Cubes

As with all cars... You can buy a lemon that requires you to spend $$ on repairs or you may get lucky and hardly have to spend a cent. I am lucky... I have hardly spent a cent over the 4yrs (137,000km's) i've owned my R32. Top radiator top tank - $90 S/h Clutch fan - $70 Clutch master and slave cylinder - $75 and $35 respectively. Pretty damn reliable.. Much more reliable than the 3yr old VS commodore I bought prior.. Within 9 months I had spent almost $5000 in repairs. Pwr steer pump, a/c, rear subframe, gearbox and diff. I'm at uni full time in my last year. Work through the holidays for mod $$. I have recently muched an rb20det gearbox as they don't like the 3ltr's torque. So my fault..

Thats for the R33.. We are discussing the R32 PFC. SK really needs to clarify again.

I had a boost drop issue with the std rb20det turbo. I was making 152rwkw on 12.5psi and when dialed in 1bar it made 155rwkw. Problem was boost was dropping from 1 bar to just under 13psi. Fitted up the ebc, set it in auto mode, learnt the boost curve and it held 1bar to redline making 164rwkw. This was almost 4years ago now.

If thats all you are after and you want THE best boost response with the fattest mid range and best reliability this is what I would do... 3" Front Pipe and Dump Pipe ('Flying Performance' type 2-in-1 job). Catco 3" super high flow jobbie 3" Catback Exhaust with Turbo Muffler R32 Turbo, steel exh. wheel (better still wait until it pops then do the steel exh. wheel, mine never went) Electronic Boost Controller (PFC Boost kit OR a 'smart' boost curve learning type ebc, NOT a fix duty cycle based 'dumb' ebc) PowerFC or ECU Remap. Bosch040 fuel pump & adj. fuel reg Nice CAI in to the stock airbox, Cut hole in the inner guard, feed pvc pipe in to airbox. Cheap Hybrid FMIC kit. Wind the boost up using the 'smart' ebc that will aid in holding boost, the regular 'dumb' ebc's may drop boost. Its not worth the risk when the pfc boost kit is so cheap. OR look at an AVCR or Blitz SBC-iD as they are both 'smart' ebc's. This will provide you with a nice quick streeter, the larger the turbo you go the lesser the mid range hit will be, it will feel all top endish. RB25 turbo is a nice setup for ~190rwkw BUT over the stock rb20det turbo running 1bar it does spool ~500-600rpm later than the rb20det turbo under normal driving circumstances. Take dyno figures with a pinch of salt... Mine making ~160rwkw was running to 100km/h in an easy 5.2secs, consistently. Untuned ecu, 1bar of boost, 3" turbo back exhaust, bar/plate fmic. Had it have been tuned I may have seen another 10-15rwkw.

Awesome... Myself hanging out will soon pay off. What do you plan to run?

It will work fine providing you stick with a single afm. The only sensor that 'may' not be used is the intake air temp sensor, I am not 100% sure what pin or if it indeed can be used with the rb20det pfc. SK has said it has or can be done? Not completely sure.

I'm aware of the front diff issue in the 100series landcruisers.. As you said.. Serious 4wd... and generally only when snapping second. For a general street driven 4wd with a bit of sand work towing a boat its perfect. Tonnes of torque, smooth, refined, lots of seats, NO BARN DOORS, huge towing capacity. Sure the Nissan's do have the drivetrain BUT they don't have the refined feel.

I'm 4.7km's via road from my exchange. With regards to obtaining an adsl capable phone line another option is to order an ADSL Essential phone line where they connect up another phone line only if its adsl capable. If not they simply pull out and you get charged nothing. Hope that makes sense... I've just woken up.

Its well known cars with lower diff ratio's are able to get away with a little more ignition timing, increase the ratio (numerically decrease) and you will have to pull some ign. timing out. It may be spiking a little at 3500rpm causing det also. The way mine is tuned now I can drop it in fifth up a hill and I will get high knock values... BUT how often do I do this.. never.

VL Turbo's have never run them.. But you are right it does help with high power levels... At what power level I have no idea as there's no reliability issues with 300rwkw's and no oil squirters.

Don't worry about oil squirters. A rb30e block comes with everything, rods, crank, pistons the majority are in perfect nick even though they have done high km's.

Mafia... Its a 3ltr.. The response is going to be there... You are going to have to slap the vg30 arse end back on the 3ltr if you want it to rev. Even then the vg30 turbine does restrict it a little. With the 2.5ltr its a fine balancing act... With the 3ltr you want quite a bit more exhaust flow in order to have a nice wide power band. For example.. Bl4ck32's rb20t bush t3/4 high flow. On the rb20det it lagged a bit, no where near as responsive as the stock rb20det turbo yet still made roughly the same power as the stocker. Once it was dropped on the rb30det it spooled the same as the stock turbo.. Its appears to be hard to stuff up on a larger motor.

Providing tuning and fuel is good the std slugs can easily take 20-25psi. BUT thats in a perfect world. Your not.. 95RON fuel you want a low comp ratio in order to give you that little bit more head room to dial in more boost to get the airflow levels up without detonation. N/A and turbo blocks are the same. Some N/A blocks don't have provision for the turbo feed/returns but its nothing that can't be drilled and tapped. The major issue is the blocks that don't have provision for (looking at the front of the block front on) the right side tensioner.

Mafia, as you are considering the 3ltr I would definitely consider a lower lower comp ratio than 8.3:1. 95RON sucks. Static comp ratio doesn't make a huge difference to torque and spool as much as increasing displacement. So... its a nice trade off, 3ltr but with a much lower comp ratio than you would dream of running in a 2.5ltr yet you can dial in the boost and still make more torque/power every where than the 2.5ltr. At least you KNOW it will be suited to the fuel you are running and you could dial in 18-20psi without det. A couple of options to running a lower comp is sticking with the stock pistons and using a thick headgasket, possibly an RB26 Tomei gasket that comes with the oil restrictors to prevent the head flooding at high rpm. Doing the calcs the std 1mm headgasket will achieve a comp ratio of 8.25:1 (rounded up 8.3:1) comp ratio based on the head cc's being 62.2cc as mine was. If you were to run 2mm tomei gasket the comp ratio would drop to a 95RON + high boost friendly 7.6:1. OR if ripping the head of doesn't bother you go the std headgasket, see how the 8.3:1 compratio goes, if there's issues drop a 2mm headgaket under it.

RB30DETT low static comp ratio to push those 2530's to 400kw on pump fuel. 3ltr would keep fairly decent torque and spool capability with a low comp ratio also.

I think it is.... Its the amount of air the motor is ingesting. How well the motor then uses that air is up to the tuner with regards to afr's and ign. timing. This is where its worth comparing WOT ign. values.

Boostn32, This RB26 pump, is it the regular rb26 pump, not the rb26 N1 pump?

For those in desperate need for a Z32 (VG30DETT) airflow meter APC appears to have them listed at $360 which is a pretty good price. http://www.apc-racing.com/browse.asp?cat=14&car=11

Being an RB20 the chances are the injector boots are cracked. Check out the connection, it may be corroded causing little or no connection. I had this issue with injector no. 3. Coventry's/Motor traders have bosch plugs for ~$16 each OR you can buy another brand that come in a 2pack for $16, I went the cheaper route and replaced all for ~$50.

No to mention your guards.

If it truley is warm and showing 5 on idle then something is definitely off. Way off spec. Apart from that the 8 on cold idle and ~6 at 100km/h is about right.

This is why I went the 3ltr... Improve that 0-speed limit acceleration by minimising lag and increasing low engine speed torque. Idling up off the line the 3ltr really does haul arse with the skylines low diff ratio's. Idling and simply popping the clutch with wot will have it accelerating off the line quicker than the usual LS1 V8, the V8's tend to bog down and lag a little before reving up. LS2's its around par on as they do seem to ave quite a bit more of a lunge at low rpm. My uncle has a 250i 6speed LS1 that really does feel rather gutless at low rpm compared to mine.

Power: 450kW @ 5800 rpm Torque: 750nm @ 4250 rpm Must admit the engine bay looks rather boaring... Prefer the look of the old RB. http://www.nizpro.com.au/terror_tory_main.html and here... http://www.nizpro.com.au/gtt_kits_main.html Isn't it nice to dream.

Nizpro have already been to work on the Turbo Territory. I am unable to remember the reliable power its putting out but 0-100km/h in 3.7 or 3.8secs and 11.7 1/4 all day every day on street tyres. They have slapped the GT stripes down the lower doors, lowered slightly on 20" wheels. Now thats a family wagon. The issue with the Forrester is its lack of towing capacity and we NEED 7 seats. If you have a decent boat you are better off with a Commodore or Falcon. All comes down to needs, when it comes to towing and seating the Territory scrapes in... Just... I also like the 100series V8 Landcruisers, if any one has driven an auto 5speed they are very nice and rather quick. As quick as my inlaws VN Commodore to be precise. Some how Toyota have made the big old landcruiser rather fun and responsive to drive.

Would definitely turn some heads.. V8 in that little thing.