guska

I'm in the mountains, Lawson. Will travel, I just want to get the damn thing Blued

$150, pick it up next weekend?

I have a HR31 that needs a Blue Slip (brought it over with me from SA). I need someone who's not going to 'notice' the silvertop 20DET, Haltech, Front Mount, 040, K&N CAI kit or Koni/Bilstien standard design lowered and stiff suspension. It's smack on the lowest legal in SA, but I'm not sure about NSW. Any PMs with names/numbers/contacts would be greatly appreciated, and the person supplying the guy that finally does it will earn themselves a 6-pack of their chosen alcoholic beverage.

Powershift is designed for those times when you are towing or need to get up a hill or overtake. It won't huret leaving it on all the time, just means that it will shift later when your giving it some.

I'd be ringing a trans place if your worried about the power shift. As for the bolt, just drill it out, and heli-coil it. Easy. Or if you can drill it out without stuffing the thread, then it's even easier.

Hey, cheers. I have all that, no issues there. Just need to know the dimensions of the pallet/skid it would be going on, and the weight. Any ideas? I can't get a quote without it.

On a similar topic to this, is there any other AFM that would work? RB one maybe if the plug was wired right? I ask because I want to put a pod on for that fully hektik induction noise and have an RB20DET AFM sitting here doing SFA.

Awesome! If there's anything missing/needs replacing, I'd rape the one I have, so a dizzy isn't a problem, it looks like it's been rebuilt not long ago (rotor isn't blackened at all and it's pretty much spotless inside. I'll ring a couple of transport places tomorrow and PM you.

Am looking for a complete engine that I can just bolt in, plug in and turn the key.

nvm, I found threads, too much head f**k. Will find an L24 or 28. NA of course.

Right, worked out that the 3 head bolts that broke are fused to the head, not the block. I'm going to cut my losses and grab another motor. PnPL want $600 for one. But, what I want to know is, would it be a complete head f**k dropping an RB30 into it?

Looks like something like this is what I'm going to have to use. Anyone know where they are available locally? And perhaps at a better price (brand not an issue)

The manual wasn't available when I looked before, but the '77 Datsun 280Z one is downloading now.

I have the chain held with a couple of coat hangers through the links, so it's not going anywhere. The problem is, I can't get the cam gear off, as there is no compression to stop the motor from turning. It's also auto, so no chance to putting it in gear either. Is there a tensioner or something that I can access down further? I don't want to go pulling the radiator and everything out if there's no point.

Still having trouble getting the head off. How do I loosen the timing chain? I can't see any way of accessing the lower half.

Hey Seb, let us all know when you do, coz I know I'd be keen for a full set for the coupe.

yeah we worked that one out afterwards. Going to grab a couple ballpark quotes today. Either that or I'll have another crack on Sunday.

Well, after a big effort by myself and 2 31 club members (both mechanically minded and experienced), we managed to snap 3 head bolts off, discover a rounded off manifold bolt, an inaccessable manifold bolt, remove the bottom shield with side cutters, get completely filthy, lose the throttle linkage split pin, lose several bolts and nuts (should be able to find them) bang innumerable fingers, make a huge mess, get wet, pull off a few hoses, become completely jealous of small Asian fingers, pull off a heat shield, and get a lot of shit in my eyes and mouth. AND THE F***ING HEAD IS STILL ON! IT SHOULDN'T BE THIS F***ING HARD! Time to get a tow to a professional to have the head removed. Let someone else get crap in their eye. Then I need to address the issue of the snapped off bolts in the block. *runs off to go look at tool catalogs*

Gah! Plans change too much! I'm rip[ping the head off tonight, and my mate is going to stick it in the A1 priority list, so I can have it machined and ready to slap back on by saturday. Will be alspping it on on sunday. The original head that is, not the 280 one.

Well, it's crunch time. Wouldn't start this morning, so after making sure all the ignition was dry, I did the next thing on my personal "why won't you bloody well start?" checklist. I pulled the plugs. 5 out of 6 of them were wet with oil, and the one that wasn't was black. Cleaned them all and scrubbed them down, making sure I didn't move the gap (done it a few times over the years now, getting good at recycling plugs). Bung em back in, turn it over, nothing. Pull a plug out, wet again. Look closer, fresh load of gunk down the side of the block coming from between the head and block. Now using my own brand of backyard logic, that, and the fact that it was blowing a butt load more smoke on friday than normal (like, I had a cloud following me that I you couldn't see though), tells me that the head gasket has had a guttfull and blown out properly and is has filled the chambers with a lovely oil/water mixture. Have now ordered a gasket and manifold gasket from Repco, which should arrive Thursday. I then get to play the "oh dear god let it just be the gasket" game. Now... what do I use to get the gasket off of the head and block without putting huge divots in them? As machining is for the moment, completely out of the question, and the current head has to go back on as is (sans whatever crud is in the journals).

Mine seems to be the (blown) head gasket finally giving up and filling my chambers with oil/water. Was blowing a LOT of smoke on Friday when I last drove it, so it makes sense, and the plugs were (and probably now are again) completely wet with oil. Looks like it's off to get a new gasket set.

I have a similar problem with my L24E 30. Turns over fine, but no fire, not even a kick. WHen I turn the ignition on, I can hear the pump run, but nothing. Have checked all fuses, and done a quick re-arrange of relays (as much as I can, I don't have any spare green ones for the pump, ignition and ECU). It started and ran fine on Friday, but after sitting all weekend, I went to start it to go to work this morning, and all it did was turn over. Sounded normal, but just won't kick.

Is notching the bores a headf**k process? If I gave the machine shop the car, could they do it easy without too much rooting around? Obviously be an engine out job, but is it a motor apart job? Time is beginning to become a factor here, I don't know how much longer this motor is going to last with the head in this condition. Something else the guy who runs the workshop next door said, was that "it's damn near impossible to crack an L series head" how accurate is this information? Is it more likely to be a gasket than the head?

Shit, 86mm across the chamber. but 82mm across the actual valves. What are the chances of it working? And if I try it and it doesn't it's going to bend valves the first time I turn it over isn't it?

Seriously, I didn't have a whole lot of choice. I was at the "bugger it, I'll just grab a gasket and hope like hell thats all it is" stage when blacktown wreckers reared its ugly head up and happened to have one. I'll go measure.