a big part in it morning/afternoon so i have the hi/low switch set for the different conditions. some people have the hi low switch set for different gears also.

hey guys, after putting the whole exhaust side of the rb20det engine back together there is a rattle coming from the actuator. its a rb20 one on a r33 turbo. the sound is coming from the inside of the dump like the flap has 1mm of play in it. if i pull the actuator pipe towards the front of the car it goes away so not a big issue. also when i rev the car up and let the revs decrease i get a puff puff puff sound from the exhaust like its blocked or the flap isnt closing properly. anyone had this? any ideas as to a fix. the bolts which connect the actuator to the turbo are tight and dont have any adjustment to pull it tighter. thanks guys