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Hi Tried a few searches with no luck Can someone please let me know what specs I need for the centre threads for the oil filter sandwich plate for a R34 RB25de? I have two senders (oil temp and oil pressure) to install (both 1/8 NPT), and I have enough junk tee'd off my factory oil pressure sender (turbo oil feed etc). So I would like to use a sandwich plate (and also be able to run an oil cooler later on if need be!). Cheers

parts are cheap with all the aftermarket and stock turbo gear floating around - you dont really need anything custom. what's going to be expensive is the tune - and tune is essential to keeping a +t running reliably and with high numbers

cheers! just noticed though that gts-t gunmetal and GTR gunmetal are two different colours!!

Did this in the weekend - very messy - make sure you buy new powersteering fluid, and lay something down 3/8" hose is fine - you only need half a meter (i bought 1m to be safe) see the pic for the two lines you need to connect, can't have too many photos!

the good man got back to me - vertex side skirts

Does anyone know what side skirts these are? Cheers

I have a broken wing mirror passenger side, and the paint is really terrible on the door, I have found someone selling a GTR passenger door, complete ... will it fit? Cheers

the muffler is not in great condition - will replace it this weekend. cheers right, sorry about that. i had a chat with my tuner, he says he played around with the vct and it didnt look like there was a problem there. He will check the cam timing before it goes back onto the dyno. will be dropping the entire exhaust and making sure it is alright - most likely will just get a new rear section rebuilt to be sure. I dont have the output from the previous dyno runs on hand. what do you mean by wavy? which curve? Is there any other way to troubleshoot a faulty CAS? Thanks everyone for their responses!!

Cat has been removed - exhaust set up is as follows factory exhaust manifold 38mm gate taken off the manifold before the turbo custom downpipe with external gate plumbed back in no cat 3.5" exhaust with one resonator and one rear muffler (installed prior to purchasing car).

sorry for the confusion, i meant inlet manifold - only took pressure readings on the intake side post turbo pressure held 12psi, inlet manifold pressure held 12psi as well. no power change from 5 to 12psi.

while the problem was being diagnosed, the turbo oil feed line had a minor split and so we shut it down - didn't want to pull any power runs until we sorted that out since a major failure on the pressure side of the oil system would mean dead engine real quick. we only took pressure values from the intake side, from the nipple right after the turbo compressor housing, and again at the inlet manifold. pressure readings were the same at both locations I'm getting the oil line sorted shortly and just wanted to hear any opinions before I started down the road of figuring out this problem we pulled the timing right back while trying to diagnose on the dyno with no change to the power output - surely if the belt was off we would have seen some changes there?

91 r32 just came off the dyno rb25det t3/t04e supporting fueling modifications we are hitting a ceiling at 160rwkw at 5psi. ran up to 12psi and pulled all timing back and no change in power output engine sounds fine on the headphones, air fuel ratios are safe, we have fuel for more power even at base pressure. turbo responds like a mid sized t3/t4 hybrid - positive pressure around 3000rpm, no weird noises took a pressure reading from after the turbo, and also at the manifold - exactly the same power curve so we don't think it is a restriction in the intake/intercooler piping airflow meter (z32) output voltage ramps up quickly with boost and then holds static voltage from there (with increasing rpm and boost). the exhaust came with the car - I am thinking a collapsed muffler (baffles) or something??? it is 3.5" all the way through with one resonator and a rear super dragger muffler, but it is quite quiet has anyone else run into similar issues before? could it be any other part of my system?

the 270cc standard injectors held up to 200rwkw with a safe a/f ratio on the dyno. but the tune was accomplished with a chipped ecu and an increase in fuel pressure (only about 10psi). with 6 cyl engines, usually the cc rating of the injectors represent the supported horsepower, so 270cc injectors will max out with 270 hp, or just over 200kw. bump the fuel pressure a bit and you can make 200rwkw with some injector duty to spare. just be aware that walbro pumps dont like going overpressure by more than 10psi, if you want to use overpressure on your fuel pump to acheive higher injector flow, i recommend a bosch 044 or similar. even better would be the GTT injectors which are straight fit and will hold 240+. GTR injectors require resistor packs and a custom fuel rail. 6-7psi on a standard GTT turbo should put you around 180-200kw and excellent response. factory injectors will hold with a good tune. remember that with increased compression (over 10:1) that 6-7psi may net you more than expected figures, and you may run into some fueling issues. no doubt on the spool time though, especially if you retain vct, and have a decent tune.

thanks for the replies. Hopefully the 20det box will hold up on the dyno - since there will be no dynamic loading on the gear set, just static loading mostly. Then I will take care of the 20det box until I can save up enough for a 25det replacement. The mods required will be simple enough. Also has anyone here decided to rwd a GTR box instead? Here in NZ we can get GTR boxes at about half the price as 25det boxes, but some modification is needed to remove the front axle transfer mechanism etc. i have seen in some performance car magazines drift skylines running 300+rwkw through 20det boxes, which is odd. do you think its anything to do with driving style? With drift I would think that if you are breaking traction easily, and have a sprung clutch, that the low traction on the tyres act as a fuse - i.e. the tyres will break traction before too much load is applied to the gearset. In my case, I am running 18's and 245's on the rear of my skyline, and a harsh clutch, so all the shock loads will be at the gearbox. thoughts?

hi all, running a rb25de+t with currently 200rwkw @9psi, going in for a retune with bigger injectors, afm, custom ecu etc, shooting for 230rwkw+ at the moment its surviving with a rb20det gearbox with a 3000lb pressure plate, full face carbon kevlar clutch, unsprung. So i think the gearbox is going to take all the load. The gearbox has held up so far, but not to any sustained abuse at the increased power level. i'm wondering, should i take my chances with the 20det box and just pray it holds up/wait for it to blow or pre-empt the blown box and source a 25det box and new clutch etc? bear in mind this is in a budget build car, and in new zealand, a complete 25det box swap including clutch will run me 3-4g incl parts and labour. anyone running decent power through a 20det box? it will get rarely abused (mostly a street car with some gymkhana work), but the clutch is harsh. cheers for any input

i have completed the exact mod. r34 rb25de+t in a r32. I used a t04e, which is a old laggy turbo on a normal engine, but on the high compression motor, its not too bad. run in tune is 200rwkw at 9psi. I am getting the car re tuned in a few weeks with r34 GTT injectors (straight fit) and a z32 ecu (with a daughterboard, remapped, and re-pinned to suit an inline6) because the z32 ecu is the only ecu which will plug into the r32 loom and has vct control. vct should bring on boost 500rpm sooner as well depending on the tune. will let you know what the result of the final tune is. I'm shooting for something more responsive, and with additional power, the limiting factor are the injectors which will max out around 250kw.

and finally my build is reaching its end r32 coupe rb25de neo t3/t4 440cc inj sard frp wasted spark conversion (no more coil problems ever!) walbro 255 pump 38mm external gate 3in thick huge intercooler 50mm bov 3" exh z32 afm z32 ecu rewired for inline 6 and vct (for the neo engine) run in tune was on std injectors/afm, 200rwkw@9psi getting retuned next week with the 440's and z32 gear, vct and more boost, shooting for 230 with better response. other mods hsd adjustable suspension r32 gtr brakes/hubs r33 gtst lsd hicas lock bar carbon kevlar unsprung race clutch 3000lb pressure plate sad rb20 box half cage terrible paint

400hp at the wheels (300rwkw) is not impossible on standard internals. we have drift cars running rb25de+t setups for full drift seasons putting out those numbers, so its reliable too, not a grenade.

calculator using a 25mm spacer says that i lose 2mm of clearance with the strut, and the wheel will extend out towards teh guard edge by 36mm might fit under the guard, barely, might need to do a little flaring or rolling. does everyone agree?????? i know the 53 was a bad offset to choose, but i love the wheel and it was a very very sharp price.

they are ssr mesh rims, very old school. picked them up at a great price so just trying to make them work. i wil of course be using bolt on spacers, and the car will be certified (you can get away with more in nz anyway). not sure where the actual rim came from where they'd be usinga 53 offset, never seen that sort of number before tbh! So just wondering what spacer thickness i need to clear the brakes on the front without sticking out of the guards. from what i;ve read in here, a 25mm spacer should be appropriate? any other opinions? cheers for all your help everyone.

5x114.3 correct spacing!

thanks for the info, can someone just summarise please the amount of spacing required to get this wheel on the front hubs of my gtst? I've already made the purhcase so no backing out now!

so what sort of spacers will i need.? the guy ran these on his 180sx with some spacers, he was unsure of what spacers he used though so i'm trying to find out. Thanks for all your help so far.

I have been advised i'll need spacers here to fit. Please help thank you!

michelin pilot sports standard r33 gts25t rims only went to third gear, backed off after that ... so not any gear found an electrical fault causing the lean spot, workshop thinks there is a voltage drop which is causing the fuel pump to drop pressure - resulting in the lean spot. hopefully we can track this down