Cubes

That it is... hows things Madaz..

Hey Bud, I pulled the single 1.5mm and blocked rear off my RB25/30 around a year back as: 1. Since blocking the rear restrictor a very quiet slight thud developed instantly on the first start at the rear of the head for a fraction of a second. 2. there was signs of things getting a little hot i.e not enough oil around to remove the heat. http://www.lewisengines.com.au/webcontent6.htm Note the recommended restrictor sizes. Hydraulic Head (rb20/25/30SOHC) - 2 x 1.3mm Restrictors Solid Lifter Head (Neo/RB26) - 1 x 1.3mm / 1 x blocked off

Fastrotor, Its just the can. The 1bar small head can with the kink in the rod is a piece of shiet. The large can controls boost much better but due to its straight rod does require modifying. The difference between the two cans with regards to spool is extremely noticable. As an example the GT30 .82 on the rb30det was making 1bar at 4500rpm using the small can, the 14psi big head brought this down to ~3000rpm. Massive difference. The big head can is also better at holding high boost levels as the spring is considerably stiffer. I'm still a fan of selecting an actuator rated for the boost pressure your running though. Dont be weak Lithium crank 18-19psi in to that stock rb25.

Throw the 14psi bighead actuator on it. Mine with the 1bar 'small head' had the same boost build issues, it was 'better' with the Profec B by a full 1500rpm peak boost but the big head actuator pulled the peak spool in by another couple hundred rpm.

Trick is to run the .82 IW. If you wish to run the .6 or .7 RB style 5 bolt turbine housing or .6 Garrett xr6t style you will have issues with boost creep. To help with boost control the best method is to run a nice big bell mouth. The splits tend to improve gas flow of the turbine wheel while due to the 'typical' split design it reducing the available area 'around' the wastegate flap. As the flap opens it partially blocks the dumps wastegate pipe, not good for a turbo that is running a flapper sized borderline for its application. HPIAB I can recommend; tweekit have never got back to be on several occasions when querying their products so sadly I cannot recommend them.

I can agree to this. It definitely doesn't have that typical weak RB25 ramp up sound when on the dyno. 180or200's car had me thinking it was an rb30 the way its mid range picked up instantly and roared as the loud pedal was opened up.

Trident... Have you had a play with the cam timing?

I was planning on stepping out early/mid Nov until I was asked by a few to hang around as a result of SAU/SA partially being used as a pawn. Now that its all blowing over a tad and Neil hasn't replied (a week is plenty of time) I'm out of here. Joined up in 2002; bought the car in 2001. Its been a fun 8years, learnt a hell of a lot. And finally.. If your going to present yourself as a car club invest the $$/time and do it properly then approach the Police. Remember you are representing SAU nationally not just in your little world. Stickers etc are fine just be careful who they are handed out too as they then reflect badly on SAU/SA as a whole. 'Typically' stickers etc are to be handed to real club members; if that member is reported hooning they are booted from the club and the request is made to remove the sticker. So keep safe and watch out for those highflows. Regency are now checking the chra's.

How misinformed. We are awaiting a response from Neil following the escalation of an email to his superior. Its been ~1week from the first correspondence. So unsure if they 'really are' interested in building a relation ship or not.

I bought a VS V8 5speed back in 99' that was on the road for 1 year only for the dash to rattle etc.. Drove me mad as it was a basically a bran new car. --- Ryan both of those cars sitting next to each other looked like they rolled off the factory floor. Unbelievable condition.

With fuel being half reasonable I'm seriously considering stepping back in to good ol V8. This time around with a slight difference - a couple of turbo's hanging off it. Only issue is it means I'll have to put up with a rattling dash and poor build quality with a car thats done low km's. :S

Time will tell then. :S

lmao. Hey wasn't just me it was the mods as one + admins of the board + a heap of pm's/emails and msn's I received. --- Its sad but my other half is going to own my arse in FPS's.

Cheers Martin. I have no doubt the mainline is a very nice dyno especially after reading up a little on them.

I left the lumps in the head as Chris miltons who did the head work said they are there to help with flow in the std log manifold. Not sure if thats guess work or what not. They smoothed them out, ported polished, valve deshroud and multiangle valve job. I remember mentioning they work the inlet valve job different to the exhaust due to the reversed gas flow. Noticeable difference before and after when feeling around. Set me back around 1.1k. I made everything spot on. Any little lip I removed it. You didn't match the turbo to exhaust manifold? As that was the biggy. See pic attached. I couldn't help myself as I visualised the exhaust gas smashing in to the flat edges, causing turbulence and killing power.

Also curious if it hits a brick wall. Did you port match the inlet and exhaust manifolds including the turbo to manifold. I spent days doing mine. :S Hopefully you say no and that is what the brick wall was. The exhaust manifold ports to head were way off as was the turbo to manifold. I smoothed everything out as much as I could. Inlet manifold plenum to runners wasn't 'too' bad but runners to head were a fair bit off. The nicest benefit i noticed is it seems like the turbo makes boost quicker on gear changes and in the lower gears. Seems to bring the turbo on harder and sharper especially in the lower gears which is always nice. So the above + the top end stopped falling off hard and now basically holds flat to 7000rpm. As I said above mine picked up close to 30rwkw BUT the std rb25de cams are fairly small 240(which is ok) but the exhaust side is 232 7.3mm. RB20det's and rb25dets run the usual 240dur 7.8mm lift exhaust cam. Mine are a set of regrinds from Tighe cams. 265/263duration 8.9mm lift. 221duration at 0.050". I've been told the ramp is fairly healthy and wouldn't want to go much more on hydraulic lifters. Unsure if Martin has had any jap cams profiled in the past for comparison?

Matt, My curve is smooth until I push over 270rwkw. Once I do it starts to have a tinny little wave. Valve springs have been done, cams done, exhaust is fine just the FMIC left. Shaun said mine wasn't slipping on the rollers and it was airflow related - then points at the fmic. Quite surprised the 2" piping with a 180degree bend has managed to get so far.

Curious how Guilt-Toy is getting 370rwkw odd out of his 740 injectors on E85. :S Lambda .86 is considered max power lean (which your already sitting on) so who knows. :S A little OT but this injector size calc. http://www.megamanual.com/flexfuel.htm 500hp needs 71lb/hr injectors. 71lb/hr is 750cc. 300rwkwish is around 500hp at the fly given the DD Dyno estimate 70-75rwkw drive train loss. 550hp = 830cc 600hp = 900cc Thats a lot of injector. Nothing a little fuel pressure can't fix.

Comparing the same car on the dyno all its showing is torque at the wheels in fourth gear for that given setup. With the GT3076 .82 on the rb30det mine makes ~200rwkw by 3500rpm (472nm) and then 256rwkw by 4000rpm (594nm) holds on to that until 5000rpm where boost drops from 19psi to 17psi. By 6000rpm torque is back down to 490nm. Peak power is made around 5000rpm where it holds flat until 6500rpm where it starts dropping off very slowly but not noticeable when your up it. I've sorted the boost drop issue now so it will be going back on the dyno soooon but this time tweaking the adj. cam gears. Currently they are set to std 110lca inlet 115lca exhaust. Fingers crossed I can squeeze another 20rwkw out of it on pump then off to E85 and see what she can do. Curious if it will push 340rwkw maybe 350rwkw from the lowly GT3076r. 180or200, Get some cams in to yours. It really opened mine up, basically picked up close to 30rwkw without any change and now each degree bumps power up nicely. The little wave in yours is similar to mine and I believe what whatsisname was experiencing. Matt.... I believe you said since throwing on that big fmic the top end wave disappeared? Shauns told me thats my problem; most likely the case as I'm still running the fmic that was only ever designed for 200rwkw. 450x280x90 but with (gasp) 2" piping. To make it worse the 2" piping does a 180degree bend and heads back under the intercooler. But yours doesn't show the same on the mainline... Maybe a little tyre slip? Martin does it look like tyre slip? Impressive result none the less.

Looks like its got a bit more in it if you were to tweak the ignition and afr's for max power. At 302rwkw mine makes a 594nm

I'm not convinced its worth the additional $$ when we are looking at 300-320rwkw with the GT3076/GT3037. GT35r is the only time I'd step up.

Interesting... The 3037 is a fair heavy turbo. Reinforce it SLYDA and you have a bargain of a manifold on your hands. Be thankful you didn't spend the $1699 price tag others are wanting. :S

Well if its 100% hung well (like myself lol) with no weight and the exhaust doesn't bounce around get it welded and be thankfull you saved $750 on the purchase of the manifold. Big deal if it cost a small amount to repair. IMO its worth the 'small' risk. EDIT:.. shit loads more than $750. Just jap now sell them for $1699. Thats a HUGE ~$1200 saving!!!

Is that an adapter plate? You would have had to originally stuff around with the alignment which you haven't mentioned you have done as of yet. Just that it just lines up which is a tad hard to believe as I've also done all the work on my own car and others and nothing ever just lines up.

Regardless if you think you have good setup by throwing around hks/blitz etc it makes no difference. Make 100% sure there's no weight being put on the back of the turbo. Remove your dump pipe bolts and all bets it doesn't simply sit there. Check all your rubbers make sure they are firm and not loose as a bouncing exhaust is just as bad as a badly hung exhaust.