Cake

that is gold!

doubt they'd look too flash on an r34 gtr in a display either mikey

RB's love limiter, especially RB20's. You can't deny how good they sound smashing rev limiter. I know of a certain daily driven '89 R32 GTS-t RB20DET pushing 300rwhp that hit rev limiter hard several times per day for about 2 years while a mate owned it.. and it's still alive. How about most drift cars, they sit on rev limiter half the time they are on the track! Haha

pay at the pump rocked... swipe your card, fill up and you're away. on the weekend the bp shop attendant was pushing me to buy 2 bottles of V instead of just the 1 can that i wanted... so that I would save $4c/lt off the fuel i just put in. simply another bullshit marketing strategy to boost sales. it's only going to 'save' you money if you were planning on purchasing the items in the first placet hat entitle you to discounts.

SL33K GTS from WA had a fake one on his car.. looked alright actually

It's for my R33 GTS25t making 255+rwkw. The stock LSD is giving me the shits now... quite often single spinning through corners. Even when they do both spin, the inside wheel will still often spin significantly faster, sling shotting the car to one side. For those of you with a 2way LSD in particular, how do you find it being driven on the street? My car is primarily street driven but also sees the drag strip and skidpan every now and then. Wouldn't mind taking it to the track for some drift practice too. My main concern is its locking up on de-acceleration, especially in the wet as i've heard a few bad stories about this ending up in tears. I can imagine it being a handful in the wet, but i'm sure with extra caution it can be done? Would prefer a 2way if it can be lived with, but if it's too brutal for daily duties i'll settle for the 1.5 It will be a Kaaz model either way. Any experiences or feedback is appreciated

i think street force built that LS1 R33 which has a cannon muffler exiting on each side. give them a call. i'm sure any competent performance exhaust shop could make it, not sure how much room you'd have for piping underneath the right side of the car though.

would just weld the extra length of pipe on required. if you end up selling it later down the track it will just suit an r33 then and not an r34.

just keep an eye on the knock meter... i've been driving mine around for 2 weeks on the base map. the powerfc base map appears to run stupidly rich, just going by the rate that it's guzzling fuel even with conservative driving!

wb dan... you lucky bastard

Last week i had an Xtreme brass button 5 puck clutch with a 2500lb pressure plate with the stock flywheel machined. Driving it around for the first few days it was very bitey and would shudder quite hard on slow take-offs in first gear with low revs. I have been driving it as soft as i can to wear it in for the first 500km or so. Over the last few days it's become noticably softer and doesn't really shudder anymore. It's really easy to take off softly now with minimal throttle and doesn't seem to bite as hard. It's done nearly 500km now of soft daily driving kms. Is this normal or does it sound like there's a problem with my clutch, by becoming softer like this?

yes... just don't drive it too hard

mayhem's selling a s2 dash: http://www.antilag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8207

aswell as the above mentioned essential supporting mods, would you also add a hard intake pipe to the list? or for those of you with the GT-RS - is the standard rubber pipe from the afm to the turbo holding up without sucking closed?

should run ok half atmo half plumb-back... stalling really depends how you drive the car, just don't put the clutch in and let the revs fall right down after the bov has just vented.

well from personal experience, i've had it in my series II r33 gts25t for about three years now. when i first bought the car it had some unknown oil in the gearbox and it had the famous 1st to 2nd crunch, especially when cold. ever since then i have run redline lightweight shockproof in the box and it has been smooth as. it actually took about a month for the crunch to completely disappear after putting redline in. i just drained it a few weeks ago and put some more fresh oil in. i'm a fan

going to upgrade to a 5puck ceramic clutch with 2500lb press plate, and was wondering whether the standard flywheel should still be up to the task, assuming it's in good condition? or is it best to upgrade to a new lightweight aluminium / chrome moly flywheel at the same time?

thanks guys, for those of you that did upgrade your pipe... did you get it custom made, or are there some pre-fab ones available? cheers, Chris.

I know of a dudes Walbro pump that recently failed, which then caused his engine to lean out and it popped. Apparently the Walbro pumps should be fine, but beware of Walbro imitations as there are supposedly some floating around!

Couldn't find any information on this when searching... I have heard that on an RB25DET, the rubber flexible pipe from the AFM to the turbo often sucks closed at high boost? What are its limits in either power or boost levels, before it needs to be upgraded? cheers, Chris.

of course it's for track use

lol @ leyton hewitt c'mons

seen that 33 in the last pic that's parked outside, around a fair bit. sitting very low on 18's!

will chuck some posters up at uni this week

bash it