Kane_R32

So is it turbo or timing (cam gear) related? Or both? Whys the head coming off?

Durable? I've been wanting to re-do my cam covers, and was wondering will it "chip" when working around the motor (plug change etc) Looks good.

any idea on why it bent valves? sounds like if it drove fine before you parked it up that you gave it a hiding on the way home..

United 100 (still pump fuel), 550 Nismos, Nistune, Walbro, Cooler, Exhaust...Thats its basically

Scott, I work in Warwick Farm, so I'm sure we can organise something (not my daily though). I was a little worried it wouldnt get the number I asked, and when Dean asked me what I wanted to acheive (240 on 22psi), I was stoked that it was achieved. Keen to see the graph. Car really comes alive after 18psi.

Well boys, results are in. Very happy with the way JEM has handled both me and the car. Would highly recommend them. I forgot to grab my power run, but put simply.... 238rwkw @ 21.5psi. Will grab the dyno sheet next week and upload. Car feels so good/fun to drive.

x2 Would be good to name and shame, will also keep an eye out on the parts missing.

I think he would be quite impressed knowing that a simple fault (if there was one) can be traced through a couple of wires and a relay, rather then jumping on a forum and asking for peoples help Do a search on hard wiring a fuel pump and maybe you'll understand when you start to make more then stock power you'll appreciate constant 12v power.

I have been defected for an aftermarket ECU, copper couldn't see it. Basically the police will defect you if the believe its modifies/not original. Then you have to prove it to whoever is clearing the defect.

I have a pair of skirts in south-west sydney. pm me if interested

Why not hard wire the new pump (assuming walbro or bosch?) with a relay? That way as soon as you get reds, you get power to the pump before starting.

Probably not worth repairing, clusters go for as little as $50 on fleebay..

Cold start maps probably need looking at. I'd suggest getting a EMS competent tuner to have a look..

In my old S14, ran no BOV, came out of a round-a-bout one night and shifted gears, cop heard the flutter and pulled me over.. Basically said he heard my BOV, but after explaining it was removed and wasnt running a BOV at all he just left it at that. Each copper will be different, if they want to defect you, they can and will. Treat them with respect and they may just leave you be. My 2cents..

Got proof? I dare say alot of SAU members run or have run Splitfire's without any issues. Good bang for buck coil mod I'd take a stab and say the cheap yellow jacket coils probably has a faulty one - seems to be common

bump

couple of bumpers + lips on ebay for under 700$

Pretty sure on a stock cicuit (i.e not hard wired or aftermarket pump) the Fuel Pump wont prime until the key is turned to "start".

found and bought. cheers.

There really shouldnt be any vacuum/boost lines running into the cabin from factory. So you're going to have to have a look at what lines run into the cabin via the firewall and track them under the dash. You'll probably find an old boost gauge pvc (sp) hose that some one has just blocked off when they removed a boost gauge prior to sale.

lots of interest, will take any offer near $800

Artz: Prefer Genuine, perfect fitment Boostn0199: Sure will. Thanks Gents

Hey guys, basically my mate has a TX Coupe and is in the process of putting a S15 SR20DET into her. Now it's known that the engine is from a Jap Spec. My question(s) are; 1) Can I use Aus or Jap Spec engine wiring harness 2) Can I use Aus or Jap Spec ECUs? From quick glance some pinouts are different on the ECU, but say I got a Aus Spec ecu and Aus Spec engine wiring harness, will this run the Jap Spec engine?

Looking for a injector loom to suit a S2 RB25DET. Prefer pick-up from Sydney. Basically needs to be in immaculate condition. PM me please.

Hey guys, gf's R33 has a serious fuel leak from #5 injector. Anyway being a RB20 person, RB25 is a new engine to work on, so I've removed the injectors/rail and was wondering if the "cap" seals the very top (highest point) of the injector? or is it just the "upper o-ring" that would be the upper most sealing point and culprit in this case? Also a quick research on the interweb shows this being the upper o-ring p/n 16618-10V05. Can anyone confirm this and what our local Nissan charges per o-ring? Highly doubt they will be $2.00ea like FRSPORT (http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-Genuine-OEM-Injector-O-Ring-UPPER-SR20DET-KA24DE-RB25-RB26-VG30_p_60199.html).. Appreciate all feedback