Cubes

I'll see if I can track another down for the price I paid, just for u Deluxe.

I found the map to be pretty spot on, I still haven't touched the light and moderate load area's. Was a little rich at wot early in the rpm but nothing major.

Carl wants 500rwhp... Thats around 600hp at the fly. For any motor its going to need rods and pistons. The larger motor will always last longer than the smaller and be more reliable as it won't need to spin as hard to make the same power.

It won't with a decent ebc, one that automatically sets duty cycle to suit the target boost pressure. i.e you dial in you want 15psi, the ebc does the rest.

EDIT: Ignore me..

Emanage if you run an auto. If your making some decent scary hairy arsed power the auto will be a full manual so I would even then still drop a pfc in it.

I'm grabbing Corky Bell's Maximum Boost book and going to have a good solid read. Its too hard to learn what you need to learn via google. Just when you think you understand whats going on you realise your back at step one.

Thats all I do... Pull 7degree's ign. when I drop ULP in it. The pfc has 4 boost settings that are selectable.

More cubes via RB26 rods and crank is the only way you are going to make it possibly reliable.. It will need too many rev's and boost to make ~600hp at the fly with only 2ltrs and 7.8rpm. Do the airflow calcs you will see what I mean. 500whp is 373rwkw... Good luck reaching and maintaining it if you stick with the 2ltr.

Paul, Your analogy is very poor. Using a boost controller to control traction in a high power car IS extremely usefull. Especially in second gear where you don't need 300+rwkw. The other option is to step up a turbine a/r size. Given the smaller a/r provides enough flow for the target power I would much rather have the option of using an EBC to control boost level in different gears. ESPECIALLY with a RB30DET that has such an insane hitting mid range traction is an issue. A good condition R32/R33/R34 shouldn't have issues with wheel spin until over 250rwkw. Unless your a fag and running razor blades on stock black rims. Mine had wheelspin issues at 176rwkw.. Stuffed subframe bushes + a loose VLSD + the 3ltr doesn't help. The 2.5ltrs come on and ramp up to peak power so much smoother than the 3ltrs. Comparing dyno sheets at the last dyno day illustrates this.

That would throw the tune out even furthur. Not being picky about numbers the higher the pressure the more heated the air is, resulting in less dense air + closer to the edge of detonation. Less ign. will have to be run on the higher boost resulting in less than optimal ign timing for the lower boost levels.

Its impossible to tune to every psi. Its basically a blanket tune. The AFR's are fairly close.

Grab some thinish sheet metal and cut it to suit the rear mufflers flange. Drill some largish holes and slip it inbetween the two flanges. Should make it nice and quiet. Dont boot it.

Go somewhere else... Any decent aircon place knows there are many jap wreckers around, all it takes is 2 phone calls, one to the wrecker and one to the courier. If they can't be stuffed doing this I wouldn't want them working on my car thats for sure.

To remap a std ecu that has never been mapped before its always a little more pricey as they have to remove the ecu, open it up and do a little soldering. I was quoted $800 for the initial tune then $500 there after for following tunes. I then considered the PFC as I picked mine up for $1100 inc. postage inc. the hand controller. The initial WOT tune cost me $100 as the base map light/moderate load ran fine. I am soon to hit the dyno again due to a slightly larger turbo and injectors then no doubt mid way through the year when an even larger turbo is bolted on. Why waste money on a remap when you know you will be requiring the pfc in the long run. The PFC and its knock display is well worth the extra $$ when a stock engine with the stock turbo is tuned to its limit. I've had one batch of Mobil fuel that made it ping, the dash light flashed I jumped off it straight away. With the stock ecu you don't have this protection, especially at high rpm as the ecu ignores the knock sensors over ~4000-4500rpm. If its an auto its a completely different kettle of fish.

As you approach the higher load points the resolution becomes less.... As a result running a lower boost level that still uses the same load point will cause the afrs to be richer. For example.. My Rb30DET running the vg30det turbo at 9-10psi uses the same load point as when its at 13psi. Which is one benifit of the more expensive ecu's such as the Motec's and Autotronics.. More load points = finer tuning.

wow.. The VP's were quite a bit more heavier on fuel than the VS 5ltrs. My VS before the ecu and cam would get around 450km's to a tank, after the ecu and cam it was pretty much the same. On the open road it would crack 650km's per tank easily. I can't remember exactly how big the tank was in it but at the time it used to cost a lot to fill at .59c per litre.

The PFC ebc is good (varied duty cycle throughout the rpm to hold the target boost pressure), UNLESS your making silly amounts of power.. The use of an AVCR where you can have different boost levels in different gears is usefull to prevent wheel spin in the lower gears.

Its not meant to move freely... I suspect the spring has came loose. Remove the screws and hook the spring back up.

Check to see if its flopping around?

Did you pull it apart and ensure the spring was connected? I set my pfc idle by doing the following.... Plug in the pfc.. Disconnect the AAC plug. Adjust idle to as close as possible to the value within the pfc for a/c off. Connect the aac plug. init the pfc. Send it through its learn process... Perfect idle. Be sure the TPS is set to ~.46v

Mine used to be very loud sucking air also. Nothing to worry about.

Coolant should start boiling at around 120degree's providing the system is holding pressure (no leaks) and the correct coolant mix/ratio has been used. Its the oil temp at these coolant temps that is the worry. :S Check the fan's viscous clutch. Chances are its stuffed. If its not check the thermostat then radiator. Providing your running decent coolant with the correct mix it shouldn't boil until around 120degree's. Its the high oil temp that follows the high coolant temp that is the worry. A couple ways you can test the fan. When stone cold... star the car.. you should hear the fan roar for 15seconds or so. If it doesn't then its stuffed. Once warm... Pop the bonnet then turn the car off while you watch the fan spin.. As the motor stops the fan should follow, it should not continue spinning freely. If it does then its stuffed. I have noticed with mine it appears the car disengages the a/c once engine temps get too high. Unsure if its just a coincidence or if its really the case. Mine appears to do this when I've had cooling issues in the past. Mine often hits 90degree's with the a/c on in traffic on a hot day. The genuine thermostates make the car run a little warmer. Aftermarket items (from supercrap and the like) open earlier and wider causing the car to no longer reach operating temp within 2km's and also it never really hits the 'correct' operating temp, being ~82-85degree's. 85degree's is apparently the optimal temp for fuel economy. I'm in the process of dropping a nice 14" thermo fan in front of the A/C condensor to replace the std 12". Should help on those hot days sitting in a traffic jam as the stock fan draws stuff all air at 800rpm. The proflow thermo's from Ebay are cheap and work well. Flow more than the davis. On these hot days I've also noticed the pwr steer gets a little heavy and fluid appears to blow out the top of the reservoir a little, looks like a slight seep around the edge of the cap. The answer is to fit a power steering cooler. easy done many aus cars have them for this reason. Head to the local track and you will find the pwr steer fluid appears to boil over, some I know of have placed a sock over it to prevent too much fluid going everywhere.

Here we go.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...l=air+regulator

Nothing to do with the tps. On the R32's its located below the throttle body on top of the inlet manifold... Has two hoses going in to it... On cold idle it opens up raising the rpm. Sometimes the spring flicks off and it stays open all the time holding rpm up even when warm.