one8tsx

Also check that the AFM is plugged in properly. It does a similar thing if the AFM is disconnected.

http://www.oilrecycling.gov.au/directory.html

Don't know about the smoke test, but the part in the picture is a fuel pressure regulator.

If you do the air con diagnostics, remember to do it in the sun or shine a light onto the light sensor or else it will come up faulty. I'm guessing that your interior temp sensor wasn't reconnected. My friend had the exact same symptoms and was fixed by connecting the interior temp sensor.

You should bleed them or else the master cylinder will overflow when you push the pistons back into the calipers. Unless you take fluid out of the master cylinder (might aswell just bleed them then).

When cruising ( in closed loop mode) it is meant to cycle from rich to lean. That indicates that your oxy sensor is working properly. When gunning it ( open loop) it should read rich. The middle of the gauge is stoic (14.7:1). Only thing is, because nearly all factory oxy sensors are only narrow band, they can't tell the difference between a little lean and mega lean. Wheres proper dyno air/fuel gauges are wide band and measure from 10:1 to about 20:1 or so.

Definately isn't standard, Almost all road cars come with a full faced clutch, not a 3 button puck like that. Looks like lots of meat left to me.

I had Shogun Racing do my compliance work about 1 1/2 years ago. Good blokes. Think they have changed their name now though. I was personally at the docks area when they unlocked the container my car was in. Went thought "quarantine" (sprayed it with a pressure washer for 5 mins) then drove off. Try to pick up a car this way, it's hard for anything to get stolden if you're right there.

Yep, they're called scrivets (combination of screw and rivets). Brought some at a hardware store once (Bunnings).

Could be the immobiliser, but they usually don't cut out the headlights or interior lights. Check the fusible links if skylines have them.

You can't rev above about 2000 without a working AFM, you can idle alright though. Basically, it's not driveable without a working AFM.

When it cranks, does it crank slowly? My guess is that something is draining the battery when you leave the car, and making it hard to start later on. But, when you leave it off for just a few seconds, it'll restart no problems because it hasn't had time to drain the battery. Use a multimeter and check if there is significant current flow from the battery when the car is off.

I agree on the point about street registered cars. From the EC raceway site, "Competitors are able to race their street registered cars down the ¼ mile drag strip at Eastern Creek in a safe and controlled environment." I'm pretty sure you can't legally register a 8 sec rotor with slicks for street use. I'd like to see what they get done for if defected! Should have a night with proper street cars, no slicks, no NOS. Most of us don't run 10 sec 1/4s but still want to run at the creek, and its good to line up with a car thats at least close to the same league.

Usually you need to unplug your TPS when checking timing, not sure if it applies to skylines though.

sr20 180sx should use the same plugs as a 200sx. NGK PFR6B-9. Platinum plugs at are about $20-$25 each.

On a 180, i remember the signal wire to be the black middle one on the connector that goes to the 02 sensor. The white wire is ground, and the red is +

A friend of mine got defected for a loud exhuast, even though the car was fully engineered. Friend tried to explain he had an engineers cert but the cop just said 'I don't care'. I should be a qualified mech eng in 2 years, how long does it take to get a license from the RTA to engineer cars?

Only the RTA can do a 3rd tier inspection. XCUZME and DR GTR is right, they don't care about mods, it's just mostly checking that it isn't a rebirth. I think there are only 4 inspection stations in NSW. You should pass easily. You might need a blue slip aswell. Special price for imports, $100+!

Sounds like a blown fuse to me. Triple check the fuses next to the battery. The parkers/dash are on one circuit. It's usually easy to see if a fuse is blown or not, but you should check with a test light or multimeter.

I think it's T2 aswell. So T25 T25g or a t28 should bolt on.

I've seen 'aircon disinfectant cleaning spray' for sale at an autoelectrician's workshop before. Supposed to be able to remove mildrew/odours etc. Never tried if it works though.

Tip: make sure you can remove the filler before you remove the drain plug. Not recommended to drive down to a workshop without g'box oil when you find out that you couldn't fill it up.

There is supposed to be a owners manual that comes with every grey import. Compliancers should have given included a copy. So if you don't have the manual, it's your right to have a copy of it, for safety reasons of course. Manual shows you how to use a seat belt, child restraint, etc.

Obviously check the bulb first. Might just be a coincidence that your were hooking up your boost gauge and it blew at the same time. Shouldn't be a fuse, or else the other headlight wouldn't work aswell.

So sorry to hear chunksmurray. I see your car in the car park often, looks nice. Probably not many people walking around during stuvac.