Cubes

lol @ siksII... The other half will be driving it 99% of the time. Give it a few tweaks, and it should be sitting side by side with you while I tow the boat.. lol Even the Focus XR5 (5cylinder 2.5ltr turbo) appears to be quite a good thing.. Just a pitty its fwd only. I think ford has realised people love performance.. Not slow lazy AU's.

Or anywhere really.. ATS here in Adelaide do them for $120, they are adjustable + they come in various pressure levels. Right up to 17psi from memory.

I've only seen one unknown strut brace that positions the bar in front of the throttle body/cross over pipe.

Is it 'really' holding 20psi to redline???? Are you 100% sure. I have seen various 2535 and 2530 boost curves on rb25's and they all tail off, they do boost up nicely to 18psi or so and run awesome through the mid range.

[200] If its making the power then dialing in more boost will only be dropping off in to surge resulting in v.hot air + boost drop. ----- A decent boost curve learning EBC may help. The manual type elec. boost controllers only allow the selection of a set duty cycle through out the rpm. In order to squeeze every little bit out of it you really need a learning elec. boost controller such as the Blitz SBC-id or AVCR where you dial in 15psi and the ebc learns at various rpm points what duty cycle is required to hold such a boost level. The decent ebc won't fix a turbo that is too small for the power goal. Drop the same turbo on a little rb20det and you will find it will hold 17psi without issue, yet still make the same power. At the end of the day tune to 230-240rwkw as this is pretty much the max you will get out of the turbo depending on engine condition and how high/low the dyno reads. Disregard the boost being run unless you are not achieving the max considered power achievable.

Don't be dissapointed with the power figure.. The 5010mV airflow figure reveals all.. The dyno I run mine on I was pulling 4.98v to make 176rwkw. So on my dyno with the motor ingesting 5010mV of air you would be pulling 180-190rwkw. RB25DET's on my dyno generally pull around 190rwkw with 11-12psi. So you are definitely making good solid power for 10psi.

Coils.

More importantly what power is it making.. Turbo's can only designed to flow x amount of air.

Awesome... In 2 years I will be up for one of these to lug all the rug rats around (the other half doing family daycare) http://www.fullboost.com.au/news.php?newsI...llBOOST%20news# A performance 4wd with potential. Awesome.

The new 20t box with warranty (lol) was $500. A pitty I wasn't prepared for the big bang. I'll track down a well priced rb25t box get a tail shaft sorted and drop that in, eventually. Hopefully before this 20t box blows.

Maybe 1 or 1.5mm oversize with deshrouding from when I was looking at bl4ck32's rb20t head.

What question... lol

If you truley want minimal lag look at a 3ltr.

This pic illustrates the close curved lines a little better. Sorry Geoff.. I don't follow the Cap'n... Do you mean repeated high load that attempts to and may very well slightly bend the teeth every time? A little like breaking a coat hanger by bending it repeatedly. So definitely rb30 related?

This is what came out of the rb20det gearbox + lots and lots of large chunks of teeth, be buggered fishing them out of that stinky oil. Drain Plug The back of the tooth where it broke The mesh side of the tooth, looks as if the engaging gear was really digging in and not meshing with the whole tooth. :S The new box is very very quiet.. Feels quite strange, like a new car.

The price was without valve stem seals, cam seals etc.. So slap another $270 on top and thats the real price of the rebuild. All up mine came to $1070. I believe yours was $60 more due to shimming so yours was $1130. I also remember Brenton said the 3 angle is only good for one of the inlet/exh. I forget which one, they did a different type of valve job on the other. The cost of valve deshrouding, mild inlet port & cleanup, mild exh. port, cleanup & polish & valve jobs was up close to $500 from memory. Then there was the rebuild being a few hundred + parts, being the vrs kit of $270. Also don't forget this price was based on having 2 heads done at the same time.... Basically it was a stage 1 mild port with cleanup. If we were to go to the next stage we were told the bang for buck value spirals downwards, he said the rb25 heads flow awesome with a little playing here and tidying up there.. No need to go silly on them. BUT the RB20 head is a completely different story.. It needs all the help it can get. Chris Milton Engineering is well known around the Group A circles for their headwork wizardy, so hardly cowboys. A quick search shows a few results.... <clicky> I don't believe massive mounts of porting is the key with the rb20 head as the ports are fairly well sized, its the valves that are the problem. The R32 RB25's ports are not that much larger than the rb20's, you can even bolt up the rb20's inlet manifold without issues. The only real difference is the size of the valves, the rb25 inlets are 5mm bigger each and the exh. valves are the same size as the rb20's inlet valves. I would rather spend a little cleaning up the head then the rest on a set of valves, the biggest I can fit. Much better off than spending thousands on port work when really its not the ports that are the problem.

Solid lifters are solid lifters... Hydraulics are hydraulics.. They look very much different. The small pic on the nengun web site or is it greenline?? unsure shows exactly what solid lifters look like. They basically look like a little helmet.

Will be interesting to see what inet do with their plans (being bundled and all) now that helstra has bumped up the ULL price to $30. EDIT: They have already bumped their price up.

Andrew... I too await adsl2, hopefully there's no issues, I suspect there may be though. :S 1283kilobits is roughly 160kb/s. So pretty spot on for a 1.5mbps connection. Take the speed testers with a pinch of salt... I would consider Adam or Internode. Adam if you simply check email + a little web browsing. Internode if you want an all round excellent service that is always up with awesome international speeds. Do remember you get what you pay for... You can't go past internode when it comes to their service and quality. Well worth the few extra $$.

Solid lifters. There's a pic of the kit on nengun. They look like regular solid lifters.. Which makes me wonder, would it be possible to drop gtr lifters in there. :S I would assume not otherwise people would be doing it everywhere.

Bl4ck32 runs a nismo 2way adjustable. I do remember some one suggesting to adjust a little tighter so that it doesn't disengage so easily around corners, obviously resulting in slight tyre squeel but at least there will be very little clunk. He has yet to adjust it, its currently on the loosest setting. Let us know how the castrol performs. The clunkyness is the only thing putting myself off a mech. lsd.

Bump.

Obviously I can't quote exactly when a oil pump gear will crack as I don't know.. I would have the collar fitted to any 'rebuilt' rb25/30 that I build in the future, the small outlay now (it really is small) will save you $$ in the future should you miss a gear flick it over 7000rpm occasionally. As a note the vlt/r31 boys do tend to have issues when running the det oil pumps @ ~6600rpm. What is interesting is I haven't seen a stock rb30 or rb30t oil pump fail on the rb25/30 when flicked over this rpm. Possibly due to the design of the pump. If I were to simply drop in a s/h rb30 I would worry about it. If I were to spend $$ on forged pistons and the likes I would most definitely spend another couple to few hundred $$ on the crank collar. Mine doesn't run the crank collar and I have accidently missed third gear once, peak rpm stated 7600rpm. Makes me nervous. :S The tomei restrictor defeats the rb26's issue of dumping all the oil in the head at constant high rpm. RB26's have the issue so will the rb30/25/26. I'm far from an expert.. Proengines is definitely better qualified to answer the questions in detail as to why the pump fails.

Craved, When building mine up I questioned the engine builder regarding flooding the head with oil and using oil restrictors. He said he would prefer to clean up the oil return, basically as you said hone and improve oil return back to the sump. I checked the amount of oil sitting around in the head last dyno run, unfortunately simply improving oil return back to the sump was not good enough as I could see quite a bit of oil pooling well above what it should be. God help me if I ran the N1 pump, I am considering pulling the head off and dropping a tomei restrictor kit. :S I could block one feed off BUT I don't feel comfortable with knowing if there will be enough oil or not. Do remember the RB30's oil feed restrictors are 1.8mm vs 2.3 or something mm of the rb20/25's. So blocking off a 1.8mm oil restrictor may indeed starve the head. In the rb20/25 motors you may get away with it due to the larger factory oil restrictors. Quiz Bu5ter... He's been through it more so than I.

The collar is to distrubute the weight over the whole of the oil pumps internal gear. The R32 RB26/rb20, R33 S1 and RB30's all run a small crank oil pump drive gear. Basically a missed gear or a little bit of harmonics it causes the internal gear of the oil pump to crack, loosing all oil pressure instantly destroying your motor. All the oil pumps are able to be used with the larger oil pump drive gear. Also DO fit up a tomei oil restrictor kit other wise you will have the head flooding with oil soon filling your catch can with oil, especially if you run the N1 pump. Another option is blocking off one of the oil feeds to the head BUT this is a little bit of an unknown. I consider it safer to simply grab a rb26 tomei stopper headgasket and restrictor kit from nengun. For the price you really can't go wrong. Proengines are interstate.. not SA. I would post the crank, well worth it compared to the $600 JUN collars + fitting. :S If its done by some joe blow there's the worry due to lack of experience it hasn't been fitted correctly. Proengines appear to love the RB's. Can't get better than that.