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car is a r32 with a r34 rb25de engine the car passed a warrant (government land safety transport check thing) 5 days ago so i think all fluids were checked, but i will look again when i get the car tonight. thanks for your reply though does anyone else have any clues?

hi there my r32 has a r34 rb25de neo installed in it. this conversion was done using the r32 loom and ecu (previous engine in the r32 was a rb25de anyway so basically it was just replaced with a newer rb25de which has vct). currently the vct is not hooked up. i have the r34 loom and ecu available to me. i want to enable the vct. what is the easiest way to do this? i guess there are several options: 1. plug in the r34 ecu into the r32 loom and run the required wires from the ecu plugs to the vct system on the engine 2. replace the loom and ecu with the r34 items (probably the most labour intensive) 3. wire some sort of rpm switch for the vct. another question would be: are the fuel/ignition maps on the r34 ecu better than the r32 ecu? i.e. will i make more power with the r34 ecu? Thanks

does your hicas actually work? how can you tell if its working? is the flashing mean that its steering from the rear? help! haha

previous owner says that there is no oil in the hicas? never dealt with nissans and hicas before so not sure what this means. hicas light flashes on the dash sometimes, not all the time. whats the deal here? Cheers!

drove a r32 with a rb25de installed (engine and gearbox from a r34). pulling from low revs in 2nd gear, engine would rev normally up to about 2.5k rpm then the engine would stop revving throttle is wide open and nothing - almost like im coasting. then suddenly the engine will pick up again and rev out like normal. when driving normally (shifting from decent revs in first into second) even through the 2.5-3k mark, there is no problems. the guy im buying the car off says its something to do with the fact that the car is still running an auto differential or something to that effect. is this something i should be concerned about? install and engine and gearbox looks clean apart from this issue. i am thinking of buying the car tomorrow evening so please any responses would be appreciated. thanks

check out nico club for a wealth of information on the vh45de (and +tt projects) as far as i can recall, the vh45de auto box is the same auto box (internal wise) as the 300zx vg30dett auto box, so it should be good for a fair bit of torque. a rebuild kit or a transmission cooler would be good if you're looking to keep it alive at 400rwkw. fitting a manual box will require some custom fabrication or an adaptor plate for the 300zx manual box. these are available from mazworx in the US. check out their site for details and pricing. there is a user on nico club running your exact setup (vh45dett and lpg injection). running about the same power levels as well. except his engine is in a SUV of some sort, i think it's a nissan patrol. i dont think the tranny or the differential will be stressed too much, you'll probably lose traction before being able to put too much torque through the drivetrain to break anything. hopefully anyway

turbo death

whats your diff ratio, and tire size? work out your theoretical geared top speed then you will need to find out your drag coefficient which isnt usually very accessible data unless you either 1. have a wind tunnel 2. find your actual top speed and have accurate power figures as well ps. 302kmh is approx 187mph thats pretty fast for a standard skyline two main components for calculating theoretical top speed rolling resistance drag due to air resistance rolling resistance is fairly linear so easy to calculate drag due to air resistance has a cube relationship to speed. so the increase of 250kmh to 300kmh is a factor of 1.2 the power increase you need is the cube of this factor (1.2) = 1.728 using very average numbers for coefficient of friction, average combustion efficiency and average drivetrain losses, you need 408hp (flywheel hp) to reach 187mph. very rough numbers though but just to give you the scale of things.

thanks for the reply. I'm only looking to ever push 200rwkw on the rb20de+t, maybe 230 if it won't lag too much would you be able to get more details about this rb20de+t from WA? mods? dyno sheets?

are you being serious? big cams to me means long duration, more overlap both qualities which decrease low rpm performance

yes a small shot of nitrous can bring on boost a lot quicker. nitrous is used in drag cars to spool the large turbo's off the line (the ones which do not use antilag) much healthier for the turbo and cost effective as well given that these type of cars only spend a few seconds on the bottle - throttle plate is left open for the remainder of the run so the turbo does not come off boost. it is not a stupid idea like some people have dismissed. the tuning side of things is not as complicated as you might think. nitrous has is an expanding compressed gas and simple thermodynamics will show that this drastically decreases the intake charge and cylinder temperatures reducing the likelihood of detonation. a wet nitrous system injects fuel as well as nitrous into the intake charge (on top of the fuel injectors). since the oxygen content in combusting nitrous oxide is a set ratio, the amount of fuel injected in a wet system will match the amount of nitrous injected, resulting in no change to the fueling maps of the engine ecu. timing here could be an issue, as the timing maps can be load/boost dependant, but again due to the decreased cylinder temperatures, less likelihood of detonation due to advanced off boost timing. boost will come on and timing will be pulled anyway. in terms of nitrous control, a separate map can be used if your ecu is advanced enough/has the capability. many top of the line ecu's such as the very expensive autronic and motec do have a lot of tuneablility. simple method is to use a simple position sensor on your throttle/accelerator pedal i.e. at 100% throttle (push switch on the foot well floor) or any percentage of throttle opening (wired into your TPS or other position sensor) to activate the nitrous. a rpm based nitrous activator will result in an empty bottle quickly i assume. you theoretically could wire into a vac/pressure source, and trigger when your intake plenum see's atmospheric pressure (which theoretically is when you have the throttle wide open or full engine load) but there are situations where this will activate when you dont want it. target afr is just way too complicated - engines under cruise conditions run lean, on boost, a lot richer. not sure how you'd work this one. here's a real world example for all you haters (albeit an extreme but you get the point) "To put it into perspective, the Boostlogic drag car ran a 13.9 @149mph without nitrous, and a 7.86@187mph with nitrous, but we only sprayed for two seconds out of the hole. Granted, that's taking everything to an extreme (GT5591+225 shot) but nitrous makes any lazy turbo into a totally streetable one."

that is a general rule. I've seen plenty of 10:1 compression sr20de+t setups running 1bar (15psi), and up to 18psi with good fuel and good tuning, a cool intake charge, you can run decent boost numbers on high compression engine.

Has anyone pushed the limits of a rb20de+t? There are plenty of people here in NZ pushing well over 300rwkw on rb25de+t setup's with stock internals (completely unopened). Not much experience i can find here of rb20de+t setup's though. or if anyone has any comparative photos of rb20de rods vs rb20det rods, or bearing specs etc i know the higher compression will mean closer attention to tuning is required, but there are many 10:1 compression turbo setup's running high numbers reliably Thanks

I mean a t28 turbo off a Silvia I was thinking the ball bearing version which came on the s15 Thanks

does anyone have any experience with this setup? dyno charts or comments on response and peak power possible i was thinking this turbo would offer very good response and a healthy 200rwkw

great thats what i thought thanks for the reply

Just a quick question: are all the r32 coupe rear guards all the same between different models (i.e. gts-t, gts, etc)? Cheers

upgrade to map sensor?

what body kit is that??? Nice R32!!!

do some research on static compression ratios and dynamic compression ratios. static compression ratio is determined by the volume of the combustion chamber at btc compared to the volume at tdc. dynamic compression ratio is determined by the cam setup. if your cam keeps the exhaust valve open for a short period of time during the compression stroke, then some fuel air mixture is lost, and the dynamic compression ratio is lowered.

cheers for those numbers, thats what im looking for. the silvia is a lighter car, but a lot of the weight advantage it has over the skyline is because of the lighter engine. As i said above the difference between a sr20de s13 and a rb20de r32 is only 100kg. so if your numbers are correct, the chassis weight difference is only 20kg. by running the sr20de in the r32, the centre of weight is shifted towards the centre of the car which results in better handling. I would go for a silvia if I could find one in decent condition! there are plenty of manual non turbo r32s around so it seems like a good option.

hey thanks for the suggestions of the other cars to race what I'm after are the sr and rb engine weights if anyone happens to know cheers!!

hehe thanks for all the suggestions! but I'd really like to know about the weight differences between the sr20 and the rb20, if anyone has the figures. sure I've thought about using a lighter chassis like an escort, but to be honest, I want to race a car which i like and like working on, so I've chosen the skyline. also working to a budget here and skyline shells are cheap as chips and so are sr20de engines. (nz)

1600-2000cc naturally aspriated racing class

sr20 is alloy block and the rb20 is an iron block with two extra cylinders in length. the rb must be heavier! i need to get the weight down. cant find a suitable s13 and ive always liked skylines