Chris-06R

Ah, sorry guys, should have updated this a few days ago. 040 is sold, thanks for your enquiries. Muffler still up for grabs though.

Smart car with 'busa motor - keep the greenies happy and rip mad skidz

Um, your mate is mistaken... Check the GTR edition of motor mag (last issue) to see the proof. The R35 is ~18 seconds slower than a V8 supercar around Bathurst, and ~13 seconds slower than the R32 Group A GTR. A race spec r35 GTR on the other hand...

http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=d&sou...mp;t=h&z=18 ZOMG LINKAGE

Noone wants a brand new bosch 040? Why risk installing a second hand one...

bump

By the way, located in sydney, but willing to post. Cat sold pending payment...

Hi all, got some stuff I bought but didn't use I'd like to sell off... Bosch 040 Fuel pump, never used, still in sealed bag - $200 Fujitsubo Cannon muffler, 3 Inch in, 4.5 Inch out, second hand but good condition - $80 3 Inch Cat, brand new, in box - $200

Its the new FIA GT spec GTR; RWD V8. I don't think it will be run in this years championship but will contest the 2010 c'ship.

Thanks for the kind words regarding the photos - here's a few more because Mr Boston asked so nicely Oh, and kerb jumping is what makes it Oran Park. Makes for more action for the spectators and brings down the lap times. That said, the Evo on the grass was actually a mistake; he came in pretty sideways and slid it out there - noone is over that kerb that far, that early, if they want to be quick there. If you go back and look at the first set of photos, you can actually see sparks under one of the Evos going over the dogleg though...

Great day, with some great cars and great driving. Personally I don't think there was as much on-track action as last year, probably because the standard was raised (as far as I can recall I only saw one car go off track this year) I would say that they need someone taking tickets at the back gate near the rally school - or at the entrance to the dirt road on the left when you come in the cobbity road entrance - even though I pre-bought tickets I did not need to show them to anyone, so I'm sure people quite easily got in for free. Anyway, that aside, here's some photos I took. John Boston was great to watch in every car he drove; I could always trust that he'd have the car over the ripple strips, or 2 wheels in the air to make for good photos. But photo of the day went to Jackie Yick in his mental civic with this hang time -

looks like rFactor.... Pity its not some super crazy one off in-house simulation http://www.rfactorcentral.com/

Ah yep, I had the same problem, forgot to mention that. I ended up just filing a tiny bit off the top of those pins to get it to clip in - As I mentioned in the write-up, that distance is critical to getting them to click in and stay in.

Hi all, I tried to post this in the tutorial/DIY section, but its not coming up, so I guess a mod has to move it there... -------------- Ok, I thought I'd write up a tutorial on how I did this install, because although on alot of cars these conversion kits are plug 'n play, on my car they were anything but... The kit I used was one of NYTSKY's (Dave) Helligkeit group buy conversion kits, but I'd assume you will have the same problems with all of them if you have the same lights as mine. My car has the projector type lights which take a h1 globe. However, they have a funky(?) design in which the globe actually sits in the front of a globe holder and this holder gets pushed into the back of the headlight assembly. The following pics show the design... As you can see, there is no way that the HID kit globes are going to work in these lights without some mods - the HID globes have their wires running straight into the back of them and will not plug into the standard globe holder. So to make it work in your lights.... *Before you begin, have both your lights out of the back of the headlight, but only do one at a time - this will allow you to make comparisons in terms of positioning etc* Step 1: Pull out the globe holder and dissasemble. This involves removing the rubber grommet then carefully bending out the metal tabs Step 2: This was a big leap of faith, because from this point there was no turning back - if it didnt work i'd have to source new holders. All was good in the end though. Start off buy using a hobby/stanley knife to scrape all the silicone goo crap off the back of the plastic holder with the metal tabs on it. This is a messy job, but removing as much as you can will make it much easier to do the next step, which is to drill out the holder. The aim here is to make as large a hole as possible, and also to remove the metal tabs which are moulded into the plastic. I used a bench drill with the largest drill I had (not sure what size, but still left reasonably thick walls on the plastic holder) to carefully drill from the metal tab end of the holder through to the front. If you do this you will notice the metal tabs fold over on the front of the holder making it difficult to drill right through. Once I hit the metal tabs i carefully bent them out of the way, then snapped/cut them off, and finished drilling through. Step 3: If you don't have a dremel/multitool this next step will be quite difficult. I used a dremel and cutting/grinding attachments to gradually increase the size of the hole and cut around the plastic that was holding the metal tabs in. I was then able to pry/snap them out. You will notice in the picture there are 3 plastic pins that locate the globe in the right place. In the first light I did I removed these, however I later realised they are important in locating the globe in the right location in the holder, so do your best to avoid damaging these... If you do, its not vital, as you will see further down. Step 4: Increase the hole size, and removed the electric contacts and file out the holder so that your HID globe base will fit into the hole. Step 5: It is at this point that you will need to test to make sure your HID globes will fit into the hole. However, on my kit, the globes were wired to a nice rubber grommet and new connections that fit into the headlight plug - neither of which would fit through the hole. This meant I had to cut the wires running to the back of the HID globes and put in some spade connectors. Step 6: By now, you're HID globes should slot nicely into your modified globe holder, and are ready to be fitted back into the holder and then the headlights... As I mentioned, keeping those 3 little plastic pins means that straight away the globe will fit in place nicely as seen in the first picture, hoewever if you damaged them in the drilling stage you can do what I did for the first light I did (when i didn't realise they were fairly important). I ended up using 3 o-rings around the base to make sure the globe sat in the appropriate location. The first pic below shows the O-ring approach, the second shows the neater and easier plastic pin approach... Step 7: Now you can connect the spade connectors back up, wrap them securely in electrical tape as well to make sure they are well insulated, and reassemble the holder. Make sure you orient the metal ring and the metal clip the right way, then bend the tabs back down to hold it all in place. Don't forget to put the rubber grommet on too, otherwise you will have to try and stretch it over the globe (which from experience is not easy). Step 8: Now you can put it all in the way you would if it was plug n play - connect the HID spade connectors into your existing light plugs, mount your ballasts somewhere secure ( I used some existing holes down behind the front bumper, bolted em up and used some stick on velcro between the ballast and the car frame so they were secure and didn't rattle). Step 9: Wait until it gets dark and go test em out! Mine came up sweet, with a nice cutoff, minimal hotspots and no adjustment needed. I wouldn't say they are as good as OEM HID headlights, but they are alot better than the standard lights I used to have... Thanks to Dahtone Racing for the idea in this thread... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...id-t194275.html

Ok, I thought I'd write up a tutorial on how I did this install, because although on alot of cars these conversion kits are plug 'n play, on my car they were anything but... The kit I used was one of NYTSKY's (Dave) Helligkeit group buy conversion kits, but I'd assume you will have the same problems with all of them if you have the same lights as mine. My car has the projector type lights which take a h1 globe. However, they have a funky(?) design in which the globe actually sits in the front of a globe holder and this holder gets pushed into the back of the headlight assembly. The following pics show the design... As you can see, there is no way that the HID kit globes are going to work in these lights without some mods - the HID globes have their wires running straight into the back of them and will not plug into the standard globe holder. So to make it work in your lights.... *Before you begin, have both your lights out of the back of the headlight, but only do one at a time - this will allow you to make comparisons in terms of positioning etc* Step 1: Pull out the globe holder and dissasemble. This involves removing the rubber grommet then carefully bending out the metal tabs Step 2: This was a big leap of faith, because from this point there was no turning back - if it didnt work i'd have to source new holders. All was good in the end though. Start off buy using a hobby/stanley knife to scrape all the silicone goo crap off the back of the plastic holder with the metal tabs on it. This is a messy job, but removing as much as you can will make it much easier to do the next step, which is to drill out the holder. The aim here is to make as large a hole as possible, and also to remove the metal tabs which are moulded into the plastic. I used a bench drill with the largest drill I had (not sure what size, but still left reasonably thick walls on the plastic holder) to carefully drill from the metal tab end of the holder through to the front. If you do this you will notice the metal tabs fold over on the front of the holder making it difficult to drill right through. Once I hit the metal tabs i carefully bent them out of the way, then snapped/cut them off, and finished drilling through. Step 3: If you don't have a dremel/multitool this next step will be quite difficult. I used a dremel and cutting/grinding attachments to gradually increase the size of the hole and cut around the plastic that was holding the metal tabs in. I was then able to pry/snap them out. You will notice in the picture there are 3 plastic pins that locate the globe in the right place. In the first light I did I removed these, however I later realised they are important in locating the globe in the right location in the holder, so do your best to avoid damaging these... If you do, its not vital, as you will see further down. Step 4: Increase the hole size, and removed the electric contacts and file out the holder so that your HID globe base will fit into the hole. Step 5: It is at this point that you will need to test to make sure your HID globes will fit into the hole. However, on my kit, the globes were wired to a nice rubber grommet and new connections that fit into the headlight plug - neither of which would fit through the hole. This meant I had to cut the wires running to the back of the HID globes and put in some spade connectors. Step 6: By now, you're HID globes should slot nicely into your modified globe holder, and are ready to be fitted back into the holder and then the headlights... As I mentioned, keeping those 3 little plastic pins means that straight away the globe will fit in place nicely as seen in the first picture, hoewever if you damaged them in the drilling stage you can do what I did for the first light I did (when i didn't realise they were fairly important). I ended up using 3 o-rings around the base to make sure the globe sat in the appropriate location. The first pic below shows the O-ring approach, the second shows the neater and easier plastic pin approach... Step 7: Now you can connect the spade connectors back up, wrap them securely in electrical tape as well to make sure they are well insulated, and reassemble the holder. Make sure you orient the metal ring and the metal clip the right way, then bend the tabs back down to hold it all in place. Don't forget to put the rubber grommet on too, otherwise you will have to try and stretch it over the globe (which from experience is not easy). Step 8: Now you can put it all in the way you would if it was plug n play - connect the HID spade connectors into your existing light plugs, mount your ballasts somewhere secure ( I used some existing holes down behind the front bumper, bolted em up and used some stick on velcro between the ballast and the car frame so they were secure and didn't rattle). Step 9: Wait until it gets dark and go test em out! Mine came up sweet, with a nice cutoff, minimal hotspots and no adjustment needed. I wouldn't say they are as good as OEM HID headlights, but they are alot better than the standard lights I used to have... *Thanks to Dahtone Racing for his suggestions on how to fit these in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...id-t194275.html

Hi Mate, I'll take it. PM'd you.

End of discussion...

So who wants unlimited practice laps before the big day..?

It was the most entertaining thing we saw all day... You definitely had the support of the crowd over at iced coffee, but we all knew it was a matter of time until you saw a black flag waved at you

I'm still having this problem... does anyone else have any more suggestions? I've now checked the CAS and TPS plugs, and have also checked for error codes on the ECU and reset it - still no change. As the car goes to stall the revs bounce of 0, come up a bit, fall back down to 0, come up a bit more, then seem to recover and get back to idle speed ~700rpm. Dunno if that info helps the diagnosis at all.

What car have you got? There's a little screw that you can adjust on the AAC valve which allows you to fine tune your idle speed.

Thanks for the replies all. Unfortunately all I've succeeded in is finding out alot of people have this problem, with no guaranteed solution... As for some of the suggestions - -Battery - less than 6 months old, so I can't see it being that. -Charcoal Cannister - That all looks good, I can't see any probs with leaks or damaged/perished hoses -Factory BOV return pipe - Thats all good, had that off a while ago and it was clear This problem really has stumped me - especially due to the fact it gradually got worse without me changing anything. I've checked the air filter etc, also running some injector cleaner through it atm. Have cleaned the plugs for the TPS and CAS, so I'll see if that makes any difference. I still would like to try and get the fuel pump running so it is earther 100% all the time as bennett has mentioned, but I'm still not sure how i'll go about doing that...

hmm no, the idle is generally ok, sometimes hunts between 600-1000rpm, but not too bad. Have you tried cleaning out the AAC valve/adjusting the idle. That might help with that problem a bit, but it didn't help for me.

Yep, stock BOV was still on car, crazy jap that had it before me felt two bovs were better than one. And i did the fuel pump trick, but earthing the black wire just killed the fuel guage - i think the earth for the pump was white with as green stripe? But earthing that meant the fuel pump would not run at all...

Hi all, My car has a problem that has developed over the past few weeks and I cannot figure out what is going on. The problem is the car stalls after you have pushed the clutch in/gone to neutral as you come to a stop. Its occurs most if the revs are about 1500-2000rpm or more as you push the clutch in, and the needle will just fall way past the idle point, either bouncing off 0 and coming back up, or stalling the car alltogether. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RP...G-SAG-t408.html I've checked in the above thread in which people seem to have the same problems, have cleaned my AAC valve, checked to make sure there are no vac leaks, disconnected the aftermarket bov and running standard. The only other thing people seem to suggest is earthing the fuel pump so it runs 100% all the time. I DID get a new walbro intank pump a few months back but the car was fine for several weeks before this problem developed. After fiddling around with trying to earth the fuel pump as described in the above thread i've had no luck - it seems the earth has to go back to the ECU otherwise the pump will not operate at all, so I'm not sure how to get around this problem. Does anyone have any ideas what might be going on, or how to rig the pump so it operates all the time (without any major rewiring)? Thanks for your help.