Behind Horizon

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I already sold many parts, if you requiere any references please let me know. For sale are six brand new Bosch Injectors EV 6 CS (high impedance 12 Ohm, top feed). These come with matching plugs and custom made top hat adapters to suit all RB engines. RB20DET & RB25DET NEO - plug & play RB25DET - you will need a Greddy/Freddy Inlet Manifold + top feed rail RB26DETT - you only have to remove the injector ballast (done in five minutes, see pictures, you will also need to do this when using injector dynamic injectors) Be aware that injector dynamic injectors (all the rage right now) are just relabeled Bosch injectors and also require top hat adapters and new plugs. These injectors were originally used by Porsche in the 996 Turbo GT2 (480hp) and other models. Bosch part number 0280156012, max. 8 bar fuel pressure. These injectors are designed to work with various fuel pressures, hence the performance simply depends on the fuel pressure: 453cc @ 43.5 psi/3 Bar (standard-pressure), max. ~400hp, 480cc @ 49 psi/3.4 Bar, max. ~450hp, 555cc @ 65 psi/4.5 Bar, max. ~500hp, 600cc @ 76 psi/5.2 Bar max. ~550hp, 640cc @ 87 psi/6 Bar, max. ~600hp!! A good and matching fuel pressure regulator is the "FSE Motorsport 6 Bar" here or here. Datasheet downloadable here. Every mapper can work with these injectors, same performance and quality as Nismo injectors but just way cheaper. Price is AUD 490,00 including shipping, I paid AUD 1100,00 for them - bargain!. Please contact me by private message if you are interested.

Hi, do you know what type of front and rear differential oils the R33 GT-R "Vspec" model needs due to its rear active differential? Is Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip (old name is SAF-XJ) ok for the rear diff? What to use for the front one? Thanks for your help!

I am still interested to know what kind of compression ratio I would have with the 8.5 pistons....

No one?

The cometic head gasket I have came together with a RB26 complete engine gasket kit from which I used already half of the gaskets. Hence I can't return the head gasket and would like to use it. CP piston data SC7310: Bore (in): 3.406 in. Bore (mm): 86.500mm Piston Style: Dome, with no valve reliefs Piston Material: Forged aluminum Compression Distance (in): 1.193 in. Piston Head Volume (cc): -16.20cc Check the attachment for other data. I couldn't find data for the deck height so I assume it must be close to original with these pistons as their compression ratio is 8.5:1?

Hello, I intend using a 1.3mm metal head gasket with CP 86.5mm 8.5:1 pistons in my RB26. Can you let me know which compression ratio I will have with a standard non skimmed head? All the compression ratio calculators are asking for data which I couldn't find, hence me asking here. Just want to make sure that the compression ratio won't drop too much as I already bought the head gasket but not the CP pistons. Would you therefore recommend running 9.0:1 pistons or 8.5:1? Installed GT2860-5 turbos already. Thanks!

Is such a rewiring for a R33 necessary as it has the battery in the boot close to the pump anyway?

Hi, I changed my clutch recently and now I need to bleed my ATTESA system. I found this instruction but it seems to be R32 specific: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/161627-attessa-bleeding-how-to/ The R33 seems not to have a white bleeder connector in the drivers footwell? If so what are the difference between bleeding a R32 and R33 ATTESA system? I should add that I have a R33 VSpec.... Also what oil do you recommend using? Some say ATF Dextron II, some say III, others say IV... Thanks!

Thats obvious, but which Pins exactly have to be connected to each other? Edit: Just checked the circuit plan and now it makes all sense. All seven wires have to be connected with each other, I better get a strong soldering iron then.

Are there instructions which of the ballast resistor wires I have to connect together to bybass the ballast resistor?

Hi, I am just about to install ID1000 injectors in my RB26DETT. I read on the homepage of the manufacturer that all ID injectors are high impedance. However the standard RB26 injectors are low impedance and the GT-R has a resistor ballast installed as the stock ECU is working natively with a high impendance signal. Do I therefore need to bypass this resistor ballast? I am using a Power FC ecu... Thanks!

I will be using a Metal Head Gasket. I removed the head to seat the valves, the block will stay untouched. GtScotT, you mean three and not four increments of 47NM (3*47NM=142NM)? Still there doesn't seem to be a consensus here regarding this matter... The final torque recommended by Nissan is lower than the one by ARP. So how come that the head gasket will be crushed more?

Hello, I bought some ARP head studs (202-4207) for my RB26. However I am a bit confused as I am not sure which torquing procedure I shall follow best. The Nissan torquing procedure for head studs is: 1. Tigthen to 29NM 2. Tigthen to 108NM 3. Loosen to 0 NM 4. Tighten to 25-34 NM 5. Tigthen to 103-113NM However the ARP manual states: Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 105 ft lbs / 142 NM with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT. So should I use the Nissan torquing procedure but torque to 142NM instead of 103-113NM in step 5 or should I follow the ARP procedure (three equal steps to 142NM)? Don't tell me to ask ARP regarding this case as I wrote them already two messages (one 10 days ago, another one 5 days ago) and no one bothered to reply to me. So their customer service doesn't seem to know the solution. Thanks!

Isn't the whole point to measure the exh. temperature before the turbo? So why are you advising to mount the sensors behind the turbo in the dump pipe? Furthermore I don't think that there is a big difference between mounting the sensors in the collectors of the exhaust manifolds or in the turbo exhaust housing. But I rather prefer not to modify my new exhaust housings.

So is it necessary to ground the fuel pump close to the battery? Or is it sufficient to ground it to the chassis close to the fuel pump? Furthermore what is the minimum fuse and relay size? 15A? I will use a Supra fuel pump.

Hey guys, where do you recommend placing the EGT sensor on a twin turbo RB26? Do you recommend two EGT sensors or is one enough? If I decide to install one sensor I assume the best location to attach it is in the exhaust manifold runner of the 6th cylinder as it is known for running lean sometimes? If I choose to use two EGT sensors should I both place in the collectors of the exhaust manifolds just before the Turbo? Or should I place the rear sensor (Cyl 4-6) in the exhaust manifold runner of the 6th cylinder? Six EGT sensors are exceeding my budget if someone wants to suggest that Thanks!

Alright, thanks for the advice! Do you recommend using steel braided lines or the factory oil and water lines?

So why Garrett states that GT turbos need a restrictor if the oil pressure exceeds 40-45psi? I think they should know their product best?

Hi, I am about to install some GT2860R turbos on a R33 GT-R VSpec and would like to use some restrictors. I already used a restrictor in conjunction with steel braided turbo lines on a CA18DET engine with a GT28R turbo and never had any issues. Hence I would like to use a restrictor again. I read here that R34 GTR's have a restrictor in the banjo bolt which is screwed in the block as R34's have ball bearing turbos and R33 and R32 don't. However I checked the parts catalogue and to my surprise both the R33 and R34 have the same oil lines and oil banjos (all of them). http://nissan4u.com/parts/skyline/er_r33/1997_8/type_1/engine_mechanical/turbo_charger/illustration_1/ http://nissan4u.com/parts/skyline/er_r34/1999_10/type_1/engine_mechanical/turbo_charger/illustration_7/ Garrett states that many passenger cars need a restrictor of 0.040" diameter as the pressure entering the turbo shouldn't exceed 40-45psi in a ball bearing turbo. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_restrictor So what kind of restrictors are for sale which will suit the R33 with stock turbo lines? Alternatively I could press a round fitting with a 0.040" hole in the stock banjo bolt? Or do you recommend to switch to steel braided lines? SR20 and CA18 folks are usually switching to steel braided lines as the old lines clog up.

6x Bosch Injectors 440cc (480cc 550cc 600cc) Top Feed, EV 6 CS incl. Plug . Price AUD 490,00 These injectors are brand new and fully functional and are originally beeing used by Porsche in the GT3. Bosch part number 0280156012, high impedance 12 Ohm, max. 8 bar fuel pressure, can be used on 6 bar pressure all day long, the performance depends on the fuel pressure: 453cc @ 43.5 psi/3 Bar (standard-pressure), max. ~400hp, 480cc @ 49 psi/3.4 Bar, max. ~450hp, 555cc @ 65 psi/4.5 Bar, max. ~500hp, 600cc @ 76 psi/5.2 Bar max. ~550hp, 640cc @ 87 psi/6 Bar, max. ~600hp RB20DET & RB25DET NEO - plug & play RB25DET - you will need a Greddy/Freddy Inlet Manifold + top feed rail + use included plugs RB26DETT - you have to remove/bypass the small resistor pack see here Datasheet here: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/pdf/components/injection_valves/EV_6.pdf every good mapper can work with these injectors, same performance and quality as Nismo injectors but much cheaper.

Thanks for all your helpful responses and I read the linked thread. There are still some unanswered questions. I bought the -5's already but think it isn't bad to install them if I want to up the power in the future? I am sure that I get bored sooner or later with 500hp and will throw some forged pistons and rods in. I also already installed the N1 water pump, no issues yet but I am living in North Europe, so maybe not that problematic like in down under. Do I need turbo ellbows? If so which ones do you recommend? Read that many are using the stok R34 ones? Are there any cheap chinese ellbows which don't have the split two pipe design? Can I get away using a supra fuel pump? These are 150,00, 044 is more expensive and Nismo's are way to expensive. Or could I fit a second R33 GT-R pump and have a twin intank setup?

Hello guys, I am just shopping for my project and I would need advise and would be very thankful if you could help me. I intend on safely maxing out my R33 RB26 with stock internals. The engine has not been rebuilt but is in a good shape. I read that ~300awkw or ~500hp at the flywheel at 19-20 psi is achievable and are safe numbers for stock internals. If so I would like to stick to that power level. I already bought: Gt2860-5 turbos Apexi Metal Head Gasket 1.1mm ARP head studs Apexi Power FC d-jetro Mushroom air filters Splitfire coils Oil cooler Boost controller 100 cell metal catalyst 3" Catback BOV Koyo water cooler + SPAL fans New N1 Water Pump Set of Defi gauges Do I need new turbo elbows and a downpipe or can I use the stock units? Do you recommend using a different exhaust manifold? If so which one do you recommend? Tomei Expreme or will the OBX ones work too? Or should I just stick with the oem one? Can I use the stock injectors? If not can I get away with using a higher fuel pressure? Or do I need larger injectors and if so which size do you recommend? Can I keep my stock fuel pump? If not can I use a supra fuel pump or do I already need a more expensive 044 Bosch pump? Do you recommend using Camgears and/or Poncams for my power goal? Do I need a larger intercooler or will my stock unit work? Furthermore which clutch do you recommend? Can I get away using a strong aftermarket single plate one or will I need a twin plate one? Which clutch models can you recommend? Sorry for all the questions but I really appreciate your help . Thanks!

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