Cake

225's are fine on stock r33 gts-t 16x6.5" rims. i ran them on my old r33 all round, and didn't have any problems with everyday street use. can't comment whether they understeered or not, didn't take it on the track. Nitto NT 555-R's, in 16" are available in only one size - 245/50/16. They fit on any 16" rim between 7" and 8.5" wide. That's too wide for a stock gts-t rims. R32 GT-R stock rims are 16x8s, i'd be looking for some of those or something of similar size.

hahaha that is some weird shit last night it redirected to 7perth today tonight page

yeah saw the ad with guys doin wheelies and stoppies at traffic lights and quick burnout. by the way probably wont be on monday night because they said 'today tonight this week' interesting to see where the url http://www.perthextreme.com redirects to now...

can't help you with brakes but 225's go nicely on stock r33 gts-t rims. protects them from curbs etc too if u park up against it.

Missinglink, did your boost increase by itself after the intercooler install too? also what over mods do you have, and what boost are you running? cheers

Messiah, i have fmic, full exhaust with split dump, pod and that's it.. stock boost control and turbo. when the 2stage stock boost control kicks in it likes to boost right up to .85 or .9 bar sometimes, instead of .6 - .7 like it used to with stock dump and intercooler, i think its boosting too high because the wastegate can't flow enough through my split dump pipe. so i want to disable the stock solenoid to see if it will just stay down at .5 bar even at high rpm, like it does below 4800rpm, sits there perfectly. here are 2 pics 1st pic is stock setup (how i've put it back to now). pipes in pic are stock intercooler pipes, but i have the hoses going to same places anyway so this pic will do. 2nd pic, is how i attempted to bypass the solenoid. this is when the car ran like shit and was boosting very high, even at low rpm. what i don't understand is, why does my car run fine when the solenoid has the hoses connected to it, and then when i bypass it, simply by not connecting to the solenoid with the hoses, and running the line directly into the wastegate actuator line it runs totally differently? i must be doing it wrong. basically i just wanna run it like a stock r32 gts-t, which has no boost solenoid stock so the way to do it is, block off the hose coming out of the bov return pipe, and just run the line directly from the intake intercooler pipe, to the wastegate actuator? seems that it doesn't like the hose from the bov return pipe being directly teed into the wastegate actuator line, but is ok if it passes through the solenoid, and then back into the wastegate actuator line. seems strange to me. one more question, what do you people out there with bleed valves and ebc's do, with regard to bypassing the stock solenoid? also do you leave the wires plugged in or unplug it?

yeah i just want to remove the boost solenoid. i have tried unplugging it but i didn't notice a significant difference which was odd. when installing an ebc, is it completely bypassed, or still has a line going through the top and blocking the bottom one? thats what i tried, connecting the line off the wastegate actuator to the inlet piping, but there's also that line from the pipe (purple) in pic, bov return i think it is, that's tee'd into the wastegate actuator line -> inlet intercooler pipe. thats when the car ran like shit when it was setup like this.

Ok I want to run the minimum possible boost, without the factory 2-stage boost control solenoid raising the pressure by 2psi over 4800rpm. I will be fitting an EBC soon anyway, but this still needs to be done first. If you look at this diagram (bottom pic only), http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/atta...s=&postid=97198. I set it up identically, to that, except i did not bother blocking off the solenoid outlets (as shown in red on the diagram). The hose drawn in blue was connected directly into the wastegate actuator line as shown. Now this caused my car to run extremely weird. I have heard of leaving the line connected to the top outlet of the solenoid, and then blocking off the bottom line connected to the solenoid with a screw or something, how is this different? Twice i had complete power loss when boost came on at about 3000rpm, it felt like it had stalled hard, like a mini whiplash, but the engine didn't stop, and no lights appeared on the dash. Also it was running excessive boost, bov was louder than ever, and at about 3000 revs boost was up at around .7bar, with only 60% or so throttle, when usually it sits at max 0.5bar under 5k rpm even with the factory 2-stage boost solenoid connected as stock, seemed as though wastegate didn't want to open. Car actually felt very sluggy and hesitant when it came onto boost like it wasn't happy. Now I have connected it back to stock, leaving the solenoid connected and plugged in. How can i successfully completely remove the stock solenoid and just run the minimum possible boost? Also what to do with the power plug to the solenoid, leave it plugged in or unplug it? Any helpful knowledge and photos of your setups would be great.

most rice boiz just want em for the fulee seek CF look bro

yeah i believe it, first time my dump pipe was taken off, one of the studs snapped, not a fun or cheap experience. sounds like good service to me

mine did this tonight, felt f**ed last week i had fuel pump upgraded, spark plugs changed to ngk coppers at 0.8gap... car never used to do this before, and even yesterday i have revved it out on full boost and it was fine. happened tonight on 3/4 throttle on boost at low revs 2-3k, engine fully loses power and gives u mini whiplash and then keeps going along as if nothing happened. if i keep it off boost until revs are higher than plant it, it's ok. also since had fuel pump upgraded and plugs changed, seems as though theres a slight miss at idle every so often. can feel a slight pulse every now and then at idle. any ideas?

farkk yeh respray the door, nah give it a polish see how it goes

i have a turbosmart dual port fitted on my r33 gts25t. the way mine is setup is, i still have the plumb back pipe connected, but i do not have the blanking flange installed (the one which reconfigures to either plumb back or atmospheric dump only). the dual port bov has two chambers, the lower one is for plumb back venting, and the upper chamber vents to atmosphere out the trumpet. if it vents at low boost, it will only plumb back into the air intake. if it vents at high boost, the valve will be pushed up past the lower chamber and vent out the trumpet to atmo. so your answers is, a) works fine

pretty damn sure that they fit... if they're stock falcon ones, also camry stock rims fit i think. but NOT commodore rims.

my hicas light does the same thing and has been for a year and a half... light comes on after driving over about 60km/h in a straightish line for about 5km. keep forgettin to get it checked out. pretty sure its the hicas sensor behind the steering wheel though is not plugged in or setup properly (steering wheel is stock). car handles perfectly and it hasn't caused any problems. drives perfectly straight and no different once the light appears. going to try get it sorted soon though, just since the light is annoying especially at night.

i also have the video clip of the whole ad on my old comp ill try find it

Just letting anyone know with Fox 1 channel, that the 1st of 3 Drag Combat 2004 series will be on tv tomorrow night. http://www.autosalon.org/dc-news.asp "Finally we have the green light for the first of three one-hour programs on the 2004 BF Goodrich Drag Combat series. Make sure you’re sitting in front of your television on May 11 at 9.30pm Fox Sports 1. If you miss it, the program will be replayed on May 15 at 6.30am Fox Sports 2." "The program will feature highlights from Sydney’s Rd 1 at Western Sydney International Dragway and coverage from Rd 2 at Willowbank the following weekend."

thread revival time

coincidentally i was readin this thread earlier today too. Hicks, this mate of yours, is his name Andrew Kirk by any chance? Reason I ask is, this guy who went to my school did the exact same on the freeway in his old mans VT going 200 bounced off barriers and had mates in car, about 2 years ago.

just get a custom single piece dump and front pipe, goto quickfit exhaust in morley, theyve done a lot of perth sau members cars and heard nothing but good feedback. i can't see how the apexi n1 is better, it's different.. it is louder than your super drager would be. your super drager catback is 95mm (3.74in) and apexi n1 is only 80mm (3in), unless u want it louder then just leave the catback.

Road Rage 3 has drifting in it... i bought it yesterday its not bad and only $29.95 at harvey norman. http://www.megalong.com/games/game.asp?gameID=5738 as the review says, if ur not into drifting its nothing special but otherwise its quite fun. has a clutch/handbrake button so u can pop clutch to drift, similar to gt3 except this one seems to have more of a clutch dump wheelspin effect. has markII, aristo, cefiro, r32/33/34gtr's, 180sx, s13 silvia, s15, supra, sprinter etc u win mods like 2way lsd, can change bov etc. also u can pick mismatched wheels front and rear, and remove the wing from the bootlid on cars. quite cool game for the price.

hahah i bet he isn't the only one that has done that

last i heard was late may or early june, but im not sure whether they will allow drifting on the surface there just yet.

yeh dont bother learning on the street it will end up in tears goto one of the drift training days that ken runs at the mc motorsport pad. should be even better when the new complex is built.

i just like the exhaust tip more photos from the rear pls