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Sure have! Unfortunately they don't have that sort of detail! Easiest way is to just get a photo of someone else's connector I think! Thanks for your response

Hi All Just tidying up some of the previous owners messy wiring and have run the HDI oil temp gauge wiring through a proper firewall bung instead of through the guard (yuck). unfortunately, when pulling the connector through the bung (white one which goes into the back of the gauge), the wiring popped off the connector, and I can't remember which they should go back into!! Here is the connector and the two wires for the oil temp sensor. Can anyone please look at their wiring and let me know which wires go into which holes? From the image, left to right there are 6 options .. so looking for something like, red goes into connection 3 (from left) and black goes into connection 4 (from left) This is the gauge: http://www.hybrid-power.com/#!product/prd1/2889929601/hdi-super-oil-temperature-gauge-drb-series-sotg Thanks for any help!! Cheers

cleaned out the intake manifold - removed the silly butterfly valve in the neo intake, regapped the plugs and ran a compression test cyl1-6 200, 120, 170, 160, 170, 190 would the low values on #2 cyl cause these issues? worth swapping a new short block with 190psi across the board?

Just thought it was a bigger job than you just described it to be. Will have a look tonight.

Does anyone have any photos of which solenoid needs to removed? Thanks! - also why would a metal plate need to be installed to replace said solenoid once removed?

the tuner added timing to try get rid of the dip but it had no effect. It was done as a diagnostic measure to try eliminate possible reasons for the dip. if even a really advanced spark doesnt make a change, then the problem must be mechanical right? the z32 afm has not been tested in another car, but it has not shown any abnormal behavior. it has fine resolution up to 160kw initially, and then again up to 200kw on the second tune (around 3v on the first power level, and 3.4v on the second). I would expect if it was the afm, we would be seeing some weird outputs and perhaps even a flow ceiling, but the second tune with an increase in power and hence flow resolution sort of rules that out.. but if that power/torque curve could be a result of a faulty meter, then I can definitely add that to the list of things to diagnose. no fault codes were found, and my tuner removed all safeguards temporarily to make sure the computer wasnt trying to safemode or anything, for example, fault knock sensors can cause the ecu to pull lots of timing to protect the engine when there is nothing wrong, so we pulled that to be sure it wasnt. essentially my tuner has eliminated all possible electronic causes out, hes increased the output of the ignition system, there is no missfire and there is plenty of fuel. current tune now has no ignition dumping to try quick fix the dip, holds a safe AFR throughout the range, so its up to me to try find the cause. if I can fix it, the ecu should be able to relatively safely extrapolate fuel and timing to keep it safe, but i will definitely put it back on the dyno

as far as I know, boost is holding steady at 12psi through the rev range - measured on a prev dyno run which was done on a hub dyno. this time round we didnt have all the sensors hooked up through the wheel dyno so I can't be sure, but I had the dyno operator working the 4th gear pulls and keeping an eye on the electronic boost gauge and didnt notice any sudden drops. one thing to note is that the z32 afm voltage ramps up to ~3.4v and then holds which indicates some sort of flow problem somewhere - it maxed at 3v last tune, and I found a baffle in my exhaust had caused a restriction. so I replaced the entire exhaust and now making 40kw more, but still something is wrong ...

would a faulty CAS create a crazy dyno result like that?

thanks for the responses people. The tuner recommended that I check the cam timing. The crank angle sensor - if faulty -should have given off some signals (e.g. vibrations etc) if it was the cause but I will be getting a replcacement to troubleshoot that as well. The tuner tried to smooth out the curve with everything he had at his disposal, added a ton of timing at the dip to try offset potential ignition issues etc. no luck. so we returned everything back to 'standard' so I could troubleshoot the issue without worrying about how it would affect the tune. Turbo issues is last on my list but with such a good spool and also a carry on on a decent boost curve after the crazy dip, then i doubt the tutbo is the issue here, i am betting on some sort of cam or valve priblem when it hits a resonant frequency. any another ideas are most welcome, the turbo should be making another 50kw and it is unfortunate that i am missing that power

see the pic! History rb25de neo in a r32 shell all supporting mods - fuel, ignition is not an issue (wasted spark setup), external gate is off the turbo exh housing at 35mm. air flow meter is a functioning z32 afm. tune is thru a nistune (or chipped std ecu).walbro 255, turbo is 'unkonwn' but has been reported to me as a t04 variant. but from the graphs, it spools fairly late and should make more power than it is. the worrying part is the odd dip!! does anyone have an explanation or a theory from prev experience? exhaust is 3" from the catback at least attached dyno sheet is from the above config my tuner thinks it could be a cam timing problem or an upset turbo with missing blades etc. any help or suggestions much appreciated.

Yes but the correct wires have been cut as evidenced by the hicas dash light behaving itself

Thanks everyone for the responses fluid levels are fine PS belt is there, but squeaks sometimes stock steering wheel - no mods would getting a larger PS pulley (and overdriving it) damage anything at all? Should I install a non-hicas PS pump instead? Thanks everyone

I've locked out the HICAS, looped the power steering lines to the rear solenoid which greatly improved the power steering feel, but was wondering if there was more I could do to improve the feel. Or .. maybe I have an electrical problem .. any ideas on how to diagnose where the issue might be?

I would like to increase the strength of my power steering in my r32 coupe. Anyone have any ideas on how I might do this? Anyone done this? It would be nice to be able to more easily control the wheel with one hand while the other is on the shifter while course correcting etc. My daily lancer has great power steering!

Install went fine (welds were messy for my taste - will get them re done at some later point, no leaks so far) no issues with direction as far as I can tell. thanks

word of advice - if you're not buying a reputable brand oil filter adaptor, check the fittings are tolerance controlled properly. my centre fitting was the correct thread at 3/4 -16 but the tolerance was off enough to start binding when screwing on the filter. when purchasing, ask if you can fit a test filter to confirm the threads etc. anyway, everything went on fine, I have my sensors in, no leaks, gauges work great. peak and hold functions with warning lights and buzzers. R32's run suprisingly low idle oil pressure ..

did some research (should have done so first) and found that for a oil filter sandwich plate purely used for sensor attachments, the port orientation doesnt matter - due to the engine oil entering the filter around the edges and returning down the centre fitting. An oil cooler filter sandwich plate however does have diversion plates etc to make sure there is adequate flow through the cooling system. here is an image for an adaptor plate with four 1/8 NPT fittings, which is odd because other than oil temp and oil pressure, i'm not sure what you would use the other two fittings for ...

There are 4 ports on the oil filter sandwich plate - does it matter which ones I use for which sender? Cheers

Thanks have ordered one and will get it fitted soon. When its done will confirm in his topic Thanks

for the $, get some cams.

turbo, manifold, intercooler, tune and you've got yourself a great +t dont forget the drivetrain/suspension mods!

checked error lights? maybe you have a faulty sensor

a genuine 57 trim will flow in the region of 400 to 450 hp buy some genuine 600cc+ injectors throw away your fpr (or set it back to 1:1 rising rate) get a decent fuel pump get a standalone ecu put it on the dyno and tune until you start seeing your intake temps blow out (turbo efficiency range exceeded) or you run into some sort of restriction the auto box may cause you some issues ...

Thanks for the response mate. The weave looked identical on both sides as well Will see how the install etc goes today. Cheers

Hi I bought a 3inch flexi for my exhaust system from ebay/trademe and it did not come with an indication of an 'inlet side' and 'outlet side' i.e. which direction it should be installed for the flow direction. All the flexi's the fitting shop had in store had an indication. Are there any issues with the direction of flow through a flex pipe? Or is the mechanic trying to shaft me? Cheers