Kane_R32

I have a gunmetal bonnet, had an N1 lip but came off Send me a pm if interested

how negotiable on seats? pm me price mate

haha you just reminded me of whats in my "draw of goodies"... JJR Cam Gears. Will get them and the Z32 in and tuned. I would be happy with anything over 240 @ 22psi.. Definitely is more punchy, but haven't been able to give it abit of a squirt due to laziness lol

Correct Scott. Umm I seem to acheive full boost around 4200-4400 RPM, full boost being 22psi. So definately not as laggy as the old turbo. Very happy thus far. Will post dyno results once a Z32 has been added as the standard AFM is maxing out around 16-17psi..

Mind you, my TD06 was the old (shitty) internal gate version. TD05 (external set up) was fouling the compressor housing on the exhaust manifold but about 2-3mm. Status, what sort of clearance did you have with the TD05 bolted on interms of compressor to manifold?

With my TD05-18G, had to use a 10mm spacer vs my old TD06-20G (no spacer), but thats because a TD05 exhaust housing is smaller so it brings the compressor housing closer to the exhaust manifold.

Hey guys after a R32 GTR Grille. Prefer Gunmetal Grey but will consider any colour provided it's undamaged/reasonable condition. Will also consider carbon fibre versions for the right price. Located in Sydney, and will pay postage costs. PM me or reply here Kane.

32GTR bolt in with some minor re-wiring (GTR Injector Resistor Pack). Problem is though with second hand you always run the risk. Spend $379 on deutchworks, & $950 on a Nistune (from Toshi inc Tune) and away you go with more power as well..

Just some feedback; I removed and thoroughly cleaned and reset the IAC to no avail. I have noticed that when pulling the throttle with the IAC connected the car goes "lean" and splutters.. If during the light throttle I disconnect the IAC, car comes good and doesnt splutter. Does this sound like my IAC will need to be replaced since I've already cleaned it and tried to reset? Though the slight lean spot on light throttle when being driven is present on the wideband..?

Toshi suggested AFM, O2 sensor and TPS. It's probably something so minor, going to put the stock BOV back on and check for vacuum leaks next weekend.

Idle: 10-11 (too rich) Light Throttle: 15-17 (too lean) Full Throttle: 10.8-11.3 (very safe haha) Sometimes on idle the AEM shows 17+ AFR and engine wants to stall. It doesnt seem to maintain stoich levels on idle or cruise... So I'm wondering if one (or more) injectors could be the issue? Or something else?

So basically trying to diagnose the stalling and lean conditions. According to Toshi, its set up for closed loop on Idle and under 0psi, open loop once in boost, so dont understand how its lean with the fuel map how it is

Hey guys, start with the basics; - RB20DET - Kando TD05-18G - Aftermarket Pump (unsure of brand, already in car) - Nismo 555cc Injectors (to suit RB26 with resistor pack) - Nistune Let me begin with, when I initially got the car tune with Toshi, at idle on the wide band car registered 10-11 AFR's. Light throttle would see lean 15-17 AFR's but under full throttle and boost would stay at 10.8-11.3. This was with the TD06-20G I had. Mid throttle sees 13.9-15.5... So since replacing the TD06 with a TD05 Toshi tried to set the AFR at idle to as close to stoic as possible. With as much adjusting on the nistune, second time around, car shows 11.9-12.6 on Idle, but now has a tendency to stall after approx 10-20 seconds of idling. It can happen 8 out of 10 idle's, or not happen at all. Still has the light throttle leaness and AFR's on full boost remain the same. I run a AEM wideband also.. When it goes to stall, sometimes if I blip the throttle it'll idle, other times it will want to stall again.. Now I've tested the car with these (individually) disconnected to little to no change; - disconnect TPS - disconnect AAC - disconnect O2 sensor Car runs no BOV, with a plate made up to block where the factory one lives. And has never run a BOV since owning the car. Car retains the factory AFM. Injectors were bought second hand. Toshi has suggested putting the stock BOV back on, I'm comtemplating doing this and maybe a AAC clean. Open to ideas/suggestions/theories... Kane

sell the lip less the motors? if so pm me a price mate.

Looking for a working Ecutalk, please inbox/pm or reply here Cheers, Kane

I had to reuse the standard R32 AFM to drive home from my tuner, so it's not a matter of swapping my Z32 over for another and taking for a spin. I need a car with a Z32 already in it that I can put my in...

Go with a canon on the rear to loose the rasp

+1 Coils. If it's fine off boost at 10psi until full throttle this will usually indicate old coils just not being able to provide a strong spark

Make sure its a full turbo back to begin with, 3inch minimum and depending on how "legal" you want it depends on how many mufflers. Usually a centre muffler and cannon or straight pipe depending on your desire for the rear

Hey guys if anyone has a Skyline running a Z32, and has 10-15mins for me to swap over my Z32 to see if my (plug and play) wiring or AFM itself is faulty, let me know as it would be appreciated. I Want to make sure my Z32 is 100% fubar before purchasing another. Or if there is a way to diagnose/test a Z32 off the vehicle please let me know/link me? Kane.

Need to replace my cracked/old harness. Would prefer an unwanted new harness, but will take a old one if the connectors aren't too frail. Worst case I buy from JustJap. PM or reply here. Kane.

Ok sweet, thanks heaps for clearing that up

Hey guys, made the mistake of not labelling my o2 sensor wires before the big *snip snip*. I assumed 3 wires, 3 different colours... turns out I was wrong (or its just old wiring and the lines are faded) Anyway I'm almost certain the middle wire on the plug is ground (alot thicker). Basically need to confirm that looking directly at the plug (release clip ontop): Left Side = Centre = Earth Right Side =

Does the return on the top only apply if both are on the one side?