wind1

I have bought a Rb25 turbo to swap onto my rb20 and it looks almost identicle to the old one. Half way through the swap and now I notice. Is there any way of telling them apart numbers, etc. Not sure how old it is but think I might be going back to the guy I bought it off.

I just earthed the - wire from the pump and took it for a drive the problem started again, when I got home the pump just stopped. When I turn the key on the pump won't pre-charge the lines and the car won't start either now, I ran a wire to the pump directly again and it ran fine again, so must be something else in the pump circuit or the ecu.

I just ran a jumper from the - battery terminal to the - on the pump and the car ran ok for the past 5mins. I was thinking of cutting the - wire and earthing it in the boot somewhere. Wasn't this a mod that some people had done? just want to make sure that it will be cool to do it

I just ran a seperate wire to the pump from the battery with the car running and everything connected and it still started to make this loud whining noise but after that I disconnected the connector and ran the pump straight from the battery for about 5 minutes with no problems so the pump must be getting a signal from elsewhere or poor power to make this happen because the pump seems to be fine.

I might bypass the wiring, and put a wire directly to the pump and see how it runs. If this fixes it then maybe do it permanently.

Thats with cold fuel, even first start for the day it will do it within 2 mins.

1/4 tank

It still is using the stock relays, wiring, etc. In the morning it happened within 2 mins driving.

It had around a quarter of a tank when I filled it up put in close to 40 litres.

Just filled up the tank after the noise had started and it began to die like you asked, couldn't do it with the car running but it started making noises again within maybe 10 seconds of leaving the servo and had a little more power but was still really bad. I'm not to worried if it's noisy but the lack of power is annoying

I was just reading through the service manual and the EGT lamp is used in conjunction with the ECCS self diagnosis system so what it's flashing is actually a fault code from the ECU. I pulled the ECU out and put it into test and sure enough the lights both flash 55 for normal systems. I just need to go for a drive now and see what the code is while running. Explains why it was so inconsistent.

OK. I had an original fuel pump in my r32 and if I drove it for a long time, say an hour, it would start to die, but not stall completly, it just didn't have any power. I thought that this was maybe because of the fuel getting to hot from the pump because if I put more fuel in, it would start to work again for a while depending on how much fuel I added. I decided to swap the fuel pump with a Bosch 040 and now there is all new problems! If I start the car cold it operates fine and is heaps quicker aswell but after it warms a bit the pump starts making really loud noises and the car looses power again. I have run the pump directly from the battery for about 2 mins and it worked no worries at all, I then started the car let it idle for a while and sure enough it started making noises again within 5 mins, I also moved the return because I thought that it might be sucking in air but it didn't help. I also changed the filter and cleaned out the tank because I thought it was just getting blocked but it did nothing. Any ideas?

Looking at getting a RB25 turbo for my rb20, how much should the turbo cost me? Is it a good option or would I be better to save my money for something better? I only want it as a fun street car/drift car. Any thoughts?

I just looked at my cat and it looks fine, but only from the front side haven't looked in the other end. Could the muffler block the exhaust at all?

It's pretty much constantly going on and off, but in inconsistent flashes. I might pull out the cat and have a look it might be that.