Cubes

Home made. The black paint is actually still there..... On the outside.

A little OT but.... Pete usually the problem with the splits is the area behind the gate. When the flap opens it tends to block part of the opening which tends to result in slightly more boost or worse case creep. Shaun was telling me he's had a play with splits/bell mouths on the dyno and didn't notice any difference (power etc) between the two (providing boost is kept constant). The only time the split was beneficial is when the exhaust is marginal for the power i.e 3" for 300rwkw+ and you run a screamer. Ryan.. Here's my dump. Can be improved upon but can't complain for under $100. Would prefer a 70ish or 45degree bend with the wastegate section a little longer and merging smootly in to the pipe. Maybe the sharpish push in to the stream of the turbine gas is creating a little back pressure in front of the turbine wheel allowing greater flow for the wastegate, hence boost drop to ~2psi above the actuators rating.

How are the Legnum for mods? At a guess it would have to make a solid 300kw at the wheels. If $$ wasn't an issue I'd have to look at the new VE Sportswagon 6ltr and drop a couple of turbos on to it.

I've always found the cheapest Toyo's can be had from Tyre power at Brighton. Last set of tyres I saved $10 per tyre compared to jack bakers. Toyo Proxes 4

Troy. 10% eth does not kill engines unless you drop it in to a car that has been tuned for bp98 and running 12:1 afr's. The ethanol leans out the motor a fair bit; enough for you to feel the top end going lean and a slight power drop as a result. A stock ecu'd car will be fine as they run rich anyway so you'll pick up some nice power. What sort of octane boost do you run to crack 102ron? Toluene or 2-3 bottles of Nulon Pro strength? So how did they determine which fuel was best? economy power?

Ahh bastard. I think every single .6 I've heard of creeps to a 18-20psi

Bugger... Bell mouth or split? With these IW's they have no chance controlling boost with a split especially with a .6.

Nice... Now for some cams to pick up ~20-25rwkw on the same boost and then 2-3psi more boost and you should get damn close to cracking 300rwkw.

Probably comparing the 'OLD WORN' turned slippery Pilot Sports to the new fresh chunk Nankangs.. Doesn't say much for the nankang.

The workshops don't want to know of the 26/30 because they have no experience with them.. The cranks simply do not bend they break oil pumps so possibly a build issue due to lack of experience with the rb30's. Speak to Rajab racing and a few of the other workshops (inc. proengines) that build serious RB's they know how to get them to hold together at high rpm. i.e grub screw the crank. There are a few tricks to be performed its not just a matter of giving the rb30 a refresh and a good balancer then hope for the best.

Steve, They don't bend cranks. Speak to a few workshops that have built tough rb30's. Rods, pistons and a decent balancer is all that is needed.

WTF 7ltrs... That would be one expensive 'attempted' fill if he were to run Gear 300. :S

haha Adrian.. Your on the mark. I really like the mid range the .82 punches I really am afraid the 1.06 would feel I really don't think the GT3076r has any use for the 1.06 as the comp side can't really take advantage of available exh. flow especially with the availability of E85. The 1.06 on the GT3040 by all means definitely. Then I think bah to lazy the GT3040 1.06 you may as well jump to the GT35r .82 which has a 'similar' turbine flow to the GT30 running the 1.06 turbine housing. ----- Gary.. 450hp at the flyheel or more with either a split dump that re-joins the exhaust flow or bell there are gains to be had. Run a screamer or 3.5-4" exhaust and you'll see a solid 10+rwkw increase when up over 450hp at the fly (260-270rwkw+) so yeah.. Matt knows what he's talking about. When you say too little tension.. I've wound the rod in so the top end holds 16psi (up .5psi) but now the mid range runs 17.4psi peak. I could wind in more but I really think my problem is a dodgy actuator. No doubt there will be a point where boost begins to creeep up top due to the reduced flap opening but I don't like the idea of that method of boost control on a cold night. When set correctly with 2-3mm tension on the actuator it runs 15.5psi with that being made at 4500rpm and 11psi at 3000rpm. Turn the EBC on and 19psi at 3000rpm no problems. Lazy actuator. I'm fitting up an 18psi actuator soon so it will beinteresting to see if it rods of the lazy boost build when the ebc is turned off. The EBC literally makes 19psi (which its currently running through its mid range) a full 1500rpm earlier so something must be up with the actuator in my eyes.

Neo = solid followers. Grab some suitable springs from performance springs and shove in a set of cams with decent lift. Decent lift and they make power so much easier on less boost with pump fuel and you don't need to ring its neck by running long duration cams to try and make the power. 8000rpm is really all you need with peak power sitting just over 7000rpm and holding nicely to 8k.

Why T51r and 7200rpm? :S

I'd match the cams to the turbo. GT35r/T04z you really want to start looking at cams with decent lift (9mm+) with a mid 260 duration to make full use of the turbo on pump fuel. Ideally for street gt35r/t04z a mid 260duration and 10-11mm lift but thats not easily achievable with the hydraulic head.

From your post it sounds like when you back off the bov it leaks on when making a little boost/cruise. Best off to wind it right up so it doesn't let go until it see's around 15psi. It will choof choof etc at part throttle and around 15psi but response will be noticeably up. OR.. just block it off and run no bov with improved response. Aftermarket bov's are a pain in the arse; std gtr bovs ftw if your going to use them. I personally don't bother using a bov.

268rwkw I had no issues getting the power down once I dropped on a set of better tyres. 300rwkw is a little harder but it still hooks up well and is quicker up and rolling even when it is spinning/bucking around a little than when it was hooking up and making 268rwkw. Low profiles = FTL if you want to get the power to hook up. You need preferably 16" with a bit of a side wall or at the very most 17" no more. I ran around on a set of wide 18's and they were useless for straight line grip compared to the 16's.

DAS KAMU Just earned him self a 5 day holiday. Post material like that again and you'll receive a perm. ban.

Nankangs are really really bad. When I was making less power but with 225/50/16 out of all Simex and Sava cheap tyres I tried a set of 245/40/18's Nankang NS2's. The Nankangs were super slippery. Get rid of them. Throw on some Toyo R1R's or even better MT ET Streets.

My Proxes4 did take a little while for them to stop feeling squirmy. A few weeks so a good 1000km's.

ROLF. Yes. Then E85 it. <$1 per litre race pump fuel FTW!

Rb30 keeps the 4wd and the low mounts (as low mounts are part of the head). Everything bolts on as per normal. The sump adaptor bolts on to the bottom of the rb30 block and then on to the 4wd sump/diff. ----- 3k.. Sounds like an AFM issue. Make sure all the IC pipes are connected properly.

I'd do neither.. Slap a cheap rb30 in to it, 900 for the sump adaptor that improves block rigidity, pick up etc. 2k for forged rods & pistons another ~2.5k for machining,balancing bits and pieces + assembled, 600 on an ati balancer, drop a 26 head on and off you go to 8.5k providing the turbo's can supply the air. Depends what the N1 + 2.8ltr stroker kit is worth I suppose. :S RB30 = Full spool at ~4000rpm with 470-500rwkw on tap.

I kind of had a similar issue with My GT30 and the turbotech. It was very very fiddly to stop it running near unlimited boost through the mid. Basically the spring tension inside the boost controller is a tad too stiff for the bigger turbo and stiffer actuator. The actuator is a 1bar actuator, fitting the turbotech the minimum boost we could run was 19psi and that was wound all the way out with very little tension on the spring. It would hold 19psi until 5000rpm then dive off to 17psi. We pushed upwards of 22psi in to it and the same thing up top 17psi. Fitted an EBC, can run what ever i like through the mid range but top end dives off to 17psi. Still made 302rwkw with boost diving to 17psi. Now to fit an 18psi actuator to hold the gate shut and push 19-20psi in to it and hope for 320rwkw. Then E85 and 340 maybe 350rwkw if I'm really lucky.