clip14

i would assume either back cut wheels and/or porting and/or a large compressor wheel

200rwkw at 9psi more to come if we can eliminate a lean spot when boost comes on at 3000rpm breaks traction in any gear when you hit full boost, atmo vented external signals traction loss :s planning to leave it at the current power level while I sort out the suspension, wheels, tires, and learn how to drive ...

+1 for remapped standard ecu. its cheap and will support pretty much anything you throw at it unless you're after really custom functions or on the fly fuel/timing changes

if your power goals are higher than what you are running now, then i would not go down in exhaust housing size. you'll only limit the maximum power you can make

it can be quite a science to determine the best place to mount a cooler for airflow ducting helps if it is set up correctly. ideally you want the ducting to capture air, to create a high pressure zone infront of the radiator you're trying to cool. the ducting needs to be sealed around the radiator, or the air will prefer to bypass the high restriction zone by escaping out any unsealed areas. the next important thing is to have a good airflow exit from the rear of the radiator. ideally you want to also duct the exit to a low pressure zone (i believe there are some low pressure zones around the wheel wells). if not, then if you have decent front aero, you can also vent to the low pressure area under the car.

ideally mount the oil cooler with its own clear airflow. putting an obstruction infront or behind it is going to affect the flow of air through it, i.e. air is more likely to change direction and go around your oil cooler than through it, because of the increased restriction. if you must put it infront of the intercooler, you should check the temperature of the air after its gone through a fully loaded oil cooler, then compare it versus the temperature of the compressed charge passing through the intercooler at that point. what you dont want is the temperature of the air after the oil cooler to be above that of your intake charge... you'll end up adding heat to your intake charge (the opposite of what you want). if you are confident this is not the case, then the best place to put it is on the hot side of the intercooler. more chance of the heated air after the oil cooler to still be below the intake charge temp. if you put it on the cold side, you run the risk of heating the intake charge. if youre running 800 hp and seeing the track, i think you can afford to remove the indicator when running the engine at full load. think about it. an 800hp build is worth a lot of money and effort. dont skimp on your cooling setup. if your indicator is in the way, look at getting some proper ducting made up to take air from the opening you do have and shrouding your oil cooler.

some people clock up a lot of mileage. over enough time it becomes economically viable. depending on how much you drive, it could be a year to recoup the cost, it could be several. if you're planning on keeping the car, then its worth it.

how long is a piece of string? go on ebay or whatever australian second hand trading site you have, and price it up from there. buying a crate engine will most likely be cheaper. that being said, im spending approximately the same amount of money on a +t build, except i'll have all aftermarket gear, a decent tune, fueling to support 300rwkw, and i'm aiming for mid 200's.

composite gas cylinders are very light. worlds apart from your household variety steel gas tanks

220rwkw is running close to the limit of the stock turbo when put through a manual drivetrain. the auto drivetrain will result in more power loss, so you're unlikely to hit this figure using the stock turbo. bear in mind you can get a reasonably mild highflow to the stock turbo which will allow you to maintain stock response while supporting 250rwkw+. with all that being said, if you are set on keeping the stock turbo, if you want to hit your power limits, you're going to have to ensure that you address all supporting mods. get a full turbo back exhaust including high flow cat, get an electronic boost controller, get a full retune (not just a piggyback system). get a decent intercooler, you can get some brand name intercoolers which allow you to retain most of the stock piping.

take it to an auto electrician and turn the car off and ask them to measure the current draw on the battery. there will be some current draw, the auto electrician should be able to tell you whether its an acceptable amount or if something is wrong.

if you take into account the actual amount of air an engine ingests at high rpm, full boost, the volume of air sitting in your charge pipes is relatively insignificant.

check for leaks around your clutch master and slave cylinders. what you're describing sounds like you had a leak in your hydraulic system somewhere and pulled some air into the system.

plenty available in NZ, try find a wrecker who will ship overseas if you're really stuck

standard rb25de are well proven to handle over 300rwkw in competitive drift cars. make sure you have all required supporting mods and dont cut any corners and the rb25de won't limit your hp, unless you are shooting for well over 300.

from the top of my head there are a few reasons why. LPG injection systems were a bit behind the times for a long while, only recently are there decent fuel delivery methods to deliver a pressurised gas into a internal combustion application. the other reason as prev stated also is the availability, fitting and weight of the gas cylinders required. This has changed recently with composite cylinders becoming widely used and affordable. nowadays you can get a torus shaped cylinder which will fit in your spare wheel well. so all in all, a lot of the reasons why lpg was never used in the past have now been solved, the old ideas are still prevalent though which explains why not many people use it. lpg has a higher effective octane rating which means higher compression/boost/timing can be run. the cost per litre is also cheaper, although balance this out with the fact that lpg is less energy dense (energy per volume) than petrol, along the same idea as how larger injectors are required to run e85 (since its less energy dense than petrol, requiring more to support the same power levels). the ongoing cost savings are there, if you can work your head around the setup, then it may be a worthwhile idea.

oh yep, sorry about that, i was referring to rb26 high hp builds cheers

have you tried an ECU reset as well? some nissan ecu's have a self learning feature which adjusts the fuel mixture. you can get aftermarket o2 sensors. is your ecu throwing an o2 sensor error code to replace the sensor? if you're thinking of paying out for a genuine o2 sensor, look into wideband o2 sensor replacements. you may be able to score an aftermarket wideband o2 sensor and controller, which have outputs to support the standard ecu and narrow band o2 sensor outputs.

modifications to internal wastegates include better actuators - to allow adjustment and better response enlarging the internal gate port and larger flapper to suit - helps control boost creep if you're flowing more air.

did you gap the plugs correctly? And are they a proper heat range for your engine? second hand coils could still be faulty. try swapping coils with someone who is currently running their coils with no miss. this is all assuming your miss problem is ignition related. without hearing it myself, you could be misinterpreting the problem as a miss when its something else entirely. best idea: take it to someone who knows what they're doing. most experienced and helpful workshops wouldnt mind going for a 2 minute ride with you and will be able to tell you what the problem is by personal experience.

original question do you need a wideband the person tuning your car NEEDS to use a wideband o2. if you are tuning your car, then you need a wideband o2 sensor and gauge. if you are getting someone else to tune your car, then they need a wideband o2. /end thread

decent brand name fuel pumps include Bosch 044, Walbro 255lph. Make sure you get the genuine items though, there are some fake Walbro pumps floating about for sale which don't match the performance requirements. Some people advise using second hand pumps from 300zx TT and GTR's, but fueling is such an important part of any system, its silly to save a hundred bucks to pick up a second hand pump. a new genuine Walbro 255 should run you less than 200. Provided there arent any unforseen failures, a stock DE or DET oil pump should be able to handle a lot of power and be quite reliable. That being said, if you sink enough money into your engine that you want to make sure it lasts, or if you put the car through a lot of abuse, you want to at least get the oil pump checked out, and/or reconditioned. If you lose oil pressure for just a second while under full abuse, any engine, no matter how well built will be destroyed. Thats why you see people drop 2k+ on a tomei or jun oil pump in their high hp track cars.

^ what spring rates were you running? i assume you took them out because they were too stiff for road use?

rods fail in 3 ways 1. compression failure - this is rare as short beams are strong in compression. the only way you can fail in this way is if you get pre-ignition, where excessive heat causes the combustion charge to ignite and undergo full combustion prior to the piston reaching top dead centre TDC. this means the piston/rod assembly is moving upwards and the charge ignites to push against it. this is why you need to keep the heat down (lean mixture/poor tuning can cause excessive heat and pre-ignition, also detonation *can* lead to pre-ignition). keep your timing and boost pressures reasonable (i.e. stay within the efficient compression ratios of your turbocharger), and ensure you have enough fuel. 2. tension failure - this is due to over revving. rods and small end pins are rated to a certain strength and this dictates the maximum rotating speed of the assembly. if the engine revs too fast, the piston gathers up too much momentum traveling up (or down) and the rod fails in tension. you can avoid this by ensuring you dont miss gears, and not moving your limiter. if you're going to spend a lot of time on the limiter, you might want to consider lowering your rev limit. 3. bearing failure - when the big end bearing (usually) fails and the rod grips around the crank. keeping the engine well lubricated - enough oil in the engine, baffled and extended sump if you pull excessive corner, braking or launch g's, and keeping the oil within operating temps will help avoid bearing failure. also proper engine assembly and possible upgraded bearings if in a race application. the two other failure modes can also cause bearing failure. the weakest link in any system will fail first. if the rod does not fail in pre-ignition or over-rev, the additional stress placed on the bearing could cause bearing failure. like all engine failures, a risk factor is manufacturing error and fatigue related failure. a small imperfection in a rod can result in exponential crack growth in a high stress environment. thats why people shot peen standard internals to ensure that the surfaces are smooth and that there are no micro cracks which could grow under high stress and cyclic loading. oil squirters throw oil onto the bottom of the piston to aid in cooling. many, many race cars do not run oil squirters. they are not essential for a high hp, high abuse engine. a decent oil cooler and a good oil circulation system (upgraded pump if youre getting serious) along with sufficient fuel and cooling of the intake charge do a lot more to keep engine temps down than oil squirters. of course every factor helps so if you have oil squirters, then most applications will keep them (apart from very specialised builds where the additional complexity is not worth the advantages). sorry for the long post.

the sr20 club in the states have pushed 380kw on a stock block sr20de - not for track work though. several people in new zealand run de+t setups with standard blocks to near 300rwkw in drift cars (i.e. hard punishment). get a safe tune along with adequate fueling, lubrication and cooling, and you can run high numbers reliably. there is nothing inherently weak about the de block and internals. the things which will kill a de block will kill a det block as well (detonation, excessive heat, over-rev). det or forged internals will just handle slightly more detonation/heat/over-rev before failure