Cubes

Be sure to check its not running a different afm or injectors.

On wednesday I will pm every one with bank details and my personal details for your piece of mind. I will also request that you let me know if you want an afm plug or not. Then deposit the required coin as you say.

Good to hear.

From what I've seen the problem with the 2510 is when you ramp up the boost you make the peak power earlier in the rpm and as a result power noses over earlier in the rpm. This causes the power band to narrow considerably, not what you want really.

Not too late JL... Postage to every one is the same.

Grab a set of injector plugs to suit a VL/R31 from motor traders.. ~$51 for 6 plugs. They come in packs of 2. Well worth the hassle of trying to trim up the gtr injectors to make them fit the rb20 plugs. The gtr injectors have lugs in different spots. + chances are your injector plug boots are split. Jaycar: Grab some decent wire and lots of it as you need to run 7 lengths from the loom just under the t/b right up to where you want to mount the resistor pack. a flux pen solder soldering iron Cheap multimeter for checking checking checking. Motor mates: 8pin Navara plug to suit the R30 resistor pack ~$2.90 3pin Navara plug to join the front 3 injector loom to the rear 3 injector loom. It will make sense when you pull it out. Dialetic grease - Prevent corrosion on the navara plugs. Crimping tool Lots of good quality insulation tape. Around 3 big rolls. Its relatively easy to do but will take the whole day as you have to remove the cross over pipe and throttle body. Be sure to grab some gasket paper or a gasket from nissan for the throttle body. Mine broke. To be honest.. Its a real pain in the back leaning over fiddling for so long. Dial in 58.5% inj. correction and it will start and idle perfectly. You may have to adj. idle slightly via the screw and then init the pfc so that it can relearn. Always set idle via the screw to as close but never over the value within the pfc. Doing so I get a 100% stable idle with no hunting or stalling. Mine runs pig rich on boost so its really only worth it limping around. EDIT: As the R30 resistor pack has slightly more resistance from my calcs dialing in +0.04ms lag correction will set it perfectly as if it were running the gtr resistor pack. I've fiddled with it, the adjustment slightly makes it run ever so slightly richer. idles, starts does every thing the same so I really wouldn't worry about fiddling with inj. lag correction. Fuel pump will be fine providing it was new when you slapped it in.. If it was s/h then chances are its 10 odd years old and most probably getting a little lazy.. So keep your eye on it. Old fuel pumps make me nervous.

NARDI, I've let the group buy go until the end of Jan... Couple more days left. There's actually been more interest that I expected. Monday I will PM every one with my bank details and have them deposit money.

As R31Nismoid stated.. Road conditions are very much different to the dyno. After my tune I too had a little knock when jumping hard on the throttle at around 4000rpm.

No problem r32_rookie.. Lucky bugger. Subaru_GT, these are the Z32 80mm AFM. You are after the VH41/Q45 90mm AFM.

Move to Adelaide, no restrictions, bugger all traffic, lots of roads, awesome hills.

I wonder if they completely stuffed the machining of the vg30 turbine housing, causing it to be a pos. ?

All the trolley boys have a car with a trailer. The car in question is a little faded yellowish ute type thing with a trailer attached. I didn't take much notice of the car to be honest.

Fat32, As we have 15 people I may be able to squeeze the price down a little. I'm literally making zero not a cent. Its costing petrol to pick them up. If so then I'll include postage or just give them to every one for the price I pay then you pay postage on top. I've got a rough price on the plugs... ~$10.50. One of buy of the plugs it will cost you $17.98. Unsure if that is trade or ?!? It may be a few cents more or a few cents less. I'll have to wait until the manager returns my call. Expect PM's within the next few days ppls.. I need to know who can pay up now and who wants plugs.

Thanks RB26 GTS. I'll see how I go giving them a buzz tomorrow.....

Its really not worth the assult charge in an attempt to sort out this dudes attitude... I've grown up with people like this and a slap across the head doesn't do anything. If only I was under 18 I would only receive a slap across the wrist.

Of coarse the rb25 is a better motor. hrmm I wonder how GTR-Ben's S13 Rb30DET is going...

SR is a damn good motor. I found in traffic with the a/c on that 2 x 12" fans pulling with the std 12" fan pushing was not good enough, it was constantly spewing coolant out when stationary and when turning off the car. They 100% need a shroud. If you were to grab some sheet metal bend it up a little, fit 2 x 12" thermos pulling and run soem decent wiring to them I suspect there will be no cooling issues. With the a/c on and these 40+degree days I've noticed she will hit the occasional 100degree's, sometimes slightly over if I'm stuck in traffic then hit a big hill to drive up. Do note that the std temp guage stays on half from around 72degree's right up until 109degree's, only then will it start to creep up. A mate of mine fitted a temp guage to his VLT, suprisingly it runs basically the same temps, often hitting 100degree's.

Just under $50 vs ~$25 for aftermarket.

Replace it.. If its due a major service (water pump, cam belt etc) do the thermostat. But yer check out its condition have a fiddle.

Go the genuine nissan. The nissan one brings engine temps up quicker and holds them more stable. The aftermarket items fly open to wide and to quick causing temp fluctuations. If the car runs under 80degree's (which my experience is the aftermarkets do cause it to do so) then the ecu refers to its cold enrichment table. As a result you use slightly more fuel. Compare the two side by side and the genuine most definitely looks much more meatier and reliable.

I'm just up the road at my oldies place. Cars in the shed ready for the injector swap tomorrow... Sounds like there's a few hoons out tonight. Just heard an RB in the distance give it a little through first then second, sounded quite quick. Not the usual sluggers.

66 Skyline GT, I've seen yours but some time ago, before you were on this board or before I knew of you being on this board. I wouldn't miss the GT, awesome looking car, I remember my old man pointing one out to me when I was around 16, he said.. THose things in their day went like a shower of sh*t. Sure enough he took off sideways through first and second (out of a right hand corner) looked like it went hard anway. Where you took those pics.. I've seen some dude watching as I took off from the lights heading south. I thought it may have been you.

HR-32, I am 99% sure I have seen you down the Moana area on a few occasions. No doubt you would have seen me.. Mines a dead stock looking black R32, tinted windows, hidden bar/plate fmic behind the front bumper. Its been pretty dirty the last few weeks as I've been slack washing it. I saw secret on tap's road around 3:10pm just north of the road works.

Redgtst, I deleted it... You are not allowed to discuss illegal activities. Simple as that. I'll let it go as you obviously don't realise, it should attract a warning if not temporary suspension. We all bugger up from time to time. I'm not innocent either. Please think carefully before you post.

I didn't get much done today with regards to finding out postage etc for JulesS14200 or the afm plugs for every 1 else. How is every one for cash right now?? Please check your name is on the list and post letting me know when you will be able to come through with the $$. If everyone is able to do so now I will get this group buy going asap. If not I will do the usual group buy thing and set a deadline for it to be paid for. All up, 12 airflow meters, 11 people. Hopefully I can squeeze them and include an afm plug for the same $300.