Chris-06R

These a amazing - I try sometimes, but wish I was as good as you. Would love to see a time lapse type video of you drawing if you ever get the chance

Hahaha wow. If I ever had a race like that I would want the tapes burnt and would probably take up chess...

Hey guys, had these sitting around in the shed and I want to make some room, so they gotta go. Genuine GTR bootlid and wing in good condition - $400 Fibreglass N1 Style lip modified with red LEDs for your centre high-mount brake light (avoid having one in your read window/parcel shelf) Just needs to be wired to your brake light circuit - $100 Take them both for $450 Will consider posting the lip if you pay the postage, bootlid will be too difficult too ship, so pick up only. Located in Sydney (Bankstown Area). Some pics:

Also Ian, love those RE30s - they're one of my other rims of choice. But as everyone else is saying - needs more low! Then again, if it's your daily, would make sense not to drop it - My heart is in my mouth every speed hump and dished road crossing

Thanks! Ride height is355mm from centre of wheel to wheel arch and the tyre size is 295/30/18. I haven't had to roll the guards at all but then again the cusco suspension is pretty firm and I don't think I've managed to get that much compression into the springs. A track day may change that though...

Sure... . Some more pics here - http://www.larmour-photo.com/wp/?p=186

damn, pity I didn't see this thread earlier, could have warned you off them... Anyway, for people searching in the future, I'm running 18x11 +18 and they touch the suspension upright before full lock, so not ideal. I'll probably try and get some 5mm spacers to just get them out far enough to clear, but they're pretty much flush with the guards as is. Does look good though....

So everyone thinks you shouldn't be paying more than $20k for a 32 GTR but I wonder how many people have seriously looked for them. I hunted for one for months and everything I looked at had issues that I would have had to spend time and money to fix up. Not to mention if you want one with a freshly rebuilt motor the seller would have to factor in that it probably cost them upwards of $10k. So for sure, keep looking, but if the right one comes along I'd be prepared to pay more because good ones are really hard to find.... I gave up and bought a 34, hopefully I'll find the right 32 sometime in the future.

Why.... should it have been called the Pack-of-Arseholes Cup?

Loving your work Sean. One question - how different is the Nismo fuel pump in terms of size compared to a Bosch? Nengun has them for double the price + shipping compared to the Bosch pumps - worth it?

double sided tape was just standard bunnings issue stuff... make sure you don't get 'mounting' type which is a foam type. As for replacement screens - not sure what modern equivalents are around but if you can't find anything here yahoo japan might be worth looking at.

Hmm check none of the pins are bent causing a short circuit/burning but I'd say something is fried. I'm pretty sure the ribbon cable should be pretty simple to get but it sounds like you might need a whole new screen

Umm, I think it was just the standard one, but you could use either on that page. I'd imagine the anit-glare just has a matt finish but the front plastic element on the screen has that anyway.

I'm gonna put the question out there - what's the point of making everyone run on street tyres? It can't be down to the fact the organisers are trying to keep some premise of 'road-car-ness' as the ridiculous lack of any rules mean that people are building space frame all-carbon chassis and bolting whatever the hell they want to it. Obviously this discussion came up earlier in this thread and has been done to death, and if people want to run in motorsport that is not about racing (in a door-handle to door-handle racecraft sense) and is only about who throws the most dollars at a car, good luck to them. But the one thing I don't understand is why the organisers' one rule seems to be the car must be run on road tyres. Surely that gives a massive advantage to the lightest cars in the field..? but anyway, come Saturday morning I'll be hanging over the fence waving my flag and enjoying these machines screaming past regardless of the pointlessness of it all...

Mine is a 99 model but it has the Nismo MFD so not sure if it was standard in the car when new. It's the Sharp screen in any case...

Posted this up a few days ago in Tutorials/DIY but it seems no mods are around there, so I'll put it in here for now... Ok, so the R34 GTR is now getting on a bit in terms of age and one of the things that doesn't last the test of time and the elements is the LCD screen on the multi-function display (MFD). This was the case with mine - as you can see in the pictures below it was all cracked around the edges and was really annoying me. So I started looking into what the reason for the cracking was and what options I had to fix it. After doing some forum research I found out that the problem is the polarising film on the front of the LCD cracks (due to heat/uv whatever) and this is what ruins the screen. There are 2 options - 1) Replace the screen with a brand new one - ~$200? (if you can find the right screen) 2) Attempt to replace the polarising film ~$20 I decided I'd have a crack at replacing the polarising film and after doing it I'd highly recommend if you have the same problem as me, follow my tutorial and do it yourself. Its just as much effort to replace the whole screen and is a whole lot more expensive. Even if you do have a go at replacing the film and you ruin your screen you aren't any worse of than you were before and you can replace the whole screen. Before you begin you're going to need a sheet of the LCD polarising film. I bought the stuff from this place - http://www.3dlens.co...cdpolarizer.php and bought a 17inch piece and just cut it to size (which was good because I stuffed it up the first time and I had heaps left over to have another go). This is the film - The other thing you will need for this job (apart from tools) is double sided tape - not the thick mounting stuff, the stuff that is just thin film between protective paper. Ok, so once you have your supplies, you need to remove the MFD from the car. Start off by pulling out your ashtray and unscrewing the one screw behind it. You should then be able to unclasp your gear stick boot and pull the whole plastic surround out. You will need to unclip the cigarette lighter. Next, pull out the center air vent. Do this by carefully wedging a thin flat head screwdriver down the left hand side of the vent, and popping it out. I found using two works best - wedge one at the top and then use a second at the bottom and it will pop out. Unclip your hazard lights switch and pull it out. Once you have the center vent out the plastic surround for the MFD will lift out of the way revealing the 4 hex head screws you will need to undo. Because they are near the winscreen you will probably need a stubby screwdriver, or, if they are as tight as the ones in my car were, and ratchet, socket and short extension. Next, undo the 2 or 3 plugs on the back of the mfd - the brown and white ones need to have the little tab in the middle of the plug pushed down to pull them out. Levering them out carefully with a flat bladed screwdriver is the way to go. Once undone, you can pull the whole unit out and move to somewhere more comfortable. From memory, i think there's 4 more screws you now need to undo to open up the unit. See all that stuff in there - that's why your home-made mfd never worked! Ok, so you'll need to pull the ribbon out (by lifting the plastic clasp up) and also pull out the plug the blue wires are connected to. This will seperate the screen cradle from the rest of the unit. Next, remove the screen from the cradle. Again the screws were super tight (I managed to destroy the head of one of them and had to cut a new groove with a hacksaw to get it out) so make sure you have a good quality, appropriately sized screwdriver to get them out. Once out, you will need to remove the rigid plastic piece that is glued/taped onto the screen. Carefully run a knife around the edge making sure not to push the blade in too far. Once the plastic piece is off the cracked polarising film is revealed. Clean the remaining sludge off the metal frame with the knife. Next, CAREFULLY, use the blade of a knife to lift the corner of the cracked adhesive film off the screen. It's stuck down pretty good and is quite hard to get it started so be patient. If you're not careful you will damage the actual screen itself like I did - if you only take a notch out of the corner it doesn't matter too much as you won't even be able to see it once you put it all back together. Now I thought I'd go check I had the right film and that I hadn't damaged my screen up until this point, so I went and plugged it back into the car - hmm.. so the polarising film is obviously important... ... and putting it the wrong way round won't help (don't worry it can only go on sticky side down) that's it... Ok, so with a sharp stanley knife cut your film to exactly the right size, peel off the protective film on the sticky side, and stick it down. I did this bit twice cos I ended up with a bubble the first time so I recommend sticking one edge down with the film bent and gradually laying it down onto the screen. If you screw it up you should be able to peel it back off carefully, cut a new piece of film and try again. Once on, peel the coating off the front of the film, line the metal frame with some new double sided tape and stick down the thick plastic piece: *make sure you put it back on the right way with the matt finish to the outside* Put the whole thing back together again, unless yours is like mine and has fallen to bits as you pulled it apart. The plastic is really brittle and breaks very easily - araldite it all back together and nobody will over know. Install it all back in the car whilst trying to beat my time of around 6 minutes to put the screen, screws and all the trim back in. Check out your good-as-new screen and post up your before and after photos in this thread

No need to stoop that low Duncan, if paying for rebuilds of the GTR has made that much of an impact the same savings can be had living on baked beans...

mmmm love Australian GT. Awesome cars that unfortunately get smashed up alot possibly due to money>talent (Melbourne 2010 anyone?) The racing at Eastern Creek this year was suprisingly close - best GT race I've seen in a while. Anyway, here's some Aus. GT porn for you all... zomg SLS!

Ok, so the R34 GTR is now getting on a bit in terms of age and one of the things that doesn't last the test of time and the elements is the LCD screen on the multi-function display (MFD). This was the case with mine - as you can see in the pictures below it was all cracked around the edges and was really annoying me. So I started looking into what the reason for the cracking was and what options I had to fix it. After doing some forum research I found out that the problem is the polarising film on the front of the LCD cracks (due to heat/uv whatever) and this is what ruins the screen. There are 2 options - 1) Replace the screen with a brand new one - ~$200? (if you can find the right screen) 2) Attempt to replace the polarising film ~$20 I decided I'd have a crack at replacing the polarising film and after doing it I'd highly recommend if you have the same problem as me, follow my tutorial and do it yourself. Its just as much effort to replace the whole screen and is a whole lot more expensive. Even if you do have a go at replacing the film and you ruin your screen you aren't any worse of than you were before and you can replace the whole screen. Before you begin you're going to need a sheet of the LCD polarising film. I bought the stuff from this place - http://www.3dlens.co...cdpolarizer.php and bought a 17inch piece and just cut it to size (which was good because I stuffed it up the first time and I had heaps left over to have another go). This is the film - The other thing you will need for this job (apart from tools) is double sided tape - not the thick mounting stuff, the stuff that is just thin film between protective paper. Ok, so once you have your supplies, you need to remove the MFD from the car. Start off by pulling out your ashtray and unscrewing the one screw behind it. You should then be able to unclasp your gear stick boot and pull the whole plastic surround out. You will need to unclip the cigarette lighter. Next, pull out the center air vent. Do this by carefully wedging a thin flat head screwdriver down the left hand side of the vent, and popping it out. I found using two works best - wedge one at the top of the left side and then use a second at the bottom of the left side and it will pop out. Unclip your hazard lights switch and pull the vent out. Once you have the center vent out the plastic surround for the MFD will lift out of the way revealing the 4 hex head screws you will need to undo. Because they are near the winscreen you will probably need a stubby screwdriver, or, if they are as tight as the ones in my car were, and ratchet, socket and short extension. Next, undo the 2 or 3 plugs on the back of the mfd - the brown and white ones need to have the little tab in the middle of the plug pushed down to pull them out. Levering them out carefully with a flat bladed screwdriver is the way to go. Once undone, you can pull the whole unit out and move to somewhere more comfortable. From memory, i think there's 4 screws around the unit and 2 on the underside you now need to undo to open up the unit. See all that stuff in there - that's why your home-made mfd never worked! Ok, so you'll need to pull the ribbon out (by lifting the plastic clasp up) and also pull out the plug the blue wires are connected to. This will seperate the screen cradle from the rest of the unit. Next, remove the screen from the cradle. Again the screws were super tight (I managed to destroy the head of one of them and had to cut a new groove with a hacksaw to get it out) so make sure you have a good quality, appropriately sized screwdriver to get them out. Once out, you will need to remove the rigid plastic piece that is glued/taped onto the screen. Carefully run a knife around the edge making sure not to push the blade in too far. Once the plastic piece is off the cracked polarising film is revealed. Clean the remaining sludge off the metal frame with the knife. Next, CAREFULLY, use the blade of a knife to lift the corner of the cracked adhesive film off the screen. It's stuck down pretty good and is quite hard to get it started so be patient. If you're not careful you will damage the actual screen itself like I did - if you only take a notch out of the corner it doesn't matter too much as you won't even be able to see it once you put it all back together. Now I thought I'd go check I had the right film and that I hadn't damaged my screen up until this point, so I went and plugged it back into the car - hmm.. so the polarising film is obviously important... ... and putting it the wrong way round won't help (don't worry it can only go on sticky side down) that's it... Ok, so with a sharp stanley knife cut your film to exactly the right size, peel off the protective film on the sticky side, and stick it down. I did this bit twice cos I ended up with a bubble the first time so I recommend sticking one edge down with the film bent and gradually laying it down onto the screen. If you screw it up you should be able to peel it back off carefully, cut a new piece of film and try again. Once on, peel the coating off the front of the film, line the metal frame with some new double sided tape and stick down the thick plastic piece: *make sure you put it back on the right way with the matt finish to the outside* Put the whole thing back together again, unless yours is like mine and has fallen to bits as you pulled it apart. The plastic is really brittle and breaks very easily - araldite the broken plastic back together and nobody will ever know. Install it all back in the car whilst trying to beat my time of around 6 minutes to put the screen, screws and all the trim back in. Check out your good-as-new screen and post up your before and after photos in this thread

This thing is perfect.

Awesome build! But it's too nice to drift - hope you can keep it looking its best

Now on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250812363625#ht_500wt_1156

Still for sale...

bump

Anyone Interested?