Chris-06R

Perfect offset... Took me a moment to figure out why the number plate was backwards... damn you have some clean mirrors

Thanks for the informative replies all, Anyone know who supplies them in Sydney 100% plug and play so I don't have to take them somewhere to get them skimmed down to 10.5mm? Also, were those Xspurts a straight swap?

Hi all, Looking to upgrade injectors with a possibility of flex fuelling the car in the future. Only aiming to make -7 power though (300-330?kw) at this stage. I've been looking around and it seems like ID1000s are a good option and pretty well priced, but I'm not 100% sure on exactly what I need and where to get them. I'd like to keep running the stock fuel rail (I see no need to replace it and don't want any trouble with the rozzers) Apparently stock GTR fuel rail is 10.5mm (?) and ID1000s come in 11 and 14mm. I also would need the 60mm length correct? I believe some distributors guarantee a complete plug and play fit by machining them down to fit the stock fuel rail and supplying a rubber cushion which goes on the bottom of the injector. Can anyone tell me anywhere that does this? I'd prefer to buy locally/off one of the forum sponsors as long as their prices are reasonably competitive. A few different options on the 'net - none of these specifically mention all of this so it might be worth some e-mails. Anyone found a supplier that does a direct plug and play kit? http://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/Injector-Dynamics-%22-ID-%22-1000cc-Injectors-suit-Skyline-GTR-RB26.html http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Injector-Dynamics-ID1000CC-Skline-RB26DETT-R32-R33-R34-/390327584570?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae156473a#ht_3832wt_1163 http://www.theboombopshop.com/Injector-Dynamics-1000cc-89-02-RB25-RB26-p/id1000-rb26.htm

hmm i'm actually suprised they're not closer/quicker than V8SCs... given that they are quicker at most other tracks. Does it come down to talent (and balls) or are the cars just not quite there? I thought V8 supercars were pretty much eligible for the category?

Out of interest, what's the lap record for sports sedans around Mt. P?

^Re: above comments about 18x11s: I had 18x11 +18 on my 34 GTR and although they looked sweet I couldn't get full lock due to the inside of the wheel rubbing against the suspension upright (Doing 3 point turns around hairpins at Galston Gorge is pretty embarrassing ). I could have probably spaced them out to avoid this but they were already flush/just outside the guard on the front so it would have made it a fair bit worse. Back to 10s now and I'm happy that I can turn moderately tight turns

Car and wheels look great Terry! However, I think you need to lower the ride height by 10-20mm just to reduce that wheel to arch gap. I've got some LMGT3s as track wheels that I was thinking of getting restored in a similar fashion to what you have done here, but I'm afraid that if I spent the money getting them perfect and then scratched them again I'd be kicking myself. What sort of rough costs are you looking at to get the gutter rash fixed and then the wheels powder-coated if you don't mind me asking...?

Bump! Few people after the lip only but I'd rather sell the whole lot together as the boot lid has already been drilled ready to mount the lip - Keep in mind you can take the GTR wing off very easily so you can just run the lip. Make an offer!

Check your spark plugs (may as well replace them with new coppers - enough effort just to get to them on the RB20) - Gap them to .8mm or buy the right ones pre-gapped. Try adjusting your boost back down and seeing if it still does it - could possibly be blowing out the spark which is coilpacks and spark plugs might fix. Could also be fuel supply related too...

Ok, so I think I've finally fixed it! Connected the standard ecu and started it up to try and log any fault codes - car idled fine, maybe a little too low ~600rpm. Didn't stall at all after about 5 mins of idling and on/off throttle so I hooked up the PFC - all good there too... Car was still idling too low though and was struggling a bit, so I wound out the idle screw and got it back up to 800rpm - idled smoothly after that. So what changed??? My theory now is that the remote filter and oil cooler put extra strain on the oil pump and because my idle was probably too low already it couldn't keep the engine turning... Today's warmer weather probably helped it a bit and now that I've set the idle higher it shouldn't be a problem. If this is not the reason then I have no idea, the car has magically healed itself...

Yeah mate... still here. Had an offer for it all though, not sure if I'm willing to go that low yet...

Yeah, I sorted the MFD issue by rotating the TPS - now reads 0-95% or something, which is better than before... Can anyone suggest any electrical diagnostic tests I can do which might help to point to the problem? If I got hold of a wideband oxy sensor would that enable me to determine if I have a vac leak? (i.e. car would be lean at idle?) Is there anything else I can do?

Check your (sycorb) PMs mate...

Hey Norman, got a nismo MFD... If I got the intake smoke tested is that likely to show up any leaks that my method didn't? Bsa - nope, didn't replace any vac lines but I couldn't find any signs that any were damaged. The car went into the garage fine - put an oil filter relocation kit on it, and now it doesn't idle... very frustrating trying to track the problem down.

Ruled out the PowerFC as the source - Plugged the standard ecu in and it still idled too low... Tried winding the idle screw in and out a little bit but it didn't seem to have much impact. I checked the AAC valve signal at the plug - nothing; supposed to be 12v at ignition and ~10v when cold?? Not sure why that was the case - checked continuity between the halfway harness and the plug - all good. So it would seem the ecu is not giving out a signal. I'd like to try the AAC valve test on consult but I don't have that so might be time to call on a workshop...

Thanks Jez, adjusted it so that it now reads .45v to ~4v so that at least my mfd shows throttle percentage maxing at 95% instead of 86% like it used to - hasn't fixed the problem though. I disconnected the AAC solenoid just to see what would happen - no change to idle - should this have an effect if it was connected and functioning? If I stab the throttle at idle the revs drop quickly before it recovers, however if I gently open the throttle it revs up smoothly. Its obviously not getting enough air (or too much?). Jez I know you're the central coast but if you're in Sydney today or tomorrow I'd be happy to pay for your time to have a look at everything and see if you can solve it...

Seems to be idling reasonably ok, missing occasionally, if i just start it up and let it sit there. Will start stumbling after a while then cut out after 30seconnds to a minute. My next question - what should the TPS signal be at idle? I have 0% showing on the mfd and even when I crack the throttle to try and stabilise the idle it still shows 0%. I can get the revs to go from about 800rpm to 1200 rpm before the mfd even shows 1%... PowerFC shows 0.33v from the tps without the throttle depressed but the engine manual says it should be around 0.5v. The idle definately stabilises with the tps voltage that high but then the car is revving about 1200rpm. Can someone check for me if their PFC shows a reading as low as 0.33v on the tps at idle?

Again, appreciate all the help, but I still can't find this problem Have ruled out its not a vac leak by pumping 15 psi through the system - air bled out the intake. So I blanked the afms off and did it again, no leaks... Have also checked the plug onto the AAC motor/solenoid thing - seems firm, but checked to make sure there was a circuit at the ecu - all good. Checked the fuses - all ok. Any more ideas? I was sure it had to be a vacuum leak but now i'm 99% sure its not and I'm out of ideas... almost ready to call in the experts

Still got these people, make some offers! would like to get them out of my shed

thanks for all the help, If I have the throttle slightly open (like 2% on the mfd) car seems to idle happily, maybe a little rich but its hard to tell... The pfc shows all the sensors as normal and working I'm fairly sure it will be a vacuum leak somewhere but I'm going to have to pump some air into the system to find it - didn't pull any thing off during the filter relocation kit install so unless I've knocked something off accidentally...?

Cheers for the replies guys - checked all the obvious things but nothing seems out of place. All the sensors appear to be working fine according to the power fc. It isn't related to temperature at all - won't idle when cold either. Not sure what could have suddenly changed when I revved it - blow a hose of the AAC valve or similar? Can the AAC valve be completely closed? Seems like the engine gets no air unless i crack the throttle...

Hi people, hoping I could get some advice from the gurus - Over the weekend I installed a brand new Trust oil cooler and relocation kit. This of course meant that I did an oil change and put a new filter on, as well as having to pull half the front end off the car... Anyway, it all went relatively smoothly and when all the lines were installed and tightened and i'd put a fresh batch of oil in I decided I'd run the car for a bit to check for leaks or any problems. Car started fine, oil pressure came up to normal and the car was sitting happily idleing for probably close to 5 mins. I noticed the oil and water temp hadn't even recorded a value yet (too cold still) so I revved the car up to about 3000 rpm and then back to idle - when it promptly died.... I started it up again and from that point on, it would not idle at all... So what's the problem? I'm thinking I could have bumped a wire or something while installing the new lines etc but i'm sure I haven't disconnected anything and forgotten it so I'm really not sure where to start... I was working at the front of the car on the drivers side so I guess there's a lot it could be... AAC valve? CAS? anything else? What could I have possibly bumped on that side? Any other ideas? It could also be related to the fact that it must have just come off the cold start etc as I blipped the throttle and maybe the valve closed... I dunno. I'll have to check if it will idle when cold once it has cooled out. Any help is much appreciated...

bump

Some more pics on my blog here

Was great to meet a bunch of people I see posting all the time on SAU, and to also see their rides in person - all amazing! I'm a big fan of the 31s, particularly Greg's NA RB26/30- wish I heard it running. I'm also loving all the pics, great work. Will post up my own soon in case everyone isn't overloaded already