Cubes

I've measured up and the el/ef thermo's do indeed fit up, it easily clears the power steer piping. HOWEVER, I recently checked out another R32 that had a rb30det slotted in, that had the radiator sitting noticably closer to the power steer hoses, it also ran a different shroud, mine completely covers the radiator where as his had an opening where the power steer hoses go. So there is differences, unfortunately. :S Only way is to measure up. Slapping a 16" on is a gamble, if you can get it cheap give it a go. Driving around in todays heat I noticed the temperature takes much longer to hit 90degree's in traffic (where amb temps hit 48degrees). Having the car idling the clutch fan drawss stuff all air, turn on the 14" and you can instantly feel so much more air flowing. One big difference is it hardly feels like the a/c is on with regards to power loss, previously after a while I could start to hear the a/c compressor roar a little and the car would feel a little sluggy, now it never roars and a/c is definitely colder, prior it would loose its icy feeling when sitting in traffic for a while.

As I said earlier.. its pretty hard to get it spot on unless you take it for a good road test, which many tuners don't. Even then under some rare circumstances such as brisk hills driving you may find your self using a load point that isn't usually used as a result it may have a slightly higher detonation reading. Its hard to get it spot on. Takes time and tweaking.

I was under the impression the M-Spec bar had the larger dual side air intakes? I.e one large one at the top then a small slit underneath. This is my front bar, August 1992. Fog lights removed due to fmic.

Looks like the RB20e has caused BADR33 to loose touch a little.

Don't forget the fuel economy. Thats what I find so awesome about the RB30DET.. It has so much off idle lunge, more than a ls1. LS1's require a few rev's not to bog down it appears.

Its not plug/wiring issue?

As you come off the throttle it uses load points that have most probably not been tuned, as a result slightly detonating. This is very hard to replicate on the dyno, one good reason the car must be taken for a street run to ensure everything is a.o.k. One easy fix is to rip out 5degree's. If it does it thenyou know she's running a little too much ign. timing in the cells above the cells that wot uses.

BADR33, lmao. So we can get that siiiiik bro pssshhhht sound. lmao.

Dr Drift has been doing it for years. He knows his stuff and he's a jap enthusiast, unlike the only SA ecu chipper who simply doesn't appear to give to sh*ts about jap cars these days. Its all V8's, black jeans and thongs for him.

noise, What would you consider a 'real' family car? Audi RS6? http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/audi_rs6.asp Note the torque figures - 560nm at 1950rpm. Just a pitty about the price. :S

The steps in order I would do it if I had to do it again. Remove front bumper Remove FMIC Remove bonnet latch assembly Remove old fan Pop the top rad hose off Remove fan shroud Remove clutch fan Lift up and push back the radiator chop old plug off wire up new male $2.95 2pin plug from motor mates reverse fan blades wire up new female plug to thermo with reverse polarity cut off top left lug from thermo fan, cut off bottom right lug from thermo fan slide thermo fan up from under neath bolt it up using the usual fibro washers on both sides of the condensor core to prevent the thermofan brackets sinking in to the condensor core and causing it not to sit nice and even all round. Bolt everything back up. I tried getting it in from the top, which I did but then found it too hard to do up the lower bolts, it was also not sitting flat due to the lower lug still existing, then lost bits then decided to pull everything off and start again.

It fits in there perfectly... There is actually a little room to spare with the height but the width there is none due to the bonnet latch. I did have to trim a couple lugs off the thermo fan so I was able to fit in the bonnet latch assembly and diagionally opposite the condensor lower bracket. I mounted it through the condensor core. VL's are done like this from factory. One tip... remove the front bar and fmic.. well worth it and will prevent lots of swearing. Standing at the drivers mirror with the bonnet open, car off but fan running I can feel air blowing on my face from the thermo through the stock shroud. The origional fan I was pushing to feel a little bit of air blowing on my hand if I were to place it in the clutch fan opening of the shroud. I'm happy with it, quiet, no vibrations and blows a lot of air. I really need to fix my slight power steer seep though. :S I'll hook the pfc h/c up tomorrow and check out temps doing the usual southern expressway hill and traffic idles..

Thats the thing Paul... A lot of the ebc's won't hold boost to redline IF the turbo is running near its limit. The EBC MUST be able to learn the duty cycle requried in order to hold the boost you dial in. I used to run a Blitz SBC-iD EBC, it had the usual manual setup which uses a fixed duty cycle and gain. Then there was the auto where it used a fixed gain but would learn the duty cycle required through the whole rpm in order to hold say 15psi. The Blitz SBC-iD has a little picture of the dual solanoid and what its doing, half open fully open or closed etc. As RPM increased you could see the solanoid go from almost all the way open at peak torque then from then on it would slowly close holding the dialed in boost all the way to redline. Selecting manual mode and dialing in a fixed duty and gain which is the basis of how the majority of EBC's (HKS, the lower spec Blitz items and a few others) work boost would tail off at high rpm. Run a big turbo that won't have flow issues on your motor on you don't need such an ebc, the manual types will do just fine. My Blitz SBC-iD in auto mode did have a few issues with spiking as the AVCR also has IF not setup correctly. It has to be setup on a dyno in fourth gear taken from low rpm all the way to redline, this can't be done on the street for obvious speed restriction reasons. Set it up in second or third as I attempted and it would occasionally spike when jumping on the throttle around peak torque or when loading it up from low rpm. I've had a little play and monitored bl4ck32's boost curve, I was very much impressed with the stability and lack of even the slightest spike. The only reason to grab an AVCR over the PFC EBC is the extra features of the avcr, they both work exactly the same way, not one will hold or build boost better than the other. It is definitely worth while when running a decent 250+rwkw IF you are having a few issues with traction and have already sorted suspension/tyres. So as with everything.. its all in the setup/tune.

Who cares... One is a family performance car, the other is a sports performance car. The fact is Ford nor Holden make anything where you can compare apples to apples. Comparing Nissan to Holden/Ford is like comparing a nice sweet firm orange to a bitter lemon. hehe.

If you own a jap car the next most popular comment is..... "Do you drift it?"

The Falcon isn't supposed to be in its league. Its a family car designed for us Australian lead foots that also want to tow their boat/trailer, the GTR is a performance sport car. In many respects its very similiar to how I think about young blokes that spend a heap on buying lancers/hyundai's/barina's then throwing wheels, lowering and exhaust. When they could have had a R32 or S13 for that price that goes a hell of a lot harder. Not that the lancers etc do go hard.. lol

Remove the center box while your replacing the master cylinder. Bend the line from the master cyl back on its self so it connects directly to the rubber slave cyl line. I found pedal feel to be much better with a ceramic clutch, I am now able to slip it and have more control over fine movements. Prior it felt I was a blind man. Bleeding is also much easier.

I would bother with a Turbo Falcon when I have my own house and several (lol) kids. Then... Have a nice little cheap 32 GTST or by then R34 GTST (as it will be old) and run it as a track car.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-14-THERMO-ELECT...1QQcmdZViewItem You can pick up the supercrap cheapy's with the straight blades for roughly the same price, I went this one due to its specs.. 2300cfm is a lot of air. I'm about to finish it off and take it for a spin. The fan is very quiet, has a nice whoosh sound not a horrid buzz that many do.

The RB20DET's are tough motors. I had thermo'f fitted as I was going to run FMIC piping through the engine bay. The silly mechanic fitted 2 x 12" davis fans directly on to the core. They didn't flow enough air over enough of the core, resulting in overheating in summer (30+degree days). It just happened that my dash coolant temp sensor buggered up so normal operating temp (half) was reading as just above C to 1/4. In traffic temps would increase to around half to 3/4. I was wondering why coolant was blowing out of the overflow and the car was pinging easily. I drove it like this for a whole summer, I had the rad cleaned etc made no difference. I was told it was a head gasket. I replaced the temp sensor at the end of summer and discovered that when the temp guage was hitting 1/2 it was actually sitting on the H and maxing out the guage, that being around 110+ degree's. As soon as I would hit the a/c and any kind of traffic it would creep over 1/2 so god knows what temp the coolant was. It was enough to boil it with a 50/50 mix so no doubt it was up around 124+ degree's, it also blew a coolant hose. I then drove it for another 60,000km's or so still with perfect compression and no ill sideaffects. Damn tough motors the RB20DET's, the overheating saga and not blowing up on me definitely earned my respect for the buggers. The motor was still fine the day I pulled it out to slot in the rb30det.

Its all about the driving experience. You can have 2 cars with the similiar 0-100 performance yet one is so much more rewarding and enjoyable to drive. I recently found this with my uncles VT II 250kw Clubsport 6speed. Punched it out of a corner and it did nothing, just winds out, need some more rev's I say... 3500rpm.. punched it.. nothing, just winds out. It felt like a slow torquey diesel rever. A few revs off the line, lots of wheel spin but you can watch the revs increase over a second and a half before it hits the rev limiter, theres no super quick engine response, just slow torque reving. Jumped in mine, exiting corners in second give it 1/4 throttle and the turbo ramps up hard, tyres loose traction as the motor bounces off the rev limiter in a blink of the eye.... A few revs off the line, same thing straight to the rev limiter before you can blink an eye. I so much more enjoy mine to drive from a sports/hills type of car. It feels just so much more flexible with more mid range acceleration that launches it out of corners unlike the ls1 where it simply wound out and only in the top end did it rush a little. The LS1 felt as if it had a nice lump of torque at ~2000rpm that then faded off a little until ~3500rpm where it began picking up again. It just didn't hold me in the seat... almost fell asleep waiting for it to rev out in first gear. The gearing always seemed to drop you in and around the torque hole of 3000rpm. I'm keen to see what the edit and exhaust do to it, its currently making 196rwkw. Driving experience.

I'd have to place my vote with the S13. CA18DET, exhaust bit of boost maybe an safc. Plenty quick for a first car.

Exactly why I said the majority... Dr Drift is cheap but he isn't in SA.

It really depends where you are as the majority of 'chippers' charge $800 odd for the initial. SAFC can be picked up second hand around the place for $200 to $300. SAFC tune.. 1hr dyno time $140 or so worth.

Run it super rich (highly unlikely) and egt's will go high. I shouldnt hav included it really as we won't see rich conditions as such. No idea what afr that would be at as its theory. Google EGT's... Quite interesting.