Cubes

Near edwardstown? My Car was unwashed. I was up there around that time and I did see a pretty tough looking 31 give it a little squirt past me... I was on my way to pick up a few hose bits and pieces as it was going in for a tune at 12:30... Turned out a bit of a bugger as power over 4000rpm would flatten out due to valve float.

Coils... all bets are on coils... :S

Spotted Vange on Curry street parked out the front of a pub tonight.

Had mine on the dyno today. A few problems but won't go in to it as its not an RB20DET. Besides the point.. We were talking about a nice little R32 there. THey bolted a GT3040 up to it with a .48 turbine housing from GCG, boost control was erratic, multiple forms of boost control were tried, boost would constantly peak up then fade of peak up fade off.. It was put down to a bad match turbine housing/wheel match. A GT28 of some sort is going on it. With the GT3040 .48 it made 6psi by 4000rpm, not too bad, just a pitty it didn't perform.

Ppls, if you use the r32 rb25 n/a head please... please... please... stick a set of rb26 valve springs in there while the heads off the motor. Mine apparently had 'good' seat pressure, so much for that, it is floating at 13psi at around 4000rpm. Bugger. RB30Classic, grab a good second hand rb30e, drop the rb25 head on it and have some stress free fun.

R32 GTST Standard Rods 87mm Wiseco Forged Pistons Mildly ported polished head, port matched, valve deshroud and usual rebuild. Stock RB20DET injectors, turbo, airbox and filter 3" turbo back exhaust Bar/Plate FMIC No boost control, standard actuator boost level. Peaked at 12psi then tailed off to 9psi by peak power. Std AFM @ 4.98v, Z32 AFM @ 4.0v. RB20DET Injectors @ 92% duty at peak power, over rev to 5000-6000rpm would see 100% duty to hold a 12:1 AFR. 176rwkw.

What are you looking for? The BK's or BC's?

Yer sorry maxx. Seems like this cruise is turning in to a bit of a thrash cruise, I'll steer clear. Why else would ppls that are not a member of this board wish to attent otherwise.

My old Commo's rear IRS subframe cracked all the way through, the crack looked like it began from where the diff bolts up on the drivers side. Obviously gear slapping related. Cost 2k to fix... My rear wheels had what looked like 45degree's negative camber with the bumper touching the ground. :S Then the diff went... and the gearbox.. :S Simply looking at the design you can see how the skylines are so much stronger. Not that this is a comparo thread, just an observation from an ex-commode owner. Sounds like the center bearing mount has dropped?? I doubt the gearbox rear mount has let go.

I won't do the cruise but I will meet up at the end.... Too many cars for myself. Car is going in to be tuned up tomorrow... Finally.

Spoke to Bosch Australia today. 'Apparently' they have ZERO stock, Bosch Germany where the Z32's are manufactured have had a problem of some kind halting production. I can get a very limited number of AFM's BUT no where near the 31 that we need at the moment. I have been told to call back every 2 days as it shouldn't be too long at all. I'll make a few more calls tomorrow and see if I can scab some from various places around aus to make up the numbers. Obviously I won't send out deposit details yet.. Sorry ppls, if your keen you may have to wait a little longer. :S

GB now closed..... I will PM every one tonight with details of the next step.

Rotary is something that turns like a rotary.. Visualise it. Now go and turn your head lights on... Rotary.

Interesting Amaru... Definitely worth kicking your self. I've just replaced all of mine.. --- Recently did a comp test also... 153psi exactly across ALL cylinders, 30,000k old motor.

N1 injectors?

I replaced my o2 sensor with a genuine item. Around the same time fuel economy went really bad ~350-380km's to a tank, at times I felt what felt like 1/4 throttle travel flat spots not to mention the really hard cold starts. :S However, I had been having cold stumbling starts for a while prior. I ripped the injectors out and noticed a couple of the pintles were seated at different heights. Dropped GTR injectors in, trimmed the injectors by 58.5% in order to get them to drop in to closed loop mode. Initial drive... 130km's to a tank, 250km's by half... Looks like economy is back, rb30det.

Unsure on the advan 'plug-ins' The only way I can see it happeneing is if they have made up a male plug that plugs in to the exisiting std plug that then is wired in to the Z32's female plug that plugs in to the z32 afm. Either way wiring or crimping. in to the loom is very easy, from memory the pin out is the same, so simply chop and attach from left to right. Providing its the R32/R33 S1 4pin type.

I've left the mesh in mine.. Its been known to cause idle issues without. The afm plug does have to be wired in to the afm section of the loom, or more so simply cut and recrimp. I did remove the mesh on my stock afm, I swear I noticed a slight spool time decrease. BUT I had slight idle issues.

As blind_elk stated.. Its the rotary switch. Replace it then rewire using relays to preventing the same thing happeneing again....

Selling cars with mods is silly these days... Get more back by returning to stock and selling parts.

Drop a cheap running s/h RB30 bottom end under your 25 head Knore... Cheapest route.

Who's going to have a problem with having only 1 week to make payment? By Feb 8th... That will give me time to get the afm's in and post before the weekend.

No point buying a plug as with postage you can get it for the same price if you head down to your local auto shop. They retail around $17-$18. I can get them for $10.70.

Only missing under high boost ppls... I assume your running the correct heat range copper plug?

14.4 is a little high for a warmed up motor. Generally 14+ is acceptable for a cold motor however once the motor has warmed it will drop to approx 13.8v. Mine under full load at high rpm will drop to ~13.3v. I don't have any issues with coils breaking down. But.. I'm not running any where near as much boost as you. What plugs are you running?