Soltek2002

That's rather incredible and amazing value..... I wonder what it would cost to ship to NZ......

The Poncam is a drop in set up that doesn't need different springs. Maybe new springs may have helped but those will have to wait for another day. The other suspect was driveline slip at high power and torque

that does look very similar to the 285kw graph.That run was completed at 1.3 bar of boost. It has Tomei cams in it and the engine has 150k on it. Could it require new valve springs?

Might have a play around with it on Saturday night and make sure they are set to the same value

OK so I went back and got a tidy up this afternoon. I didn't manage to get a print out but will do this weekend if I get the chance. Final result was 254kw at 1.15bar he said this was the best result, with the best curve. And confirming this is with DIN standard. I believe he's done the best of his abilities with the knowledge he has and the car. Few Details Full Boost - 4250rpm at 1.15bar Top RPM increased to 6800 Limiting factors The drop in boost pressure while small is due to the boost controller. The Automatic transmission is eating power and made him tune in 4th* Something strange was happening in regards to a speed sensor (This may be half my issues) Drives normally when not on dyno though... ECU - slow to respond and he said it was a limiting factor Turbo - It wants a lot more boost. (I'll check with the manufacturer of the turbo as the 60-1 series is meant to only be responsive unto 22psi. It does have different wheels on it that may have changed this) You were right about this when vct was turned off at 4750 the power curve straightened out Yes the 285kw is from my car jus the name isn't changed on the sheet. and they pulled back due to the dip and high boost

Will have to find out if there is a NZ supplier of Convertors if this is what is giving me greif. I posted there and here as I know that these are the 2 largest knowledge bases. Soichi is giving it a tune up as the cold start was quite rough. Might have a play around with the VCT myself and see if that can bring the power in any differently though it will be a rough gauge through road testing.

Looked at both 98 tunes and E85 and took the reduction in power into consideration. I spent lots of time going over each one carefully. Sheep powered dynos... Lol

Soichi said he didn't like the auto and didn't like nistune. Its running Force10 (98 with 10% Ethanol) and I put the cams in for the torque curve. But they say that cams add 10rwkw

Yup it was locked in 3rd for tuning. I was expecting closer to 300kw after comparing it to alot of similar setups here on SAU. I tried to build the setup for responce with a large compressor wheel (similar to a T350) on a T3 shaft and slightly larger billet compressor wheel to help boost build quicker but still retaining the weight of a smaller wheel. The Cams were also there to bring that torque curve down lower slightly. I'm not sure what it would have been like stock cams On a side note there are plent of people on the SAU forums making 300kw+ with a Z32 AFM. I spent a week trawling both the Unopened 300KW+ RB25DET thread and the RB25DET Dyno sheets. Oh and trust me I have no doubt of Soichis ability with the RB hes a freaking genius with it.

The turbo is Journal bearing so this may count for some of the delays the turn is rated for 600hp and designed for boost levels below 22psi. I had some concerns about the boost as well but just wanted a few second opinions. Also the amount of boost in relations to the power seems less then I expected

Hey All Just recently had a Nistune computer installed in my car and tuned Mods Completed Stock Bottom End 150,000km (Good compression) Automatic Box with Shift Kit Stock Manifold Turbo - Turbonteics Series 60-1 billet 61/82mm comp wheel, F1-62mm ex wheel. 0.65 ex housing 540cc Injectors Z32 AFM Tial MV-R 44mm Wastegate directly welded onto exhaust housing Tomei Poncams - 260 degree Tomei FPR GFB Electronic Boost Controller Tial BOV Blitz FMIC There aren't any tuners really familar with the Nistune software in Auckland so I struggled to get it tuned. Ended up taking it to a highly respected Auckland based tuner who said he would give it a go. The graphs just seem a little weird to me but keen to hear your feedback

I want to try a different dyno and a different tuner for my next run. If it was something seriously wrong and it was lacking half its HP then I'm sure I'd notice. It would probably feel similar to driving my wifes Nissan March

Hey Mike That sounds like a good idea. If you want you can take mine for a spin and see how you think it compares Send me PM with your contact details and we'll sort something out

Death rattles?, would this sound like a misfire and would it be constant or intermittent? Oh I'm aware it will never be a race car but I'd like a base figure as I do plan on doing some basic mods as mentioned earlier in the thread. If the base figure isn't a true reading then as mentioned by PN-Mad "You might as well be looking at squiggly lines on a page". Its unusual here to do anything to a V35 or Stagea so I want to be different and I'm sure you can understand that as your build on a Stagea is amazing and but also very thinking outside the box. Cheers

divide by the ratio on the print out to get actual toque at the wheels (that's what I was told) sooo err 223nm of torque

Cheers I think I'll try a different tuner as although the tuner who ran this dyno is highly respected in his field it might be time to try another. I think he did the dyno in 1st and 2nd due to it being an auto.

Oh I totally understand that a dyno will never read flywheel power due to the loss of power through the drivetrain. Its just the amount of loss was unexpected possibly due to a trans issue or the idea the the hub dyno was set up incorrectly. The dyno sheet itself seems to read strangely as well but that could just be me. I'll redo the dyno after I have done the recommended changes by the tuner and see what comes of it A guy on SDU mentioned it could be a case of the timing chain actually stretching and that this was a common fault on the VQ25DD and the VQ30DD. Has anyone here had that issue?

So basically dyno was set up wrong for the engine.... Sigh $90 wasted haha

yeah it looked weird to me too. I'll be doing a few things to the car before I put it back on the dyno but if thats actually what my engine is currently putting out I'd be wondering where all my horses went has anyone on here with a 300GT been on a dyno?

Yup thats what I thought considering a RB20DE got 93kw :S

Hi All was at a Skylinesdownunder Dyno day here in Auckland this weekend and thought I'd throw the car on the dyno just to see what it was made of. After 3 runs the most the tuner was able to get out of it was 83.5KW which I was shocked at. So a bit about the car 2001 V35 Skyline 300GT VQ30DD Engine 5 SPD Auto 170k on the clock Running 95 Octane (Its my daily and lives in traffic) Has an O2 sensor issue but we cleared the ECU first. The tuner said Run 98, new intake, full exhaust and a Trans Flush I might break 110kw The engine standard is 185kw (at the fly) I'm just trying to find out where my other 100kw ran off to Any ideas? Dyno Sheet

Cheers thanks for the advice will try and hunt one down here in NZ

Hi I'm also consider going to a LSD in my car but its a 300GT. Its diff ratio is a 3.13 ratio so if I go to a quaife will that mean quicker acceleration but lower top end? Will be doing a engine swap next year but keeping the gearbox as its the same as the standard VQ35 so built to handle the power. Cheers

Hi All Long time member but not a bigger poster. Have owned my V35 300GT for about 2 years find them to be a great car and the Skyline Ozzie pages to in invaluable for info in reagrds to these cars. Skylines Downunder (NZ) hasn't got a big following of these cars yet so I'm always having to look else where. Cheers

Just a question in reagrds to the spark plugs NGK in NZ recommends a different type of plug compared to what is recommended here. It may be different with the VQ30DD vs the VQ35DE Here you recommend the LFR5AIX-11 while the NGK site recommends for the VQ30DD a LFR5AQP The big difference is the price the one you recommend is $9 each and the one NGK say to use it $50 each Any advice would be appericated as here in NZ Skylines Downunder don't have much to do with the V35 series