clip14

you could get a custom one made for not too much cash>? might be cheaper than purchasing a brand name cooler from australia.

you would atleast have to run the rb20det injectors. if any sensors are different between the two engines you may run into trouble there as well. nvcs shouldn't be a problem, it just wont activate. im running a r34 rb25de using a r32 rb25de ecu. nvcs (vct) is not active, but the car runs fine.

thanks for the reply. i thought it was 4 bolt so i got that backing plate. I will update this thread when i install the diff to confirm what it is. I got the bushes (not sure about the bolts :S) cheers

if you had the fuel, turbo and strong enough engine, why didnt you run to the limit with your tune?

are the post intercooler pipes hot? is it because its running near the exhaust manifold or close to the engine? a fmic alone wont increase power. it will allow you to run more boost and make more power. the factory intercooler might have been a bit restrictive so if you got a good kit, you might get better flow, but you'll also notice a bit more lag due to increased pressurised intake volume

have you taken the coilpack covers off? this plus the bonnet lift might help otherwise coilpack relocation kits arent too expensive

money is better spent elsewhere unless you've done everything else!

engine strength is not an issue. its tune quality and how close to the edge of detonation you want to run. any engine, even a fully built engine with thousands spent will fail under prolonged detonation or preignition. theres stock internalled engines pushing 300, 400, 500kw reliably it all comes down to the tune and the quality of your supporting mods to ensure that the measured fuel is delivered and adequate cooling/lubrication is provided.

if you can do fab work yourself and have the mechanical knowledge, it can be a cost effective option of course it takes a specific application to require a super/turbo combination. in track, drag, or most race applications, low end driveablity and torque down low is not usually a factor as gearing and driver skill is used to keep the revs in the powerband (top end of the rev range). twincharging can be done relatively cheaply using aftermarket parts such as toyota factory superchargers. unless you want something different there is probably an easier solution to lack of low end torque with a large turbo. i would suggest a good ecu setup with anti-lag and the use of cheap t3/t4 based turbo chargers (as you'll probably have to replace it once in a while depending on your use of the anti lag). or nitrous

sounds like you have the basic idea of whats required for power. your engine builder should be able to tell you what power range the engine he built can handle. 340kw is a lot of power so the other comments have been correct to address other parts of the car like suspension, drive train and reliability mods. if you have taken care of those and still require more power then the formula is basic if your engine is strong enough more fuel (injectors, pump) more air (turbo) = more power so bigger turbo, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, then retune, repeat for more power.

have you got the same injectors and airflow meter on your rb25 as you had on the rb20?

it will survive if your tune is good and your fueling is adequate

you can run 11's on a stock internalled engine if given its in good condition stock turbos under 1bar boost, exhaust and intake good tune sticky tires and lots of driving practise.

its an inherent problem with pre turbo intake metered air fueling system. once the air flows past the afm it should enter a closed cycle where the ecu will fuel appropriately. when you vent you are removing air from the metered charge so you'll overfuel. some cars run alright with atmo venting bov, some dont. try tightening the bov so it opens later, shuts sooner and decreases the amount of air lost from teh closed cycle. can also try an ecu reset. best idea is to plumb back the bov. if you're after the noise, get a gfb or other bov which returns half the air and vents the other half to atmo. final solution is to go map sensor and ditch the afm, or as some guys in the states do, use a blow through afm

sure a supercharger needs crank hp to run, but since it creates boost as soon as it starts turning, and feeds it straight back into the engine to create more power, the hp needed to run the sc is then accounted for. feedback cycle. eg. engine 100hp sc 50hp sc boost power gain 100hp total hp when you use the engine with sc = 100 - 50 + 100 = 150hp. net increase in power even though the sc takes 50hp, it gives back more almost immediately. the energy is supplied by the additional fuel burnt as a result of the increased intake charge pressure. you wont experience any 'lag' from a supercharger the power is not free, you pay for it in fuel. but you dont 'lose' any power from having a sc

how much clearance is there with the engine in the car to reach the factory boss? with sr20's the engine has to be removed to get the access required to drill and tap the lower block. yeah i meant welding a an attachment to the sump sorry.

many reasons for the dyno figures ambient air temp fuel quality any altitude correction factors differences between dyno types there could be nothing wrong. the only way to find out is to back to back dyno on the same day on the same dyno your car and another GTT.

shouldnt have listed that as one of the things you changed to cause this problem (your first post) hard to help unless all the info is there

the stalling issues sound a bit like an intake leak though. have you done a leak test on your intake piping?

you can get a coilpack relocation kit. gets the coilpacks out of the hotzone you can convert to mitsi coils, or to a distributor wasted spark setup. there is a seller here in nz who does mitsi coils to replace factory r32 gtst coils. price is around $225 au. plugs straight into your ignitor.

nitrous

was your bov leaking? by blocking off a leaky bov you could have increased the boost pressure the engine sees and thus hit boost cut.

stroke is controlled by the crank. not by rod length. geometry

sounds like a great idea. all the haters will be lining up at your doorstep. just price accordingly.

its called testicle torsion sometimes it happens when you leave a warm bed and go into the cold i wont go into any more detail glad youre feeling better. its a serious matter!