Dj laBBy

Welding is an art, it takes time and alot of practice, then if you haven't used it for a while, its like jumping back on a bike, you can do it, but you need to keep going with it to get good results. Tigging is my fav. I have been doing it for years and even though i'm not artistic, i treat it like art. The better it looks, 9 out of 10 times the better the weld. I don't see the need in purging ally, never bothered as most of the time you need a bit of a gap and the gas covers it anyway. I purge steel(if its critical) and stainless as it helps to draw the weld through, but not excessivly. But for most things on a car, there's no need. Mig is good once set up correctly. Never bother with that "gasless" mig wire, its shit and never does a good job unless you use lots of heat and the burn the flux out. Fork out the extra money and get your self a bottle of gas. Best stuff for ALLY is straight argon, For steel and stainless, best is "argoshield", the bottle colour is peacock blue body, grey shoulder and black neck, argon/carbon dioxide/oxygen. I was taught and teach to do little circles. It aggitates the pool and your less likley to get defects(also use for stick welding) and it tends to flaten the weld so you get better wash in to the parent metal. Ally mig is really quick, unnaturally quick. Not genurally used for thin stuff as you need heaps of heat, but fairly thick stuff. You have to spray it in, not like steel where you use globular or short dip method. Stick is easy, piece of piss. Get a stick(generally start off with GP rods, 4113's) some decent heat and away you go. Just remember to give about half the thickness of the rod inc flux(say for 2.4, inc flux around 4mm, bout 2mm) off the job and try and maintain that. Yes you will need to feed somewhat, but you will get it. Always pull away, never push unless Vert ups. Rod angle about 20-30deg off the bottom and sort of centrally so you can spread the heat evenly. Hmmm i could go on forever, but like other people have said, go and do it in TAFE. I'm hopefully going to be teaching TAFE at nights in a few weeks, so if your in Syd, might see ya. Oh btw, Cast welding sucks. Yah it works, but to weld something like a Block, your kidding. The whole job needs to be heated(generally in a furnace) to a good cherry red colour, welded with depending what compostition the cast is, then cooled very very slowly so you don't get localised hard spots as you generally get carbides(excessive carbon) just next to the weld, so could crack right next to where it was welded. You can weld cast sucessfully with GP rods, but that is generally for low grade and not highly stressed casts. I have welded turbine housings, that you ahve to be careful of as it is generally high nickel iron. Once again lots of heat, the right, and a damn good weld and it worked ok. Hope those are some useful tips. Robb

Yep good Q. Already taken it off, its flat as, though a couple of rivet type things, but not a prob.

Sweet dave might need to enlist your services for some 4" mandrel bent pipework if possible Hey guys, Yah this is a top section. I'm a Welder/fabricator/fitter with cert 4 qual, nearly diploma. Bout 12years tigging ally but can create a work of art with any metal on the TIG, a few stick tickets, next is the mig ticket. Currently getting my quals so i can teach at TAFE's in syd at nights. Work and gotten most of my expierence in the NAVY... Yah you heard it right, the defence force. Oh yah am only 27yrs Robb

Yah calibrated, true, but basically whats the difference in calibration when you tune the car for the new calibration?? Yah am running a Power FC, so its all good. The only time you'd be worried about "calibration" so to speak is when you are using the standard comp. Basically this way you are kinda tricking (real lamens terms) the computer there is less air going through the AFM, the just adjust the mixtures to suit, not rocket science. Yah tricky making a box?? well really all you need to do is to get a bit of pipe, machine or file a basic flat, make a base plate, weld that on, then by cutting some ally plate say 20mmhigh x what ever the standard width is, then just weld it all up. Screw the AFM unit in and just silicon on a top if you can't be bothered tapping and screwing the top. Piece of piss(if your a welder/fabricator) Was thinking of it last night in bed for about an hour. Should hopefully have started it and maybe some pics by monday.

Ah good question. Had low comp pistons and rb25 head, =extra low comp setup. It was somwhere around the low 7's cr. When you think about it, 20psi is great for an AFM on rb30 setup, but it was the comp that was killing me, saying that it was an ignition monster, just wanted more and more. Could've thrown 30psi in there and it would've been happy. However i have high comp standard rb30 pistons in there now so comp is a little more respectful, though would love to make over 300rwkw. So we just see. Mate its a good experiment just to see how it all goes. plus "Custom" love custom!!!

Hey anyone made a custom AFM?? Am thinking of using a Q45 (90mm 3.5") internals and plumbing it into a 4"pipe. The reason you might say, to slow the air speed through the meter which will give a greater scope. Undoubtly 4" is not much of an increase, but i can also bolt it straight to the 4" turbo inlet and use a 4" filter. I was maxed out at 20psi (260rwkw) so maybe this may help a little. Plus it is custom and i like tinkering. hehehe

Hey was wondering if you could send me a pic of it please. Cheers Robb rob_wagner@optusnet.com.au

Yep its already on there.

hey sorry mate, only fits RB30E bottom manifolds.

Hey as in the topic, am looking for an oil pump in good condtion. Cheers Robb

Hey guys, up for sale is a twin throttle plenum that i made originally for a customer, but he dropped out of the sale. I spent a lot of time on this plenum to port polish and make sure that you can get the most power out of this plenum. It uses twin standard throttlebodys, so you can use the standard tps and still retains the idle step motor. The whole side got cut off and then a whole new section welded on before smoothing everything out to look a million bucks and then powder coated silver. If you want an extreme N/A, this would have to be one of the best plenums around. for sale for $400ono. Thanks Robb Please pm or call 0412957329

kewl, i will do some local inquiries. AP engineering am sure will be able to do it, but at what cost, but i think some geek guy should be able to do it at a better price.(no offence to the geeks out there). hehe

Kewl sweet, i will give them a go. Cheers

Hey guys, not too sure if any one can do this or not, but i recently got my car on the road and after i did some wiring to get rb25 loom into a R31 body, i think i stuffed up and accidently shorted #6 injector wire(to it self) and apparently my tuner said that the injector driver is stuffed. Now i wanna see if i can see if it works again, but does anyone know or can repair a comp/circuit board?? I really have no idea and with FC's about a grand, i would really like to get it going again. Cheers Robb

Hmm too bad about the exhaust size, as i have a 35R with 1.06 and hpc coated rear that is currently on my car, but it has only just been put on. Would love the t04z.

Damn too bad your in melb, as they are the rims i'm looking for. I already have 2, but want a complete set with a strip pair. Oh btw, they fit quite well on R31's too

If RB20JT don't get it i'll have it. want to make my 25/30det look hell stock.

Damn i would as i really need one, (borrowing a mates) but don't have the mula maybe in another fortnight. but hey probably won't last that long.

Does no one have any wrecks out there or a stuffed engine??

Hey guys, am needing 2 knock sensors and the small loom for them. I think rb20 and 25 are the same, so if anyone has any wrecks around, i need it soon. Cheers Pm me or call me on 0412957329 Robb

Mate i seriously never really payed much attention. I also haven't heard it for nearly a year, but no its not high pitch. Cheer Robb

It sounds like a blow off valve, Tssshh If you can imagine, you take off, comes on boost Rrrrrrrmmm, then change gears and Tssssshhh!! heheh sorry mate

In the shire, miranda Thanks for that RBman C'mon someone want to make some offers??

bump, c'mon someone must want some stuff

I have for sale a few parts that need to go to pay for new turbo. RB26 Clear Cam gear cover (genuine Trust) Brand new!! $150 ---Sold--- RB Genuine Tomei Cam Gears, used a little, but in good condition $380 Custom RB30 Twin throttle plenum. I made it for someone who was going to go for highish power N/A RB30 but decided to go twin cam head instead. It has had a lot of port and sanding work to make the air flow as linear and undisturbed as possible. Can also be used for turbo application and also uses standard AAC Valve. $500 I have a Monza Blow off valve thats on some 3" pipe, works fine, have gone to a different setup and needed a plumback. $100 T04e Garrett turbo, off a running rotary that put out nearly 350rwhp. has a .7 a/r compressor housing and 57mm wheel. turbine is a 1.32 a/r with 'p' trim wheel and is T4 flanged. The bearings are a little worn and advised to get them done. I was going to use the turbo as a build up to a T66 wheel and the like but have toned down my power levels and going smaller turbo. turbo is also external gated. $400 I also have a RB30 cam gear cover that has had a circle cut for an adjustable cam gear and then powder coated silver. Its a little dirty, but still good $50 Any questions or want any more pics, please PM me or phone 0412957329 Robb