Chris-06R

Ok, this is just a rumour I've heard, I wonder if anyone else knows anything else about it... The rumour is Gary Wilmington has left wakefield, bought some more land nearby at Marulan, and is building a driver training facility. The plan is that this will eventually be turned into a full race track, based on the old Amaroo circuit. Discuss...

That would not suprise me at all. I spent a few days last week working down at the Sydney Import docks and the guys there seem to make the most of anything exotic that comes through - they had a '70s corvette stingray that it seemed everyone had to have a go of, revving the carp out of it, and they were also doing happy laps with a r34 GTR... You think taxi drivers are wild....

Duncan posted this up in this thread... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...32+oil+pressure Although its for the RB26, I'd assume thats the general answer for all RBs. And of course, thats assuming your oil pressure guage is working accurately.

Thanks for the help all... We had a go at trying to find the problem on the weekend, but there's still nothing obvious. We drained the oil, pulled off the oil filter (thats a whole story in itself -damn it was on tight), took off the spark plug cover etc and had a look at the top of the pistons with a bore-oscope. Also stuck it in the sump to see if there was anything obvious, but there was nothing majorly wrong in there either. There was no metal in the oil either, so we're still stumped. We've put it all back together, and it drives fine, and the knocking seems to be very faint, non-existent when cold. The biggest issue seems to be the oil pressure - from what I've read on here the guages aren't very accurate, but if mine is, it seems that could be the problem. When ever I'm cruising along then just coast/brake gently to a stop the oil pressure (which usually sits on about 2 cruising, to highest i've ever seen, 4) just drops right down to sit just above the 0 mark. What we think could have happened is a faulty bearing is causing this oil pressure problem, and when it seized it was either that bearing or a good one that 'grabbed' and stalled the motor - as it was under no load all it did was stall it, and wouldn't allow the starter motor to turn the engine over again. The battery definately wasn't flat, because it kept trying and trying, until I finally got the car to turn over, then start. So what to do? We're thinking of pulling the motor out at some stage to change the bearings, and oil pump. Anyone have any suggestions as to whether I should upgrade to something other than the standard Nissan Rb20 one? Or should I be looking at doing something else - if someone says rb25 conversion I might be tempted

Well, I was close... Needed to lower it a bit more, and it looks like they widened the nose of it too. Hey, I got the wing right, rear guard pretty close, front winglets and the positions of the stickers

Thanks for the replies all. My Dad and I have been trying to figure out what the problem is tonight, something weird is going on. The knocking is still there, but only very faint, and once the motor is warmed up. It still idles and revs fine, but yeah, as I said, for some reason it stalled yesterday then it seemed it had seized because the starter motor could not turn it - it just clicked rapidly, until finally it seemed to budge it on about the 20th try after about 5 mins and it started back up. I'm not really keen on driving it the way it is, but then again it seems to be running ok at the moment. We will drain the oil as soon as we get a spare hour or two to look at it. One other question - the workshop manual says to remove the sump you need to lift the engine off the engine mounts to get it out - is this actually necessary? Thanks again. Edit - to answer a few questions - All the guages were normal, oil pressure was showing about 1.5-2 the whole time (on the standard guage) which it always seems to hover around, and I was keeping an eye on it because of the knocking sound. - I agree that spun bearings aren't going to heal themselves - is it possible the lack of oil caused it to bind, which stalled the motor actually saving it from spinning the bearing? I was coasting gently to a stop with the clutch depressed...

Ok guys, I know this has been covered before, but I'm after some advice given my particular situation... Over the last few weeks I have noticed a gentle knocking coming from the engine of my car once it gets the oil temperature up. It hasn't been too loud and comes and goes, and since I have only been doing very short trips lately I don't think it ever got hot enough to notice. Anyway, yesterday I was on a longer trip, in the heat, and the knocking was back, louder than before (but still not alarmingly bad). I had a listen and decided 'ok before I drive this again I have to figure out what this is from' but sure enough, after accelerating just into boost range then coming to a stop at the next set of traffic lights the car stalled, and would not start again - to the point I think it had seized as the starter motor could not even turn it over. I eventually got it started again (must have cooled out enough to loosen up), and moved it out of the traffic and parked it in a side street. I can start the motor, and the knocking is not even there when the oil temp is cool, however once it heats up it comes back. I'm not driving the car atm 'til I can get it fixed. So the question - what to do? It seems I have most probably got a bearing problem as its coming from the bottom of the motor, and that fact that it seized backs this up. I'm thinking - drain the oil out, check for filings, pull the sump off and have a look - what should I be looking for and how will I know how bad it is? Thanks for any answers.

Could it look like this??? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t191179.html

Thanks for the kind words all... Haha, I'd already started this the other day - Just finished it off tonight. Hopefully this one is bigger and better... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t191179.html

Hey guys, another photoshop I just finished off. I'd already started it the other day but lingeringsoul's request in my other thread prompted me to finish it off. Hope you enjoy - this time its WALLPAPER SIZED!! OMGWWTFBBQ!!##@!#! Original... Photoshop - Note the widebody, rollcage, Rear wing and front splitter, Intercooler etc.

Would you consider splitting it up? I'd be interested in just the calipers

the over-the-counter price I listed at the start of the thread

Hi, There wasn't enough interest to warrant a group buy however I bought a kit for myself anyway - a solid track day at wakefield and the brakes performed perfectly all day, and have on the road since. If you're interested contact Darren or Bruce at Brake Lining and parts on (02) 9790 2003 (website is http://www.performanceroadandraceparts.com.au/)

Thanks for the kind words... I'll hafta have a look at these new pics - could be a new challenge. Djr- I personally like the winfield scheme from '92 the most, but I thought that wouldn't be appropriate in this day and age I'll have a look at some alternate paintschemes

Hi all, I put this in another thread but thought I'd chuck it up here for some feedback too... Let me know what you think Original...

^^^hmm shouldn't you be using a larger pad? So that the pad makes use of the entire available disc surface? I've done the 324mm upgrade on my gts-t and i'm using a bigger pad (had to machine the ends off it to get it to fit) but it makes use of the whole surface of the disc...

I think a few of you are missing the point here.... The Z-tune is an extremely rare car and I feel should be left exactly the way Nismo made it. Sure it COULD be made to go faster, but why would you bother? Do you think that the Phase III GT-HO being auctioned off by shannons (Sydney Motor show) would be worth as much if it wasn't original and someone had done their own backyard mods? If you want to build a monster GTR buy a run-of-the-mill one (if there is such a thing) and mod that; the Z-tune should be left as is.

"GTR TO JOIN V8 SUPERCAR CHAMPIONSHIP IN 2008 In a landmark decision today, AVESCO has decided to allow Nissan to compete in the Australian V8 Supercar Championship from the beginning of the 2008 season. Gary Rogers Motorsport will campaign the all new 4WD GTR with backing from Nissan. "It's been a long time coming, and its what much of the Australian public want to see" Gary Rogers said today. "Some of the purists my kick up a stink when they think back to the dominance the GTRs had in the Group A touring car days back in the early 90's, but its time that we branched out from the taxi series and got some diversity". It is unknown what the deal between AVESCO and Nissan Australia was worth, however there are rumours that the contract was worth an eight figure sum." Had you going there didn't I?

Thanks heaps for that

Thanks, I went to a local Midas but they wanted me to give em the old one (don't have the old one, hence me wanting a new one) or a template of the exhaust size and shape. I'd rather only pull the exhaust off once so wasn't keen on that idea.

Nothing to add to this thread, but a semi-related question - Anyone know where I can get the gasket that goes between the front pipe and the cat in Sydney? Thanks

I found what looks to be an ID card or something the belonged to the previous owner in Japan. Perhaps i should post a pic so that someone can translate it for me?

Hmm, not sure if you realise, but that L/100km value is supposed to go down Unless you were proud of using more fuel? In which case I am proud to use ~30L/100km on the track

I already drive with my lights on all the time.... Increased visibility Ftw.

I think he mentioned in the group buy thread he was going away...