Cubes

The VG30DEt turbo is much quieter... No loud whooshing as it comes on boost yet it runs the same core (comp and turbine wheels) as the rb20det turbo only larger turbine and compressor housing. The other difference is the compressor housing snout is smooth in to the compressor, the rb20 and rb25 turbo's have a slight step in front of the compressor wheel. I assume this causes a little turbulence causing the loud whoosh noise as its building boost.

The turbo for sale in the other thread isn't a R33 series 2 turboa s stated, its a r32 rb20det turbo.

Sorry dude.. Not a R33 RB25 series 2 turbo let alone a R33 Rb25 Series 1 turbo. Its a R32 Rb20DET turbo. Worth..... 150-200

The difference between ulp and 98 is a big mac meal. bugger all. lol

As the old saying goes.. Suck and see.... Try the SAFC, you will be able to easily sell it for similiar money later on.

Madaz, You missed myself.

Has it had a SAFC or the ecu wiring fiddled with at any time? I installed a safc in to mine quite some time ago, upon removing it I connected up the bullet plug, over time this some how developed a bad connection occasionally cutting out. Do a ghost trace of the afm signal, when it cuts quickly check, get some one in the passenger seat or even better your self while some one else drives and monitor all the sensor outputs.

You need a larger wastegate if you are experiencing boost creep. It may be partially due to the manifold design who knows, testing is the only real way to find out.

Believe it or not I found the 2 door easier to slide the baby in and out of the seat in the capsule position. Fitting the seat up to a usual 4 door where you have to lift the baby over the straps that run to the baby anchor is a real pain in the back. In the 2 door you slide him in from the front. Now the seat is positioned upright its located in the center.

If the wastegate were too small then it would creep boost, not loose boost.

Sounds good.. PM me the details.

First up Congrats.. Enjoy it while they sleep, eat and poo. They soon become very demanding, we have found the most stressfull period was just before the bubs begins to crawl. They want to get around but can't so they wiggle, squirm and scream. :S Be sure to set a routine of getting him in to the cot, we made the mistake of letting our little Jordan in our bed when he began teething. Now we are finding it extremely difficult to get him out lol. Having little Jordan is the best thing thats happened to Julie and myself. Its awesome when he wakes up, smiles, gives cuddles and kisses. Such a funny little boy.. The Safe and Sound Compaq fits the R32 well, the only downside compared to the larger seats is you have to spin it around at roughly 9kg's, other safe and sound baby seats you can go up to ~12kg. Not that it poses a problem, 9kg's is damn heavy to slide a baby in to a capsule. Its an awesome seat, nice and soft. The usual safe n' sound capsule's you can hire don't fit the R32 at all. It will be difficult to sell as R33's are pretty much around the asking price, ppls do prefer the R33 look. Unfortunately.

My R32 would occasionally ping on 95ron. No doubt an R33 WOULD be slightly detonating under some circumstances running 95.

300's are ugly, worse than my 32. lol

I think they should go Audi RS6 style on the stagea.. VQ45 Twin Turbo.....

I really like the Stagea with the 34 front.

I indeed have, I used to drive 1hr to travel 20km's in 45degree heat, engine temps up around 92-96degree's amb button temps stated 65 degree's. Tinted windows is what made all the difference, prior the sun would burn you up, you could feel the cold air but the sun was just so damn hot, I now have 99% uv tint allround, no burny from the sun just icy air.

I've owned black and white cars. I can't say one is hotter the other to be honest. When its hot its hot, wind the windows up and turn the a/c on.

So i'm the only one that thinks it looks a little ugly? :S

Does it come with the front yoke? S1 or S2?

Harmless stirring... I think you would be suprised.. a lightly 200rwkw modded rb25det or rb20det really doesn't use much more fuel than standard. As I said.. my little rb20det was making close to 170rwkw, I would give it a flogging for a full tank and would still manage damn close to the 10.6litres per 100km's it would achieve just normal driving.. Normal driving for me back then was always on boost through second up until the speed limit, little bit of loss of traction through second gear as I exit a corner all the way to work at 5:30am in the morning. I've since mellowed a lot and still haven't noticed any real difference in fuel consumption. Providing everything is in good working order there's no reason you shouldn't achieve 10.5-11L per 100km's on a mild rb20 or rb25det. Many do get it yet many also suffer the 250-350km per tank syndrome.. unsure what is wrong with those cars. Some just seem to swallow the juice.

Most off us roll off the throttle quickly, we don't simply jump off it having it completely closed within a couple ms, I had to drop 2 degree's from the 2 load points above the load points used at WOT, around 3000-3500rpm from memory. If I were to change and slap the gears quick i would not experience high knock readings. At first I suspected fuel injectors but it wasn't.

Do a search. I wouldn't be running synthetic straight off the bat. Run a plain mineral oil. Do 2-3 oil/filter changes within 1000km's, I then stuck with a good mineral oil until 10,000km's which was a bit of an overkill, 5000km's is fine. I found the motor stopped using oil around 4500km's, so in my book up until then it wasn't completely run in. Better to be safe than sorry I say. Google will also return some interesting info. I came across an article where I think it was the jap Honda manuals stated not to run synth until 10,000km's, where as the US manuals stated 1000km's. hrmm.. A few basic guidelines.. No in gear deceleration, simply drop it in neutral, especially within the first 100km's. Give it a few rev's anywhere up to 3500rpm with quite a bit of throttle, get some load in to it, possibly wire open the wastegate if the afr's are up shiet creek on boost. Don't load it up for too long Don't sit on a certian rpm point for too long Don't labour the motor Don't let it idle for long periods of time

Your local wrecker.

Just like your initial tune on 15psi.. 200.4rwkw, then 16psi it made 218rwkw. There's much more in the tune than many realise. 18rwkw from 1psi extra one would not think it was usual, goes to show its all in the tune.